ssh

Jesus christ you guys are still talking about boots.

Pure WIN right now, I got the ms8 for $460 brand new, not on ebay either... WOOT WOOT

Yes, its "enough". At full tilt you may be off a few dB's from your potential but that is easily rectified later if it bugs you. MS-8 > 360 anyday of the week, although don't get caught up in the automatic setup hype. Oh I won't, that takes all the fun out. But I know it's a way more advanced dsp so why not. I think I'll just get this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12251_JBL-GT5-A604.html and run everything off it, for the sake of simplicity. God knows I need some simplicity.

I can buy a jbl ms-8 brand new for $500 It also has speaker outputs: 4 ohms: 18 watts x 8 chan. 18watts should be plenty for the tweeters? Then I could just use my current amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_29982_VIBE-Audio-LiteBox-Stereo-2-LiteBox2.html for the midrange. Or I could afford the JBL GT5-A604 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12251_JBL-GT5-A604.html and have it do everything. 4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan. Think that's enough power for the midrange? If so, this would give me way more control then the RF 3sixty.2, and I wouldn't have to deal with buying some bluetooth adapter and connecting it to the computer.

I'll send him a pm and see if he still has them. This is going to sound rather dumb but I like how these look: Fostex FT28D 28 mm Dome Tweeter http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/soft-dome-tweeters/fostex-ft28d-28-mm-dome-tweeter/ But yeah I'll see if Lithium still has his.

Just starting to look, these morels caught my eye, for no particular reason http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/soft-dome-tweeters/morel-mdt12-1-textile-dome-tweeter/ So im completely open for tweets. Looking for something with a warm natural sound, nothing harsh. Since im not getting midrange my budget for tweets went up. Budget is about $120 for the pair of tweeters. Considering the JBL GTO1004 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12244_JBL-GTO1004.html for an amplifier.

I would be very lost without all the help from everyone on ssa, probably taken me a few weeks to figure out what we did in a day or two.

Rode the mtb today, all mud!

Yeah im compromising, not willing to give up anymore leg room. Glad you bring it up though.

Sounds like I should just get large format tweeters and do all the processing with the 3sixty and get a 4channel amp. Mount everything in the kicks. That will fit my budget better. Thanks for clearing up all my confusion.

I'm starting to feel the limited crossover ability in the higher range is really going to pull away from the entire concept of going active. 5000hz too low for a tweeter? With clarion crossover I can get it up to 8000hz. The ex-anarchies can play up to around 2500-3000hz, so a mid range playing 2500-3000hz to 5000hz-8000hz (does that sound adequate at all?), then tweeter from 5khz,8khz and up. My brain is mush from looking at speakers, dsps, and crossovers since yesterday morning. I'm gonna hop on the mountain bike for a few hours.

Heh, another way to do all processing. Unfortunately my head unit is basic and has none of that, but if I can already buy a dsp(3sixty.2), and use onboard amp settings / possibly add on clarion cross over, then it's gravy. Depending on if I could get away with hpfing the tweeter at 5000hz then I could get an IA 6.1 and wouldn't have to get the clarion crossover ($80) But if I did need the clarion so I could hpf the tweets at 8000hz, then I'd probably just buy a cheaper amp (that can still lpf the mid range). After getting mid bass drivers, processor, and some wire, I'll have around $400 left for the amp, mid range, and tweeters. Which isn't a whole lot. I've been considering these for tweeters: SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/auto-tweeters/seas-prestige-27tffnc/g-h1396-1-textile-dome-tweeter/ I'm going to look for some 4" midranges, that way it's not lacking in output. Perhaps this Seas Prestige 4.5" http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-4-midrange/seas-prestige-mca12rc-h1304-4.5-coated-paper-midrange/ would suit well with the tweeter. Why does madisound only list specs on half the drivers ughh! And I would have to make sure I can fit the 4.5" along with the mid bass drivers. Or I still have the possibility of using the aurasounds I have, in a vertical array in kicks, with tweeters.

Perhaps now I have it somewhat figured out, in response to Imp.

I just read through the manual for the Alpine PXE-H660. http://vault.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_PXE-H660.pdf It has one set of rca inputs, and and 3 sets going out: Front1, Front2, and rear. So that sounds like I could use front1 for mid bass, front2 for mid range bandpassed, then use the rear channel for the tweeter. The entire unit is $250 and you can plug it into a laptop for adjusting everything at the driver seat. ^Nevermind, read though to see all the crossover points and won't work.

Yeah I've read where people had them crossed fairly high with great results. If I use the rf 3sixty.2 to handle the mid bass and midrange, then split the mid range signal to new channels for tweeter, then use the amps crossover, perhaps it could work. Just have to find an amp that'll let me cross over that high. Yeah just a coincidence, I've gotten white paint, fiberglass resin, etc all over those shoes, comfortable though.

I guess now I'm sorta against doing a three way since it'll require more processing and my budget won't allow for something like an ms-8, bit ten, and so forth. If I could find a single driver say around 4" diameter with a depth less then 3" I could mount it in dash and have it on-axis with the driver seat (my dome, lol). I may be able to fit a 4" diameter driver in the kicks along with the ex-anarchy, maybe maybe. I'm pretty set on the mid bass drivers so I'll likely order those in a few days, once I get them then I can place them in the kicks and start making some mockups, see what space I have left for other drivers. If you are buying an amplifier anyways.....you could always use the on-board xover in the amp to lowpass the midrange and highpass the tweeters. It'll limit your amp selection to something that will allow a high enough highpass/lowpass for the midrange and tweeter xover point, but then you could still get by with a "3-way" processor and run a 3-way active front stage with a tweeter. Never crossed my mind. So basically these are my options: Option one ~4" diameter driver with less then 3" depth that can play above the exodus ex-anarchy to the point of a tweeter (or at least where I would need it). It could possibly fit in the kick panels along with the ex-anarchy, if there isn't enough space, then it would go in dash but facing the person in the seat. So is there any full range drivers that you can think of that would fit those limitations, so much stuff on pe and madisound it makes hard to choose well. Option two I just resort to a nice small coaxial either in the dash on axis facing the listener, or mounted down in the kick. Option three use two 3" full range's in a vertical array in kick panel, along with tweeter. Option four, This is what I'm currently leaning towards. Use a 4" mid range in kicker along with a tweeter. If I were to do option three or four. I could use the rockford 3sixty.2 http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=106187 The outputs are: 6-channel RCA level (FR/FL/RR/RL/Center/Sub) So it's technically a 3way but in my case I'd only be able to take advantage of the front channels and rear channels, so "2way" in my case. I could use fronts for mid bass, rears for mid range but leave the top open, then split that signal to another signal for tweeters. Then I could use the onboard amp filters to lpf the mid range, and high pass the tweeters. The IA 6.4 has lpf and hpf up to 5000hz. Is this something that could work? Using a ~4" midrange driver lpf'd at 5000hz and a tweeter hpf'd at 5000hz. Or I could try the 3" aurasounds I already have, http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/aurasound-ns3-193-8a-3-extended-range/ Not saying I have to use them, but looking at the graph it looks like they should handle 5000hz fine. Just unsure if 5000hz is too low for tweeters or not. If so, I can use a clarion crossover in between: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13514_Clarion-MCD360.html then I could hpf the tweeters at 8000hz. So would some tweeters like the Seas Prestige textile dome, http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/auto-tweeters/seas-prestige-27tffnc/g-h1396-1-textile-dome-tweeter/ play 5000hz,8000hz and up? The IA 6.4 is a 4channel amp but I already have a 2channel that I could dedicate for the mid bass drivers. Or the sax100.4 could be used in placement of the ia 6.4, it has the same crossover abilities. (I've heard a few things about sundown amps being noisy or having static sounds, not sure how true this is...) I have great admiration for anyone who reads all this. Especially those helping.

Seas ER18 are like ~$80 each.

I guess now I'm sorta against doing a three way since it'll require more processing and my budget won't allow for something like an ms-8, bit ten, and so forth. If I could find a single driver say around 4" diameter with a depth less then 3" I could mount it in dash and have it on-axis with the driver seat (my dome, lol). I may be able to fit a 4" diameter driver in the kicks along with the ex-anarchy, maybe maybe. I'm pretty set on the mid bass drivers so I'll likely order those in a few days, once I get them then I can place them in the kicks and start making some mockups, see what space I have left for other drivers.

If I had my entire front stage in the kicks, would it sound okay, since the mid range wouldn't be near ear level. If that works out okay: Or this might be the best: Edit, didn't mean to resize the pictures that small, my bad.

I've used the focal access 1 series in my fathers vehicles and been happy with the tweeter / mid range. Perhaps I should just do this: Focal 100 CA1 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11729_Focal-100-CA1.html It's small enough that I could probably angle it enough so that it'd point back at the driver seat.

^that's the aurasound 3" Figure if I used a 4"-5" driver and had a depth of under 3 1/2" then I could probably have it lower and aimed more on axis.

Okay multiple 3" driver just isn't going to fit. So It looks like I'm stuck with a 4"-5" full range either firing almost up, towards glass, Or I can possibly angle it towards the driver if the depth isn't too much. Uploading pictures now.

2002 volvo v40. The dash looks like this: LMAO. ROFL. You aren't planning on it, but you'll need to do it. At least for the first couple months.As for the question regarding deadening, constraining is better than just adding mass. Even better is to build them so they don't need extra constraints. Way more headunits available for 2 way. Curious on your space. Having 3's stacked on top of each other gets to be a rather big "box" up in your pillar. Sure you have room for that?Well the know the thing to going active is, you will always be adjusting it and adjusting it until it's just right. And "just right" won't ever actually happen lol. But I feel confident in using a laptop and several hours of detailed listening for months to come. :)So I just pulled out the 3" auras I had, tried placing them on the a-pillar as I thought would be rather easy and your right, they take up a fair amount of space.If I was to put a 4"-5" mid range in the dash (firing towards windshield) could this be something I could eq? Or as onebadmonte suggested, just put a coaxial (still in dash).In order for a vertical array to work properly, do they have to be directly on axis with each other? Or could one be on the a-pillar while the other is below and an inch off axis to the right?on axis means shooting at yooo face, both side of course. Yes but I wasn't sure it they had to be perfectly aligned.

a nice array of those beefcakes would sound awesome! If I was rich, I would love to make a video: An entire crate of skar products on the roof of a building, then just throw it off. Then post it everywhere where people nut for skar, hear'm all cry, oh noes! Or just make a video: hook one up to a wall socket til it blows apart, then just say "yep it's shit." ROFL