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Sweet, any guess on when the build will start?

Kevin seems like a nice guy lol. I've seen a lot of sketchy stuff from him...

Big part is owner. But a few reputable people I trust have played around with the skars and weren't impressed. I think some people see a shitload of skars in a vehicle and because its loud, they think the drivers are good. Does Kevin even know anything about speakers and amps, or does he just have people for that? I see all these people saying "kevin when are skars amps coming, and comp sets?" Well just gotta see what the buildhouse in china has to say.

In the 6th order it is saddle shaped, which is exactly what I wanted, I calculated the 1/4 wave length frequency, and designed the enclosure response around it. Here is a screen shot: The maroon is the 6th order, aqua is a 4th order BP, green is a 4th order vented. Ah, makes sense. Dontcha have a Mazda hatchback? Definitely interested to see the build No, that P5 with the DCON is just a friend of mine Well what's your n3 going in

Your going to save a lot if you make the door panels yourself, always fun to learn. Personally I would never buy a skar product, wouldn't even use it if it was free.

In the 6th order it is saddle shaped, which is exactly what I wanted, I calculated the 1/4 wave length frequency, and designed the enclosure response around it. Here is a screen shot: The maroon is the 6th order, aqua is a 4th order BP, green is a 4th order vented. Ah, makes sense. Dontcha have a Mazda hatchback? Definitely interested to see the build

Leaving to San Fran in a few hours,

I happened to find it one day. Still trying to make some rainbow tables?

If anyone is interested in using leap, pm me.

Wacky? Not at all if the purpose of the sub fits the design and I'd expect it to in a 6th. Just curious to see how it would compare to a traditional ported enclosure and EQ'd. I shouldn't have said wacky, surprised to see it is all.

Duran, when are you going to have this enclosure done for your n3, seems a wacky route, what did you use to model it winisd, leap? The n3 has a "saddle shaped" frequency graph? Two high spots so to speak? I haven't done any modeling because I have no interest in it, nor do I ever do modeling lol. But hows it look in a standard ported enclosure, then just eq down the high spots for daily, and not eq for a competition? I could very well be full of shit here too

If I had one, I'd use it to wake people up.

When buying a refurb, I don't think they give specifics, but a call to them could explain all. They are very helpfull. This was the responce about my repair: "It had the standard problems, loose output inductor broke legs on a transistor next to it, voltage regulator filter caps had bad solder joints and 15V+ voltage regulator was bad because of it. All fixed up and everything siliconed in place now, way better than it was new." Wow, almost sounds like the build quality was poor to begin with. Your 3kwp is exactly the same as the sundown saz3000D, exact same board, different headsink and case. I know Sefugi's amp wasn't a saz3000d, but I'm sure the parts are similar from one to another. (as why would sundown use cheap parts in one amp and better parts in another? Wouldn't make sense) Just some food for thought.

If I were in your shoes, I'd wait til I had enough cash to go a different route. Or buy used. I've bought a used fi bl and loved it, also bought a pair of used xcons and love them too, no issues.

That amp is like 1100 rms on the sub channel and the birth sheets usually say around 1200-1250. Ive got one in my trunk. Think those subs with that amp can do 150? If so Im keeping my amp If your talking about the Memphis, those amps are quiet nice. But I doubt it will do a 150, not saying its not possible, but sure ain't as easy as buying a probox and 2 12s. I actually see it being difficult to do a 150 with 1200RMS for the most part. As you and many others know very well, every vehicle is different, one setup in vehicle A could only yield 140db verse vehicle B yielding 146db, etc. Seat positioning, vents closed, window / door positioning will all vary the score. But on to my point, I drive a volvo wagon, seems like an easy car to get loud, maybe it is I have a 8.5cuft ported enclosure with 3 6" aeros, 35hz tuning, 2 15" xcons (subs up, ports back), and using a saz3000d gained down on near stock electrical. I clamped about 1200watts total and only managed a 146.7dB at 40hz. So here you have a "hatch back vehicle", notorious for being loud, a fair amount more cone area then 2 12s, just about the same power, and a nice big efficient box, and I didn't get near 150... Living proof right here. And obviously changes to the box could be made in my setup to improve the score, but were not talking about changing anything here when your talking about using a prefab Living proof? I didn't see any. Ok, I'll go into more detail but I didn't think it was actually called for. Take a CRX, which is known for one of the loudest street cars in the USA. Take a 1200RMS rated amp, not clamped, and a probox with whatever cone area you want. And I bet you can't do a 150 legal in dB drag. I never said it wasn't possible, but following exactly what was posted on Craiglist, would be difficult. And that's not changing the key part, the box. And BTW, I've did a 146.4 in a trunk with half the cone area, and 1/4 of the rated power you have. My point was, sometimes it's not as easy as people think it is to break 150. Apparently you couldn't figure that out from my post. Yeah, I totally read it wrong. Glad your sane.

Last two I watched were Casino and Shutter Island. If you haven't already seen Casino for some reason I'd watch that Seen'm both. I need to start eating brownies when I watch movies so I don't remember them.

Maybe your part of the reason many Europeans don't like Americans. Video editing is awesome, truck is super clean!

It won't be a waste, it will come in handy.

That amp is like 1100 rms on the sub channel and the birth sheets usually say around 1200-1250. Ive got one in my trunk. Think those subs with that amp can do 150? If so Im keeping my amp If your talking about the Memphis, those amps are quiet nice. But I doubt it will do a 150, not saying its not possible, but sure ain't as easy as buying a probox and 2 12s. I actually see it being difficult to do a 150 with 1200RMS for the most part. As you and many others know very well, every vehicle is different, one setup in vehicle A could only yield 140db verse vehicle B yielding 146db, etc. Seat positioning, vents closed, window / door positioning will all vary the score. But on to my point, I drive a volvo wagon, seems like an easy car to get loud, maybe it is I have a 8.5cuft ported enclosure with 3 6" aeros, 35hz tuning, 2 15" xcons (subs up, ports back), and using a saz3000d gained down on near stock electrical. I clamped about 1200watts total and only managed a 146.7dB at 40hz. So here you have a "hatch back vehicle", notorious for being loud, a fair amount more cone area then 2 12s, just about the same power, and a nice big efficient box, and I didn't get near 150... Living proof right here. And obviously changes to the box could be made in my setup to improve the score, but were not talking about changing anything here when your talking about using a prefab Living proof? I didn't see any. Ok, I'll go into more detail but I didn't think it was actually called for. Take a CRX, which is known for one of the loudest street cars in the USA. Take a 1200RMS rated amp, not clamped, and a probox with whatever cone area you want. And I bet you can't do a 150 legal in dB drag. I never said it wasn't possible, but following exactly what was posted on Craiglist, would be difficult. And that's not changing the key part, the box. And BTW, I've did a 146.4 in a trunk with half the cone area, and 1/4 of the rated power you have. My point was, sometimes it's not as easy as people think it is to break 150. Apparently you couldn't figure that out from my post.

I'm leaving for san fran tomorrow, not sure when I'll be back / when your leaving, but I'm in vail any ways... Just for kicks, you know of an Antonio on base? He's Hawaiian, rides a cruiser, he's my neighbor. (I know I couldn't be anymore vague but I haven't stalked the guy...

Added the movie to my instant queue, going to go watch now...

I guess if you matched all the settings from one amp to another then you'd be "okay", but personally I wouldn't do it. May find yourself with one driver moving more then the other.

I use to do that, but my new ISP (internet provider) is notorious for being ANTI-everything. And I got use to just streaming everything from netflix, so easy. But now I remember being able to find just about anything on "those forums", downloading from rapidshare, and so forth...

That amp is like 1100 rms on the sub channel and the birth sheets usually say around 1200-1250. Ive got one in my trunk. Think those subs with that amp can do 150? If so Im keeping my amp If your talking about the Memphis, those amps are quiet nice. But I doubt it will do a 150, not saying its not possible, but sure ain't as easy as buying a probox and 2 12s. I actually see it being difficult to do a 150 with 1200RMS for the most part. As you and many others know very well, every vehicle is different, one setup in vehicle A could only yield 140db verse vehicle B yielding 146db, etc. Seat positioning, vents closed, window / door positioning will all vary the score. But on to my point, I drive a volvo wagon, seems like an easy car to get loud, maybe it is I have a 8.5cuft ported enclosure with 3 6" aeros, 35hz tuning, 2 15" xcons (subs up, ports back), and using a saz3000d gained down on near stock electrical. I clamped about 1200watts total and only managed a 146.7dB at 40hz. So here you have a "hatch back vehicle", notorious for being loud, a fair amount more cone area then 2 12s, just about the same power, and a nice big efficient box, and I didn't get near 150... Living proof right here. And obviously changes to the box could be made in my setup to improve the score, but were not talking about changing anything here when your talking about using a prefab

http://netflix.com Pay monthly and you can watch movies online, stream to tv, etc. or have movies mailed to you.