ssh

I know they make an addon for the minidsp that's suppose to combat that when installed in a car. The 9855 only has to two rca output for speakers (front and rear), so I didn't use a tweeter then I suppose that would work. Is there any headunits that are 8 channel with processing? (Since I'll need an additional two for the subwoofers). A-pillars then. I'll look into the peerless you posted. the 9855 has a 3way mode, so you can run fullrange, midbass and sub. just installed it in my bro's car. Alpine PXA-H701 might be able to do 3way plus sub.. not completely sure though Well if I use a driver that plays double duty (full range) then I guess that would work, or I could use a single minidsp. The nice thing about the headunit is changing all the settings instantly, where as the minidsp I would have to be plugging into computer and flashing, but being able to use any crossover points and slopes would be awesome. I need to familiarize myself with the better headunits. I like how those full range tang bands you posted in memphis's thread look. lol. But the pricetag on the peerless you used and liked is nice too!

I know they make an addon for the minidsp that's suppose to combat that when installed in a car. The 9855 only has to two rca output for speakers (front and rear), so I didn't use a tweeter then I suppose that would work. Is there any headunits that are 8 channel with processing? (Since I'll need an additional two for the subwoofers). A-pillars then. I'll look into the peerless you posted.

What did you use for processing and filtering? 2 way or 3 way setup?

No. And changing comp sets isn't the best way to get their either. I asked if it was a bad idea, you said no, but I'm assuming you mean no in general to the whole thing. So if I wanted more midbass, instead of mounting fifty speakers on my door panels, what would you suggest. If I crossover the subwoofers higher then it starts to sound sloppy, not as "tight". Simply put, my goal is more midbass. I have the door, dash, and kick panels to work with. Or maybe I should just look for the speaker with the highest RMS rating and give it as much power as I can before it blows. Instead of pointing the kick panel speakers from opposite sides (ex, speaker on driver side point to passenger, passenger speaker pointed to driver.) if I pointed both speakers to the driver? I haven't read a whole lot on alignments... I see JL has a 6.5" subwoofer, JL Audio 6W3V3-4.......................................... Have you considered going active? Considering all the fabrication work you're able to do a fullrange and a hardcore midbass would be pretty sweet considering your goals. Sean's mentioned the idea before and it seems like it would satisfy your goals. Yes I'm starting to consider to it. I'm thinking about: exodus anarchy http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 sls 6.5 http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers/peerless-830946-sls-6.5-woofer-4-ohm/ then SEAS Prestige 4.4" http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-midrange/seas-prestige-mca12rc-h1304-4.5-coated-paper-midrange/ Legatia L3 HAT http://store.12velectronics.com/products/Legatia-L3-Speaker-Set.html And finally some tweeters if needed. and getting a new amp, some crossover, or maybe a minidsp? I know I'm very strung out and indecisive today, just a bad day for me.

No. And changing comp sets isn't the best way to get their either. I asked if it was a bad idea, you said no, but I'm assuming you mean no in general to the whole thing. So if I wanted more midbass, instead of mounting fifty speakers on my door panels, what would you suggest. If I crossover the subwoofers higher then it starts to sound sloppy, not as "tight". Simply put, my goal is more midbass. I have the door, dash, and kick panels to work with. Or maybe I should just look for the speaker with the highest RMS rating and give it as much power as I can before it blows. Instead of pointing the kick panel speakers from opposite sides (ex, speaker on driver side point to passenger, passenger speaker pointed to driver.) if I pointed both speakers to the driver? I haven't read a whole lot on alignments... I see JL has a 6.5" subwoofer, JL Audio 6W3V3-4.......................................... I installed one of those once, it's a midbass at best, keep in mind it's built to work as a sub. You are better off with an SLS 6.5. My car is aligned selfishly. Both drivers aimed so that they stage the best. Seeing people point speakers at the rear view mirror makes me chuckle You listen with your ears, not with your eyes. I'll look into the peerless, I also forgot that the exodus anarchy 6.5's are being blown out. $65usd a pop. And found a bunch more peerless, scan-speak, and seas prestige 6.5s on madisound... the fun begins, I mine as well just flip a coin.

Someone needs to buy my xcons so I can buy a pair of these!!!!!!

Sun Systems was trying to do that in the 90s I believe. Cloud technology sorta. Of course back then they didn't have mp3s, movies, photos, flash websites with graphics, etc to all be transferred back and forth.

Or when you decide you need to save something or email it to a friend.

No. And changing comp sets isn't the best way to get their either. I asked if it was a bad idea, you said no, but I'm assuming you mean no in general to the whole thing. So if I wanted more midbass, instead of mounting fifty speakers on my door panels, what would you suggest. If I crossover the subwoofers higher then it starts to sound sloppy, not as "tight". Simply put, my goal is more midbass. I have the door, dash, and kick panels to work with. Or maybe I should just look for the speaker with the highest RMS rating and give it as much power as I can before it blows. Instead of pointing the kick panel speakers from opposite sides (ex, speaker on driver side point to passenger, passenger speaker pointed to driver.) if I pointed both speakers to the driver? I haven't read a whole lot on alignments... I see JL has a 6.5" subwoofer, JL Audio 6W3V3-4..........................................

Some use hydraulic crimper. I've always used a vice, then blowtorched the end til it was hot, then pushed the solder right in. Solder melts and fills all the gaps. Then wrap with electrical tape or heat shrink.

Sean, If I wanted more midbass, and I already had 6.5"s in the kickpanels, would it be a bad idea to add another pair of the same 6.5"s into the dash (firing towards windshield). Already planning on replacing my current 6.5" comp set to something nicer, perhaps morel maximo or morel tempo, but I'm feeling like they'll sound much better, but may not have enough "omph". maximos are 125, tempos 240, my budget is basically 250, so I could do the better line in kick panels, or two sets of the lower line (one set in kick panels, other in dash). I've read a bunch of reviews of both sets, raving about the midbass and soft tweeter (I don't want anything harsh).

Anyone ever hear the morel tempo line? Closest place to hear them is 2hours from me, I'm assuming they gotta be better the $100 vibe comp set I have. All the reviews I read online, everyone raved about them.

I saw the outside of the amp and was like damn, it looks just like it, pretty neat. Then saw the interior and holy shit! That's some awesome work

Any updates?

Robbie mentioned you guys got something worked up for the volvo (2002 v40 1.9L 4cyl Turbo 5A). I'm going to get the timing belt replaced on the car pretty soon, just wanted to see if there was any time frame when the cases would be done, maybe I can stretch it out and get the alt installed at the same time Oh and would the new case / alt use the internals from the 230xp (jeep wrangler 4.0 I6) I got now?

As Sean said, I was just posting an example of what 95Honda was talking about.

I wonder what power rating is used in that formula...

example, Port Diameter: 4in Number of Ports: 1 Port Length: 6.48in Port Area Total: 12.57in Tuning: 30hz Enclosure Volume: 4ft^3 Port Diameter: 4in Number of Ports: 4 Port Length Each: 34.7in Port Area Total: 50.27in Tuning: 30hz Enclosure Volume: 4ft^3

WIN.

Dude just chill out, everyone's done talking about it... Happy Birthday. Time for me to make a shake.

Looking good Steve.

Hey, come up with something original next time instead of just copying everything I say. Hey I was just looking through your window and didn't see anything else I could copy and say.

Video of my dirt bike trip in Flagstaff, AZ from last month-ish.

Yeah, the majority of the time they fuck up the measurements.

A table saw would help. If you can get / borrow a plunge router with a jasper jig then cutting circular holes for the drivers will be easy, if not you can use the jigsaw for it. Make sure you have a bunch of big clamps, those will come in handy. I would get some wood and just do some practice cuts. Also, for like twenty to thirty bucks you can have RAM Designs make an enclosure design for you, along with cutout sheets, that should make things a bit easier. Wow, Imp literally just posted right before me. Now I sound redundant.