ssh

Okay, I'm super happy right now. I've been screwing around with the XOs and slopes on the ms8, certainly got it better, but when I went under the menu and took the processing from active to defeat, it sounded way better. But I thought defeat took out the crossovers and slopes as well, so I was like "WTF full range signal and it sounds way better, im pissed, but I can't run full range..." Well I just did a test: disconnected tweeters, crossed the mid at 500hz 24 db/slope, switched it from active to defeat, and the higher spectrum was still inaudible (unless I turned the volume up a TON, which is normal since it's attenuating, not cutting the shit off). So yeah the ms8's autotune shit sounds awful in my car compared to "defeat." Just have to sorta start over on the crossover points and slopes. Now I feel content with dropping $1k into this. Oh man. :D

That isn't saying so much, I wouldn't use the MS8's. I also don't even care if it has one because no matter what it makes assumptions that I won't. From the get-go you don't have a choice, you have to run through it's tests. There's a option in the main menu that allows you to turn off the processing: But I'm not sure if it removes the crossover settings as well... I guess I can do a quick test tomorrow morning and find out. Update: Setting the processing option in the menu to defeat, does not remove the crossovers and slopes.

Off hand.....lack of digital input, limited manual tuning capability, preset saving similar to what 72kid mentioned. It seems like there's more I thought of last night that I can't think of now. When you input your crossover settings, it runs a sweep of tests afterwards and throws out information so to speak. So once your done going through all the settings, you can't simply go in the menu and change a crossover point "on the fly". You have to go back into the menu, start all over. Example, for the last three days I've been messing with my XOs and slopes, so I've had to do the following: Insert test cd. wait for ms8 to register it, then press ok. take cd out. select sub. select front setup (1way,2way,etc) input crossovers and slopes. input which channel goes to what. then run 4 tests. The above takes me about 1 to 2 minutes. Listen to a few songs, decide I want to change the XO or slope, have to start that all over. One to two minutes may not seem very long, but when your doing it fifty times... Plus I've done it so many times I can fly through the menus without having to remember what's what... -------------------------------------- It has a function that allows you to save favorites, like presets. Well it's only for system level and tone control (treble, mid, bass, EQ settings), it's not for Crossovers and slopes. So you can't simply switch between to different crossover setups (which would be fucking awesome). The remote is somewhat of a pain at times, sometimes I can press it and it works perfectly, other times I have to press it more then once and end up going to the next page or unintentionally changing a different setting. (remote works off the ms8 unit, not the display) --------------------------------------- So as much as I've complained here, I can't say that any other DSP would be better in any regard.

Not! Yes...I just spent five minutes drawing that. I forgot to fill in the chair, dammit!

Very much so.

They did get his wallet... You can buy a lot shit before CC are canceled.

Initially, it was terrible, but that's given when going to active, I hear. I've sat in the car listening to music and tweaking for probably 8 hours so far, I've gotten it to where I was very very content with the sound, especially the midbass packing a punch. Then I started playing "Death Whispered a Lullaby" by Opeth, at 0:38-00:41 I can hear a subtle but very displeasing sound. Sounds almost like crunching paper. I can hear it in a couple other spots in the song. So currently I'm listening to see if it's in any other songs or if it's just the recorded material. I'll post an update later if I've found anything. Thanks, I'm sorta dreading pulling them back out and finishing, I'm like "Oh but I have sound now, why touch it..." lol. Although I might try opening up the back of the pods, that would be some sort of motivation for pulling them out and finishing.

It messes up the frequency response. That's okay to you? What it shows me is that you haven't heard a system that was setup properly. When comparing not so good to not so good and all around you then surely you might have a preference for one or the other. Perhaps my goals are strange. When I listen to music, I want to listen to the music. Perhaps MY goals are strange? When I listen to music I want 26hz notes to rock my ribs and for the vocals to be loud and clear. Not having perfect imaging and little anomalies in the frequency response doesn't bother me at all. Just like if you couldn't play into the 20's at full volume that might not bother you at all but to me that's a problem. Just because my subs may play lower than yours doesn't mean that you set yours up wrong...you like it just fine that way. You're assuming that a "system that was setup properly" sounds the best to everybody. You can't do that, just like I can't assume that 26hz at 140+db sounds great to everybody. Personal preference is my key point. But if you happened to sit in a vehicle designed with proper imaging and flat response, I'm sure you would love it. Obviously excessive bass throws everything else out the window, but it's possible to have a setup that does everything well, just a compromise back and forth if you want sq or spl. It's like saying I like watching movies on a tv, normally I watch DVDs, but I don't like Blu-ray. I want it to sound kinda good, but not the full experience. Flame on...

We were talking about building new door panels, which could technically house everything, but my guess is, less is more? On the doors, we could position the tweeter and midrange into any direction. The woofers (5.25") could be rotated up a little bit, fire more towards the opposing listening seat, or something.

Ipod integration is sick.

Thanks for the tips guys. Should make things a little easier. And now I see why a 3way would be a Bitch.

Fuck you. Hahaha.

Agreed.

Dammit, I don't wanna look through 20 ihop pages Haha.

Fiberglass resin weakens mdf wood, but it makes the surface smoother.

What's that youtube video of the guy serving hot tea? Someone posted it in here a few weeks ago.

I'm glad, because I'm not trying to steer you away or put you down in any way.

Awfully elitist don't you think? Nobody EVER "does it right" on their first try. He's not dumb. Just eager and uneducated like we all started. I'm simply stating: don't slack when designing the enclosure, or spend the money and have someone do it correctly. I'm not being an Elitist... I apologize if I personally offended you. If you installed new speakers, you wouldn't just twist the wires together and wrap some electrical tape on it, would you? Spend an extra five minutes and solder everything. If you were designing a ported enclosure with a 35hz tune, but didn't bother to account for driver & port displacement, think you'd still be near your 35hz? I'm not being a dick, all I'm saying is: take your time and do it right the first time... or don't bother doing it yourself.

NS-1, for Sean.

Try it lower, 80hz seems is pretty high. Also, less is more on slopes. I have it at 50hz with 12db/octave slope. With the power you have the ER18's should definitely take it. Not sure if your EA4000 is identical to mine, but on mine you can't defeat the crossover, so I set it to 30hz. Mines set low enough on the amp that's not an issue. Ill mess with the bottom once im content with the mid to tweeter XO

Haven't touched phase or eq at all. Just crossover and slopes. 80hz, 18db slope. 1750hz, 18db slope. Rocking my pants off.

Sweet adrian, I always love seeing your work. And lol about competing against another build done by you Haha. Okay I just tried some new crossover points. OMFG so fucking awesome!!!! Wanna talk about midbass? A cd on my passenger seat is moving ROFL. so happy right now

What mids are you using? That's kinda low on the upper end for my taste(1250) but could definitely be appropriate depending on your speaker. Also keep in mind that the steepest slope is not always the best. You may find that a more shallow slope and lower/higher crossover point is much better (on the low or high end). Are you able to adjust your tweet crossover? For the upper end on your mids you may find it easier to get your initial point with no tweet at all, so you can tell when the mids break up easier, especially if you have a hearty tweet. Well I've done about 2 hours of testing today and it's getting better. I still need to find out which driver is making a "rip" sound at higher volume. I think I'll disconnect the tweeters and that'll tell me soon enough. Mids are exodus ex-anarchy, tweets are peerless hds. Raising the crossover point and lowering the slope has helped.

At first, I could switch it to defeat and go WTF this sounds so much better then active lol... But I have plenty of time and this is a good thing for me to tweak and mess with, instead of cutting up door panels or fiberglassing dash just for something to do. Whatcha got planned?

So there's a cutout in the sheet metal in the lower right hand corner, with a depth of 2.5" or so. Between that and a baffle over a new door panel, you'd have an easy 3-4" to play with for depth. And since the motor could tuck in that panel, you could probably fit a 8" driver relatively easy without having it stick out super far. I'm thinking: new wood panel, right hand corner circular cutout. Then an 8" mdf baffle (or whatever size driver you end up using) glued down. Then UPOL filler on the sides of the baffle down to the wood panel until it's smooth. Then cutouts for armrest and door lock. Attach plastic tabs around edges, wrap in new vinyl, attach top plastic weather piece. Only thing is the speaker would go right where the cup holder was... Any way, lets see what you end up using and well go from there.