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Why don't they have harddrives, how easy is it to open the case for installing a hdd, and hows the battery life? Very easy to change. My sister buys a new laptop every year or so it seems and gives me the old ones. I threw the good hard drive into my laptop and run linux on one and windows 7 on the other. The other drive had a virus and wasn't worth fixing. I forgot the battery on the dell is completely useless. Both batteries in the Toshiba's are decent/good but the 13" is ~4 years old. The newer Toshiba was about $1000 and was purchased in august of 2010. Mmkay, well I'm going to look around but I'll keep that in mind, I'll be running linux as well, several distros.

This sounds like it'll do everything I need, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834158129 Just need to double check graphics and exact wireless drivers.

Why don't they have harddrives, how easy is it to open the case for installing a hdd, and hows the battery life?

I'm sure a lot of "wall" builds you aren't secured at all. If you can find any existing threads/nuts where your wall is going, and you can use a large bolt and washer, and screw it into that. As Tirefryr said, use as many mounting points as possible.

fixed Or a can of coke.

Yeah so I think that should suffice.

Oh and I made a panorama in about thirty seconds, without a tripod, as you can see from all the lines. The command center where I piss everyone off on The Internets.

Scroll my bitches: That's the edging Tirefryr.

I dig it.

The same reason people buy shit because Steve Meade uses it and therefore it must be good. The same reason why people feel like they have to buy an amplifier rated for xxx amount of power to "properly" power their subwoofers. The same reason why some people think all mainstream products are crap, such as JL, and everything "underground" that isn't known to the mass is the best stuff ever. So it can detect a lower level of distortion, so what? If your ears can't tell the difference, then why does it matter? Your listening to the music with your ears, not some mic or analyzer that goes "OH shit, 1% thd, negative points negative points." I understand your need to set the gains as high as you can on your monoblock amplifiers because you want it to be as loud as possible for your bass, right? The different in output from having the gain set between these two methods: "right below audible distortion from the ear (gain set by ear)" and "DD-1 with less then 1% distortion" isn't going to be audible. You would have to be off by enough so that the amplifier is making half it's power, thus creating at most, a 3dB difference. Which means you have a lot of headroom to be off, and your ears wouldn't be able to tell the difference. Your just pissing your money away. Or your using it for setting the gain for your front stage amp, well shit that should be easy to hear audible distortion, turn it down to where you can't hear it, and your set. Your acting like all music is 100% distortion free, and any distortion, no matter how small percentage, added to the mix is going to wreck havoc. If your competing, playing constant sine waves, and you want to play it at the highest level possible before excessive clipping, then I guess that's a different story.

I'm lucky I don't have to deal with a hood release. The edge banding I have is fairly thick, I've wrapped it around some baffles I made earlier, and they don't bend or give in any way. How thick is the cardboard trim?

good deal I thought so when I saw them. They are 12 ohm so I will need to keep all 3 together to get a 4 ohm mono load. I plan on putting them in my son's jeep. What model jeep?

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick. I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms. Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better. It's not holding any weight nor is it structural, so there's really no need for the mat. I guess in that situation the drivers are small, and don't create much force, so it's fine, but for larger kick panels and larger drivers, it wouldn't suffice?

Good luck getting just the way you want it. Vented and some polyfil and they should sound great. I think fleece and a few layers of the woven mat are more than strong enough. The ass on the Anarchy's probably isn't helping the pods get any smaller either. Are you planing to start with seperate rings next time or a single baffle again? This was the start from the current ones: Then I found out it was just too big, so I trimmed around the edges to this: But the shape was lost and looks like shit. I think I'll make the new ones like I started with, but there won't be a space between the mid and tweeter, and I'll trim ALL the wood around the drivers. Thinking about using veneer edge banding around the edges, this will make the baffle recessed a bit, and give me room to make a grill cover.

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick. I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms. Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better. I myself am not a huge fan of kicks. I like my foot space, I'm thinking of doing some new simple door pods... What will remove armor all? I can never get it off to allow me to stick tape to anything. My kicks are huge and do take up a lot of space, sucks for long periods or driving, and likely annoys passengers, but I'm not sure how well I could replicate the current sound with anything in my doors. The armor all is just on plastic paneling? You could try brake cleaner, brake cleaner gets everything off everything, just not good on paint.

Some good ideas there There's a few things I'll be looking back to when I redo my kicks. One thing for sure, I'm not going to use the stock plastic kick panel, but replace it entirely with fiberglass. This was my original ones, I scuffed up the plastic, and added layers on either side: But it didn't adhere well enough and on the bottom edges it gave way a little bit, perhaps if I drilled holes through.

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick. I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms. Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better. We do it nice cause we do it trice. Keep at it until it's right. I modeled my drivers in winISD, small enclosure verse IB, and IB doesn't model any better in terms of output, slightly more rounded over FR. But I like the idea of opening up the back so both drivers see the same volume, and have closer frequency responses.

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick. I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms. Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better.

I'm guessing the corrosion created lots of resistance in the circuit between the battery and amplifier.

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.com/articles/how-make-two-layer-kickpanels Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

Music is dynamic. You can use an O-scope, or this DD-1, play some constant sine wave, and set it to where you don't see clipping. Then get in your car and start playing music (dynamic content) that's recorded at different levels, and half the music you might be clipping, whether it's enough to be audible, I don't know, but at that point you could have just played some music and fiddled with the gain until it sounded right, and saved yourself a hundred bucks or so. If one song was recorded at a different level then another, you can simply turn your volume knob up or down a few clicks, I don't see whats so hard to grasp. At least that's my understanding.

Watched Qualifying Heat 2. It was an exciting damn heat. Didn't get to watch the main event. Who made it to the podium? Vilopoto, reed, dungey. It was a good race, stewart was in the mix, but hit a tough block near the end.

Hey Kyle, not saying this is the case, bc obviously its not, but if he had a bigger battery bank, would this still be an issue?? because of the power curve? or would a big a$$ battery bank help that? The OP's vehicle idles below the rpm level needed to trigger the alternator to turn on. At idle, the alternator is off, the entire electrical system relies on battery voltage(float level). From the chart Kyle posted, their 320HP would produce around 93amps at idle (whether this be near the stock alts rating or below, I don't know), but 93a for stock electrical + a big stereo = no bueno. So as you can see in either case, your mainly going to be relying on your batteries when the vehicle is parked or idling. If the OP had thirty large agm batteries in the back of his car, he would have plenty of battery reserve, and the alternator's nearly non-existent contribution at idle wouldn't really matter in the scheme of things. (assuming your driving around like normal) But having thirty agm batteries isn't going to change the alternator's turn on speed or power curve.

Yeah I didn't want to say anything.

Watching first race of supercross on speed!