ssh

Does your rf amp have a phase dial or switch? I doubt it'll make any difference, but worth a shot Doesn't sound right about it unloading, fixed ssf at like 28hz, and box is tuned to a couple hertz above that. hmm

http://www.youtube.com/user/ford302redneck

Your not skimping, that "500watts" likely won't be audible, and even so, its just a rating, doesn't mean it needs 2000watts to get loud. And as above suggested, DC Power makes some killer alternators

He also has the hatch and door open.

Hook up the dmm to what your measuring. Write down voltage with car off. Write down voltage with car off and stereo at full tilt. write down voltage with car idling. Write down voltage with car idling and stereo at full tilt. Compare voltage differences.

Nope.

Yep yep. Pretty much summed up

Sounds like a good day, happy belated birthday man

x2 If your willing, that would be very appreciated.

Really happy you posted some more work, everything came out looking like stock panels, I love it. I also saw marks door panels you did for all the aa mids, epic! I occasionally stop by the fiberglass forums and check out your section.

I was simply stating my case, just an example. And I live in Tucson az, about 120miles or so south of phx, it gets hot. Just getting in the car, everything is hot, including amp heatsink. But after driving around with AC on and my amp at full tilt for 45 minutes, it's barely warm. (cooler then ambient) And with cooler weather and regular listening it's cool to the touch.

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good. And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad. This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing. I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades. What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.) with low voltage my saz1500d was very hot. After installing a dc power alt, my saz1500d was cool to the touch. Not hard to believe.

Never used them, but I do know xs power batteries are very very good. I'd save up for one if it was me.

I'll add to this, since it's concerning a dc alt On completely stock electrical, I ran a saz1500d with gain set pretty low so there would be less current draw. Amp could still manage to drop my voltage down 11s. The heatsink of the amp was pretty hot. Installed a DC Alt, set gain higher on amp, no bad voltage drop, the headsink of amp was almost cold to the touch.

Biggest xs power battery you can fit / afford.

I have to get the timing belt and tensioner replaced on my car, not the same as your case, but similar feeling. Good luck man

You said the drivers look like there at full excursion right?

Cool pics, place looks nice

The car is a monster. Without a doubt. I mean look at the hairtrick video, best evidence that it sounds good Well yeah. Air flow = output = sounds good = sq. It's pretty much a true sq vehicle. They used so many drivers so they would stay far away from full excursion, less distortion.

It feels good, I promise. And as Duran stated, you can use notecards as shims for centering the coil. Make sure you get everything super clean and free of the old glue.

I've been in several vehicles doing low 40s and none had that much flex. Either your headliner and windshield move very easily or your idea of low 40s is different Is there anywhere / anyone near you where you can get metered?

Well the dcon fits the budget, as far as sealed or ported, can't really go wrong either way. I know that my last two setups were ported and they still were awesome playing rock, just wasn't sure if he would prefer the sealed type. I wouldn't be worried too much about hearing the lower end, it'll be felt more then anything, if you know what I mean, but yeah ported will give more output overall as long as volume is appropriate. Honestly though, sounds like you know what your doing. I've never heard any sundown drivers, so I can't really comment on their sq, but they are proven to get loud!

Don't bother, caps can't store enough power to help anything. Theyll just constantly discharge and put more stress on your batteries and alt.

Sealed boxes always sound tighter or snappier to me, perhaps punchy was the wrong word to use. A sealed enclosure would give the flatest response

Sealed or Ported Dcon would be nice. Sealed would give nice punchy feeling.