ssh

Physics Can't 1500 watts at 1 ohm just be 1500 watts at 1 ohm! How fun it is to dream.... In all honesty, this is how it is, there is no circumventing, there is no good reason for worrying about it unless you are competing seriously. If so then you already know all about impedance rise and enclosure volumes, their correlation, tuning for peak frequency, burp boxes, driver & port positioning, cabin gain, and how to put it all together...

Let's say a magical amplifier was 100% efficient, meaning it didn't lose any power to heat, etc. At 14.0v it would require 107amperes to produce 1498watts. There is no way for an amp to produce more power then the amperage and voltage it's being ran on. And most amps are measured at higher frequencies and higher ohm loads then what they'll actually be used for. At least in your case. Saz1500d for example, Efficiency : 86% @ 4 ohm, at 100Hz. You'll likely have it crossed a fair amount lower, it'll be playing frequencies even lower, and your probably going to wire down to 1ohm, so your real world efficiency is going to drop. Now let me blow your mind, there's this thing called impedance rise, and well, once you start playing music, tones, what ever, the voicecoils on the driver will heat up and the impedance will rise a fair amount. Meaning you'll never really see 1500watts, at least for very long. Oh and music is dynamic unlike a sine wave, so even impedance rise thrown to the side, you'll never have a constant 1500watts to your drivers (not even close). Don't forget that for the most post, speakers are very inefficient in terms of power. IIRC, 90%+ of power applied to a speaker is transferred into heat, and the small remaining percentage actually produces output. And that sound is on a logarithmic scale, not linear. In a perfect world, it would take twice the original power to increase output by 3dB.

Only advice I can say is, don't think your the shit because your stereo is louder then everyone else's and blast your music in the school parking lot, or it'll likely be stolen awfully soon. Sundown amps are efficient, but nothing special. There is no way to magically make power, it must come from somewhere (alternator and batteries).

I wish I could get a demo of this *calls his local police department*, except the bastards write me a ticket after I demo mine...

Are there gaps large enough you can see light through? Is it air tight? Really depends how straight / crooked the edges are. Silicone and wood glue can help, but only so far... Got any pictures?

Yeah man not very far

I don't believe I've seen that part of the grand canyon, picture is sweet, like an hdr.

Do they list what frequency or frequency range their using?

Hahahaha

Smoother interior, better airflow. If done right, you can generally gain a tenth or so on a TL. Not really worth it unless doing serious competing and need that little extra

Great write up, appreciate the time you spent doing it, and the donations of wire others sent you

Ay, ya, ya, ay!!!... Hey what's with the modified caulking gun on the steering wheel? Is that to keep the engine revving, or is that the just in case brake? Pretty hard core. It's for when he does a run, he can be outside the vehicle but the engine is being revved.

Ah that's it. Lmao.

Have you clamped your amps and calculated your imp rise? I think you'll be surprised when you do it.

Take a read on here, http://www.bcae1.com/spboxad2.htm May not be an answer but it deals somewhat with the subject.

I thought we came to the conclusion it was 31.2 to 54.1hz?!

I think it will largely depend on how much power that alt can really make.

I have it in my queue on netflix, been meaning to watch it

The dewalt I got was around 80 bucks, could also check harbor freight for a cheap one still gonna help here and there

Well thank you for the new wallpaper, no cops at my house Was that made by banksy the street artist?

So your starting battery and one extra in the rear. Yeah I was thinking: starting battery and 2 in rear. Well your going to be hardpressed. Better hope that 320a alt is legitimate, AND decent idle.

Only one way to find out I would definitely get the alternator and batteries, and the rest of your equipment, if bad voltage drop is present and you don't have the room / money for extra batteries, turn down the gain on the 4500d. Or get a 3000d. Also depends on which batteries your looking at. I would get the biggest batts you can fit / afford.

If properly sealed from the trunk, your cabin volume would drop slightly, thus less room to pressurize, more cabin gain, more output I've always read from quite a few people that when they fired forward, they had a little better sq. Oh and your trunk shouldn't flex like a bitch, no nasty annoying ass trunk rattle LOL, beat me to it... yeah, what he said...... Another thing if you fire forward and seal, you can space it out a few inches from where the rear seats rest in the up position. Then if you have people in the back, just put your seats up and you can still play music (although it may be a bit quieter) and your drivers won't hit the seats. Then when no ones in the back, just have the seats down and let it rip. Best of both worlds if you ask me.