ssh

Might be driving the amp into clipping, considering the drivers are rated for 600watts and your using 150, perhaps you kept turning the gain up to get some more excursion and output, and it's clipping like crazy. I would pull the drivers out of the enclosure, and play each driver by it's self in free air and looking for anything loose / any noise. (Remember their power handling will drop tons when there in free air, so don't have the volume turned up a ton. Sealed box? Ported? Do any of the enclosure panels flex a lot, any gaps in between panels, air leaks?

it currently charges@ 14.4 Ahh, well I would wait until Robbie or someone from DC responds, send it back and have them do it, or wait for further instructions from them about doing it yourself.

Not sure if your dc alt is set to 15.5v or 18v, but I'm guessing it's internally regulated? I'd talk to dc about it, first.

Hey, welcome to the forum. I believe Iced on here has a dodge ram and pretty big, sick build going on. Lets of others

ummmmm, nice wiring?

Good deal right here Personally I'd go with more cone area, dcons... That is if you have the space for them.

Just because you end up using more drivers doesn't mean you need more amps... you don't need to give it near rms for it to "work properly"... Coulda kept your xcon and gotten a few more and probably get beat your goal if done right...

What amp were you going to use? Do you have any space constraints?

No. You need the ho alt and more batteries.

Yeah I may upgrade HU's since mine is the most basic alpine. Or just throw in an eq and stick with my cde-102. I'll try to record as much information about them as I can, and log any differences from day one to after a couple weeks. I'm kinda picky about tweeters too, so well see

This should make some people very very happy!

No, but the F6 isn't at all a bad driver. The crossovers at least look "reasonable", I know nothing about the tweeter or where they are sourcing it but wouldn't be surprised if for the money it is a great set. I was just searching through madisound, figured a lot of stuff they carry was decent, saw that and "looked nice", and fits my budget I'm going to reattempt glassing my doors in a few weeks, hopefully they'll come out decent and have those jamming

I was about to comment "Ha, I see what you did there!" Then I scrolled down and read the rest

With that amount of cone area, it should be loud, even if it was sony xplods... or the most pristine SQ based driver

There is no difference between the 10" and 12", except cone size, which would also dictate proper enclosure volume. So basically, his point is contradictory in regards to it being a inefficient driver at 10" but good at 12"

I don't trust any program. How much power do you have? even calc.exe?

I'm not saying yay or nay. I just want to know what you mean by comparing your "old school" a/b design amp to the amps nowadays. Your giving the impression that it was rated differently back then, that perhaps instead of 45watts or whatever, that it was more. and/or That your class a/b amp was super efficient, but even so, that's still only 45watts or so. And obviously installation, enclosure, and vehicle will play a HUGE role, but you mentioned your old school amp as if it was something special, or more that meets the eye. Not trying to be a dick, just want to know what you were implying or meant. ^Posted after last response, as Phi said, how underrated was it, how much could you really get out of it? 500watts? 1000watts? Your original post didn't exactly help the OP if you state you did it with 50watts, but now it's really more, lol

On the Audio Control? lol B&K Bro ... legal, in the record books ... I am forced to call BS on that. 45 watts rms and a sealed box does 50's? How do I do that? Class A/b amp bro ... how old were you in 1992 ?? In 92 I was 0 for most the year. I just want the secret for a 50 with 45w and a sealed box. When these days it takes 2 beefy ass 12"s, a ported box, and 3k to reach a 50. you just answered you own question bro ... I'm talkin old school and you are referring to new school ... BIG difference ... Sub amp I have now is 50 watts rms and i can do a consistant 137.7 db at 28 htz ... Whats so hard to understand ?? So your saying the technology back then was better then it is now? Or it was rated differently, or since you had a a/b amp that it was more efficient? I'm not following.

On the Audio Control? lol B&K Bro ... legal, in the record books ... I am forced to call BS on that. 45 watts rms and a sealed box does 50's? How do I do that? Class A/b amp bro ... how old were you in 1992 ?? How does an amp type design or his age come into play? I just don't see the correlation?

Hi-Vi f1600, https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_245_318&products_id=8472 Anyone heard'm?

I know extreme vehicles with zero flex can have some insane numbers with low wattage... But I don't think his truck has bulletproof type glass, reinforced steel, and bolted shut doors?

I've personally owned and used icons, I loved them. Sound quality was awesome, yet still got loud. I'm currently doing a new build and actually wanted to use some icons but there out of stock, so I ended up going with xcons... I've never heard any sa12s, just held one once

This build is awesome! I absolutely love your doors. I recently tried doing some fiberglassing, Didn't end up very good But after seeing yours, gives me some more motivation to take my time and try again

Since your just stating this vs that, I say icons. Better power handling, sound very good. And asking for videos shouldn't aid in your decision in ANY way. Seeing if someones door flexes a lot, doesn't mean it's going to be a louder driver... Any way, I just do happen to have some videos of icons playing...

Hits by a lot, actual baffle hits so I can't just trim it. I'm gonna redo both doors in a few weeks when I'm not burnt out.