ssh

It's going to depend on what type of battery you decide to use, if your willing to even use one. Also depends if you think you might upgrade your substage to a bigger, louder setup in the future. If so, get the amp with the power you'll use in the future and gain down for the time being. Now if your going to install the sa12s in a few months, aren't going to be upgrading anytime soon, and just want an amp that powers the sa12s decently without having to do major electrical upgrades then I would do the following: I would look for a used sae-1000d or sax-1200d, and get something like a xspower d1200. Both these amps will easily pull enough current to have bad voltage drop, but between the d1200 and possibly gaining down a little, you should be good. I'm only suggesting the sundown amps because I've personally used them and haven't had any problems. Same goes for xs power batteries. Kinetiks or dekas would work too, not sure which model. I don't have any experience with the hifonics and haven't heard anything great about them, so I'd stay away. If you don't want to use any extra batteries then I would look for an amp that does around 500watts (fuse rating less then 50amps)

What about the 2200D for the SAs What part of "do as little electrical upgrades as possible" do you not understand? "But if it would be absolutely worth it i would do it for the 1700." The AQ probably draws about the same current as the Hifonics because the BRZ is so damn inefficient. The only extra upgrade I would consider would be a small battery in the back (the big 3 was implied) If you're going to criticize me, atleast make sure you make a legitimate point please. AQ suggests an external 200amp fuse for the 2200d. The Hifonics BRZ1700.1D has 160amp fuse, and the Hifonics BRZ1200.1D has a 140amp fuse. But hey, lets say the AQ is the most efficient amp in the world at 100%, so it only draws 150amps... Stock alt on OPs vehicle (2007 altima) is ~110amps, so at idle maybe 50amps After ecu and computer draw, lights, dash and cluster, ac, you got what 20amps excess at max? at idle, eh... A small battery isn't going to do shit. OP needs to use a lot less power.

What about the 2200D for the SAs What part of "do as little electrical upgrades as possible" do you not understand?

Only played it on my computer speakers, must be super low since they didn't show any hint of bass I'll have to play it in my pops truck to test it.

Where else could you possibly find such awesomeness?

Pm it to duran and I pretty please

Can you post links to your tron and pink floyd remixes

Not trying to rain on anyone's parade but in order for midbass to work, you need the drivers spaced apart, meaning putting them together in the center console will have far far less output then if they were in the doors. It won't work like a sub driver in a center console enclosure because midbass frequencies act differently then subbass. I know that's pretty vague and non informative, let me try to dig up an old post and give you a better response. Whatcha gonna cross them over at? Found it: stefanhinote, on 28 June 2010 - 09:33 PM, said: Not to threadjack but it's related, How important is the position/placement of midbass drivers? Can they be put in small sealed enclosures behind the driver and passenger seats? -Impious

I got a 230xp series alt with a case to fit a 4.0L 1997 jeep wrangler, I have someone interested in buying it but they have a 1998 dodge durango with a 5.2L. Will it directly bolt on? If not, how much are case swaps? Thanks, Stefan

Haha thanks, there is literally no space for another alt tho. Ill post pics of the engine bay later

It could have been settled before it was started. Until the next time. . . . Hey, at least it was quick and easy for the customer.

I haven't placed it in the classifieds section, although that is a thought. I did however make a post pretty much saying "Hey if anyone needs a high output for their jeep check this out, had the info on mine and price and what not." People went ape shit on me for the following: price (absurd), or that I didn't know what I was doing and I didn't need it. People tried telling me I needed a cap or extra battery to stop my dimming lights. (I never mentioned buying the alt for dimming lights...) Another guy tried telling me all I needed to do was upgrade my wiring, he said my amp couldn't of been pulling that much current considering my wiring was "8gauge" So yeah it drove me nuts, I had to rant and correct everything everyone said. wire is already upgraded. Wire is 0/1gauge not 8gauge. I don't have dimming lights. Yes the amp does pull 150amps at full tilt. Yes the alt is pricey, but it's not the same as your so called 200amp alt you bought for 200bucks on ebay. The same guy that told me I needed to upgrade my wiring and that I did everything wrong also told me "I bet you think a 15" is louder then 2 12"s huh". I was like wtf, your random as hell, and a pair of 12s have more cone area so GTFO. So yeah, really pissed me off but it's worth a shot

hehe

I already have a DC Alt, cheaper for me to send it in and get a case swap then a whole new alt. Just gotta wait til they get their cnc machines, make a case for my vehicle, ship mine in, get new one back. They said they could probably make the case in 3-4months, and you know there slow as hell, so I'm figuring I'll have it in hands in say 6 months? So unless someone wants to buy my 230xp alt for a reasonable price... Good luck!!! With my setup using two D3400 and my stock [email protected] alternator I am able to keep my voltage above ~13.5v with ~1800wrms on music on my 25 minute daily commute to and from work. Definitely not ideal but it works for now until I get my Mechman alternator in a week or so. I use a XS Power charger 1-2 times a week to help keep the batteries in good condition. If you set your gains to match the available electrical supply from you vehicle you should be able to enjoy your system until you get a higher output alternator. I highly recommend the XS Power 12v charger. If you have the funds get a Mechman alternator and hold onto the DC Power alternator until it sells. Or(!) get the Mechman run it at 14.4v for now. When or if DC Power starts making a product you can then use the DC Power alternator at 14.4v then run the Mechman at 16v!!!! Mechman alternators come with adjustable regulators, this is not an extra cost. To get a dual alternator bracket you can contact either a local fabrication shop or one of the popular manufacturers of dual brackets. There is no way a dual bracket will fit my car. I plan on gaining down a LOT, probably going to set it to where current draw is ~50amps max, so ~500watts total. Not ideal, but it'll keep the xs batt from constantly draining. Don't have the funds for a mechman alt, so it's just a waiting game on the dc, unless it sells, guess I could relist the alt.

Dash area is sweet!

I'm just fucking with ya, chill out man

My clothes don't suffocate me, but they aren't baggy either Just tight enough to show off your muscles right?

Oh yeah no big deal or anything. Fucking Intense! I'm digging the dash and doors, any more pics of'm? Tuned into your build And just for kicks, I'm guessing a bunch of sa15s.

I already have a DC Alt, cheaper for me to send it in and get a case swap then a whole new alt. Just gotta wait til they get their cnc machines, make a case for my vehicle, ship mine in, get new one back. They said they could probably make the case in 3-4months, and you know there slow as hell, so I'm figuring I'll have it in hands in say 6 months? So unless someone wants to buy my 230xp alt for a reasonable price...

Nah man, just gotta find the other thread to find the humor.

YES! I haven't seen that pic in years...

Don't worry about it man, your not the only one.

I know right,

Thanks, it should help out a little bit until I can replace the shit stock alt