ssh

Story of my life.

Seriously. Hope something turns up man, good luck.

Who gives a shit. I got a walther p22 and a springfield xdm 9mm. I do the same shit. I meant .22 rifle I got one of those too, and a sig 556.

Az was a cake walk for a cc, now its not even needed.

I know the feeling, except Im too lazy to reread the ihop.

From what the Deka dealer told me when I bought my batteries, charging at these higher voltages will cause excess gas to build up inside the battery. Since they are sealed batteries the gas will balloon the case and short the plates. They will not warranty a battery if it's been ballooned. There is even a label on my Dekas stating do not exceed 14.7 volts when charging. In the case of high voltage/low amperage vs low voltage/high amperage what best for charging a sealed AGM battery? Right now I'm playing super safe as I don't want to ruin $1200 worth of batteries. At the same time I don't want to waste all day running back and forth to the charger to make sure everything is fine. I was hoping just setting the XP charger overnight will have the bank nicely charged and ready for a show. I hear ya, I'd rather play it safe then toast everything too. Just heard Nick talk about it numerous times and a few others like Shizzzon and they didn't have any issues.

15.5v is fine for a agm 12v battery. High voltage and low amperage is a good way to charge, at least from talking to Nick from Fi and a few others.

6db shallow - 24db steep I'm sure you can guess what the rest is in between. Good explanation: http://www.bcae1.com/xovrslop.htm

Who gives a shit. I got a walther p22 and a springfield xdm 9mm. I do the same shit.

Opps We were looking for a stud in the garage when we first moved to the new house, hit a plastic water line...

Awe man, I love this forum.

Oh yes. Tried well over fifty combinations when messing with the ms8. Test, test, test, see what sounds best to you.

That's awesome. Sounds like we all need some round drivers, square drivers, and triangular drivers, to cover all the bases.

All hail Linux.

That's sound advice. Although I agree with not chasing numbers unless competing, I would rather actually design a setup that works well for my needs instead of just throwing it all together in a wall, and tuning low. Sure the latter option can get loud, but why not put some effort into a design and get it even louder.

OP, You want to be able to play ~30hz - ~45hz very loudly (spectrum most rap music is), thus you said breaking the 150db mark. Correct? The advantage to a wall is that it decreases the cabin volume. Less cabin volume, easier to pressurize (more output). This is assuming that the wall is sealed off from the rear of the cabin. Obviously your driving visibility gets thrown out the window. Another thing that may be considered, perhaps not (not entirely sure on this one), is the wavelengths of certain frequencies you want to play. I believe the lower the frequency, the longer wavelength. The more cabin volume, more room for the frequency (more so with lower frequencies) to propagate (more cabin gain). Not 100% sure on this, perhaps someone more knowledge will clarify.

Stefan Hinote, Lol Stop trying to be like Sean, It's sad I read his post laughed, decided I'd post laughing about it in the IHOP rather then adding mess to the OG thread.

Those bars were added to that car, he won't be using any strut brace bars in the rear.

You make me laugh man. The reason that post asks for what you have heard in the past / owned in the past, is to gauge what you perceive as loud or good sq. As loudness and sq are all relative. I'm guessing 150db+ on music, daily, Not for short burps.

YES YES YES! Oh Yes. Fuck yeah. Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto Mata o hima de, Domo arigato, Mr. Roboto Himitsu wo shiri tai

Team Skar, lol.

Now that's hilarious.

lol thanks... actually the car stills moves pretty good after putting the subs in.... i can already do a hairtrick... i just think with a bigger box/bigger ports... it will do a even better hairtrick lol Yea i can imagine even with the extra weight that the car can still fly, bet the brakes were a pain the first time after the subs went in!! I know they were in my car, had an Integra with H22, with 2 12" SI Mags and Hifonics amp, all fiberglassed in hatch area, first time i installed everything and went cruising around, the brakes felt like they went out on me!!! Well any ways back to original topic!! As for measuring the space, if you are planning on going around all the nooks and crannies, you are going to need to dissect each section into its own portion. Well take alot of time and some pretty good math, but it is one of the best methods(that i am aware of) to measure everything. If you were to just stay inside the struts though you should be able to make a good rectangle area out of that and probably have enough space. But there will be no set in stone solution for your problem, it may require a rebuild or 2 if the first ones dont pan out to exactly what you want. So just be aware of that. My opinion would be the try and keep the box inside the struts and just put a sealing wall at the front baffle to reduce the cabin space and reduce the need for all the extra measuring, but that is just me, and what i would most likely do. Best of luck man, would love to see if once finished!! Keep me updated, please. haha ya the brakes felt the same with me... took me a lil while to get used to... definetly can tell the car has more weight to... takes more gas to get up a hill now... and with having 8:1 compression its soooo slow til the turbo kicks in lol...nice on having a h22 in a intergra... i was thinking about putting a h22 in my hatch... but after all the money and time it would of taken i just decided to rebuild my motor and turbo it... way more hp in the end lol... and ya that does sound like the best solution to keep it in between the struts... ill measure and see what how much room i have to play with... ill definetly keep you updated thanks for the help i was thinking if i cant build a good wall with 2 18s i wanna switch to 4 12s or 4 15s... but i just love saying i have 18s in my car lol... IA makes 21" drivers. Oh shit!

A 2007 Mercedes Benz ML63. What kind of small dick question was that? I think it was more of a tough "what you got on this" type question lol not what do you drive my good sir.... hahahahahahaha! Tune your system to 40hz play some decaf that drops down to 25hz and keep it playing for a good minute dont worry about the loud clacking sound or the funny smell thats normal. Do this for a day straight then come back and ask us what you did wrong! its called research and common sense bro. If you listen to stuff that hits lows then tune lower. I feel a good rule of thumb is tune it to about 32hz and play normal music. If you set your amp correctly you will have no worries. You will get treated with respect if you respect the rules we have hear. I mean would you want someone coming to you with empty questions and giving you no details? what car is going to go faster the red one or the blue one? see question makes no sense. But then I say what will be faster the red vette with twin turbos or the blue prius with the hybrid engine? see how that works! INFORMATION IS KEY TO GETTING ANSWERS! This guy is so gay it's frightening.

Now I see why you are opposed to "bashing" in threads as you are too lazy to bother to make a good one or search yourself. Geometry hasn't changed for years. Of course curves can mean many things so its pretty hard to respond. Tons of tricks, but some specifics would help. Try it both ways. Best way to really determine. If you want to know more of why, perhaps explain what you want to achieve, what you have for space, where it goes, etc. etc etc. As for its own chamber. Pros and cons. Again, don't know which would apply to you, but if I have to make an assumption on what you've given us its that you can't do geometry very well so with what you've given us I'd say put them in the same chamber. lol how am i supposed to make one myself when ive never done it before.... if your gonna be a douche just dont post on my threads...k...thx... and try it both ways ?? what do you mean by both ways....port on bottom and then try it on top ?? im not gonna build a box... then rebuild it just to find out it sounds the same.... i want to hit atleast 150db.....how do i measure the space i have ?? as you can tell the top of the car is wider than the bottom cause of the struts... LOL. You want to know which way will work better for your application, yet your not willing to actually test and find out. You want someone else to simply tell you "In your specific car and in that application this way works best." I'm sorry but that's not going to happen. Sure people can guess or assume since it worked in one vehicle that'll work in yours. M5 is one of the most knowledgeable members on this forum, so it makes me laugh when you tell him to just leave. Measuring volume, Length * Width * Depth. Assuming measurements are taken in inches, multiply final outcome by 1728 to get cubic feet. Don't forget to account for material thickness of enclosure, space taken up from fender wells, etc.