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Fs of 40hz! I kno man, thats loud as hell! I talked to the guy. He said they take 6k extremely well & people in Italy are very impressed with them. They look beefy though, I'm lovin the quad stacked magnets! I seen some pics on this sub yesterday on a forum found by "Google" and he had 1 15" kevlar in a small spl box 2-3cubes. And it hit a amazing 151db+! That may not seem that much 2 you guys but that was a single sub + it the setup was in the trunk of a car. An SPL score tells you NOTHING about the performance of a woofer while listening to music. Power handling means nothing at well. So it handles 6K, big whoop, that means nothing as well. Why on earth do you need a driver to handle 6K for daily when 500 is more than enough. I'll stop here as I don't want to get into the stupidity of marketing today and ignorance. Too late man. Thank god for ihop.

Me 2 I could ask him about it. They must get loud with a fs of 40hz. I just wonder will they still hit lows good like 28hz.-below Ha my hdc3's have a high fs and I pound 22hz all day long and peak at 29hz

Randy you are so lost.

Sweet. Won, ebay?

Found some of it:

Jared, Have you used the "EB General Purpose Polyester Resin" from uscomp, or 435 Standard Polyester Layup Resin? Gelcoat and styrene? I know Audibel Customs told me some of the stuff he uses a while back, time to search through posts and pms.

Thanks for info and pics Jared, looks perfect. I also wanted to get away from the volcano look, I trimmed down the base and tried to make it more even with the baffle so the sides aren't so slanted from small panel to big panel.

Except skizzy has been saying that for months as a joke.

One thing you guys are all overlooking, their packaging really sets them apart: Some child had to make those as well assembling the driver.

I mine as well order a few gallons of resin, mekp, and mat while I'm at it. If you're looking at the two part stuff, it will NOT dissolve with a solvent. Alright thanks.

And even better: So sick bro!

ALmost makes you wonder if he likes bose. I always knew he had a big following, was in it to make money, etc, maybe a bit arrogant, but never saw any of his responses like that, what a fucking prick.

I mine as well order a few gallons of resin, mekp, and mat while I'm at it.

Yes, airspring as in air space behind the driver and how it effects the frequency response? The reason I'm looking to open up the back of each kick is to equal out the volume on either side, otherwise one might have 0.15 and the other 0.08 I may also try filling them with kitty litter, measure the volumes, if they are close enough, leave them, or possibly possibly try porting them into the dash.

Alright thanks, I'm thinking of using the foam to get the shape of the kick, but didn't want it to start becoming goop once I applied resin. Only issue is once you have completed it, you have to remove the foam. I can get a piece of artpaper, roll it up into a circle, put in each speaker baffle, then it'll unroll and take up most of the space behind the baffles. Then likely use a dremel to get any remaining parts protruding into the area where the motors will sit. I also plan on opening up the back of the kicks, so air space shouldn't be an issue. At least that's the plan.

Fs of 40hz!

Definitely makes sense, verse having a large panel with no support in the center. I was just curious if the orientation on having the edges overlap for cutouts was a big deal or not. I usually aim to be able to laminate all the needed pieces and then attach them easily. For your example You either need very long screws to attach the baffle or drill long countersink holes if you laminate first. Makes sense, I was going to make a page for cutout dimensions, and made it based off that picture I made, but I think I'll leave that part up to people to do what they want.

Alright thanks, I'm thinking of using the foam to get the shape of the kick, but didn't want it to start becoming goop once I applied resin.

Here's the owner of the company posting on c a, asking: The thread is titled "who els dose 100% Kevlar cone" if you want to search for it. He also asks: The above was posted on 12-16-2007. On 12-09-2007 he posted on termpro, http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/8/26583.html, showing off their new driver with kevlar cones. He doesn't sound very knowledgeable considering he's asking about a cone material that they already released for production, not to mention he's asking advice on the cone material on an public forum.

ya pipe strap, thought thats what he ment. I did say "plumbers tape" looks greati tried the expandable foam thing in my kicks.. total pain in the ass. looks greati tried the expandable foam thing in my kicks.. total pain in the ass.same here, I used the stuff in the can and it was horrid, would not sand, never fully cured.It would need to be something with very little bubbles in it.. Did you mask off the areas you didn't want it to spread with cardboard / art paper? I've used it before and it did take a while to full cure, it helped to spray a little, wait, spray more. I did end up with a few bubbles in the inside, luckily they didn't matter, and sanding to shape was easy. I just need to find out if polyester based resin will eat the foam and turn it into a goop, or if I should use epoxy based, or vice versa.

I made up a few pages for port tuning, that account for port displacement, as I haven't seen anything online that offered it. Slot Port: http://portsgalore.stefanhinote.com/?do=portlength Aero Ports: http://portsgalore.stefanhinote.com/?do=portaerolength It uses the port length equation from the loudspeaker cookbook. Input: volume, port dimensions, tuning. It figures out the port length, and port volume (port length * port area). Subtracts port volume from original volume = net volume. With the found port length and net volume, it figures out the real tuning. From there it has something to start with, and starts adjusting the original tuning frequency until the net tuning is within 0.5hz of the original tuning. So as stated above, the tuning outcome is within 0.5hz of the target frequency, it'll list exactly what it is. For aeros it adds one inch to the length for the flaring, as does psp-tools. For multiple aeros, it divides the volume by the number of aeros, solves for that new volume with one port, and pieces it back together in the end. I've compared the numbers I got when accounting for port displacement to the numbers you would get if your subtracted the port displacement from the volume and used external ports, and the math looks good. I had to take a few breaks as all the code was starting to get fuzzy to me. If anyone else would like to try out, confirm the numbers, etc, that would be appreciated. My hope is that it'll help out everyone whose designing their enclosure, but I don't want to provide incorrect information either.

I remembered bits and pieces, and didn't go back to find it. I didn't think it was going to be anything drastic, but it's always nice to see what everyone else thinks. I mounted the new baffles and positioning is clear of everything except my leg, perhaps I'll saw my leg off for that nth degree. I appreciate all the reading and responding you take on. What I would give for that. Thunderstorms with the window open are nice here.

Oh and I forgot to use wax or any release agent between the tape and fiberglass.