ssh

Perhaps interchange ports?

Just ship your door to Fi car audio's address...

Yeah I've seen those, I just figure the amount spent for one, could pay for more sound deadener and bracing material I think I'll just keep a log of everything I've done, and dates and meter results from all attended shows. Depending on show dates and after I get a new alt in, I may shoot you a pm, thanks

Thanks for posting. Yep hatchback. I know sound deadening won't be a audible increase or decrease in output, but perhaps roof, door, quarter panels, hatch area, and pillar bracing could be noticeable. Bracing would entail steel strips, wood, epoxy, and expanding foam. But it would all be under the plastic panels, so aesthetically you couldn't tell the difference between stock and it. Wish I had a tl or spl meter to record my results

Sounds pretty serious, as if the 4500d wasn't enough

That is some Insane flex. So worth the wait Your wiper doing the tango. Just imagining the amount of force that's pushing the doors in and out, unbelievable.

Cool cool, glad you like your subwoofer I've heard similar stuff

Well the links I posted, had 2 kicker 12" L7's in a kicker box, 2 or 4 ohm, they are priced right under $500 New. This is why I asked about them, also 12" L7's are rated at 750rms each. That makes a combined total of 1500rms watts needed in an amp. As for the big 3 upgrade, I plan on putting more money into my system as time goes on like I said, I am starting a new job monday that is stable and pays well. I think I will go with new, less issues to worry about + having a warranty is always nice Sorry I didn't see that link, I must be looking at some different kicker drivers or something, I'm actually off on a lot of things today, too much stuff lol. I would definitely get the right equipment the first time, and slowly upgrade electrical as you can afford it, as opposed to switching drivers and amps several months down the road. I think I'll revisit your thread tomorrow when I have a clear head.

L7s have a higher power handling then fi ssds but your going to be hard pressed trying to find an amp that does rated for the l7s and within your budget. Ill edit my post later. I have to run out the door Okay so, depending on year of L7s, or new or used, you could spend anywhere from what $300 to 400 per driver, thats your whole budget. Their rated for 1500watts, so you'd want to give them 3000watts. Your not going to be able to afford a true 3000watt amp, two l7s within your budget, much less any electrical upgrades (that would be needed to sustain 3kw). SSA Icons are great, but out of stock. Fi BLs are sorta outta your budget, starting around 300 per driver, and shipping... I was talking about fi ssds earlier, but forgot their redoing them too, just like the icons... Would you buy used, or possibly find new drivers for sale from forum members? On stock electrical I wouldn't try running anything bigger then a 1500watt amp, even 1500watts is pushing it, but it would give you some headroom for future upgrades.

I think for your budget you could do better. Are you set on kicker l7s?

I took the liberty to edit your post a little to reflect the real reasons for such a bastard fastener. lol. Everything is coming together reall nice. Going to be a very tidy install when your done. So true

Wonder if he applied pressure to different panels through out the vehicle / held a piece of plywood in the cabin at different positions / angles, if the noise would lessen. Kinda shooting in the dark at this point, at least with my experience.

What's your voltage at full tilt with the ap30001d?

L7s sound fine, but they are pricey... What's your budget for subs, amp, and possibly upgraded electrical?

Sweet! Firstly, should I be keeping my xp alt, or sell it and use money for new alt from you? Secondly, the car idles at like 700rpm and cruising down the road at 1500-2000rpm, so it would be a big plus if the alt made its max power around those figures, and not 4000 engine rpm. Thanks, very excited!

This is quite ironic for me, For those that don't know, I have a xp series alt but it's for my old vehicle. So I've been in the market for an alt for my new car, unfortunately my volvo is not popular and not vary many, if any, companies make a high output alt for it. So I've been hanging on to the dc alt, waiting until they can possibly make something for my car in the future. My dad knows my situation, he tells me "why don't you see who else makes alts and see if they can make something for your car, instead of waiting". I just tell him that no one else has anything for my car, and dc makes the best stuff. So the other day he's watching west coast customs, and on the episode there putting a high output alt in a vehicle, my dad calls me over and says something along the lines of "hey west coast customs just put a fancy high output alt in this car. I didn't catch the name, but you should try and find out who makes it." And now I know, it was DC Power.

You do, were just a little far apart.Awesome Alt by the way!! Thanks, haha just a tad Always good to know people across the state though, never know Good deal

Sweet, wish I had friends with shops

May wanna drill some holes at the ends of the crack, so it stops its from spreading. Then do as above (welding) If you don't have access and are going to use jb weld or sandwich the metal with other panels and silicone, I would definitely recommend drilling holes at the ends of the crack.

Me either

Happy Birthday Impious

Not sure what slopes are used on your amp and headunit, guessing 24dB... Any way, if the lpf on the head unit was set to 100hz then it was reducing the amplitude of anything higher then 100hz being sent to the subwoofer. Then your amp's lpf was set to 80hz and was reducing the amplitude of anything higher then 80hz. So between the two crossovers, the subwoofer would mainly be playing 80hz and below. So hu lpf at 100hz and amp lpf at 80hz Does Not mean 180hz... But if the lpf on the amp was set much higher then 80hz then it would have made the subwoofer play midbass frequencies, and this could of made it sound bad.

Shoot an email to [email protected] about it. Mike is taking care of this, and sundown just posted it.

Perhaps, but that wouldn't explain why his previous drivers were WAY louder with the same gain setting, unless they were wired differently...

2 3500s 45000ds would be impressive amps, period.