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Above my post 95Honda explains it simply. You can also think of it like this: Driver XXX rated for 100watts. clean signal: 50watts. clipped signal of the above (I don't remember if clipped signal is 30% more power?), so lets say now your clipped signal is 50 + 50*0.30 = 65watts 65watts is still well under the thermal rating of 100watts. So yes the signal is clipped, but it's not destroying the driver. Of course this is broad, and 95Honada's response covers everything, but I believe this example answers your thought.

Social Darwinism?

Sounds pretty bad. Nothing got on my neck or head (neck protector, helmet), just on top of my chest protector, and wrist. I have to say it was one of those "okay here I go" and time seems to freeze. Got up and thought to myself "well shit that wasn't bad.", just bent the bars. You guys built a little more character. On my way to another ride right now. Just put 10 miles on the ice rink we call a lake. One of the other guys cut a new trail, still needs to be burned in, but that was a nice change. Probably did around 40 miles of single track today, didn't hit any cactus either.

Sounds pretty bad. Nothing got on my neck or head (neck protector, helmet), just on top of my chest protector, and wrist. I have to say it was one of those "okay here I go" and time seems to freeze. Got up and thought to myself "well shit that wasn't bad.", just bent the bars. You guys built a little more character. On my way to another ride right now.

Cool cool. Tuned in for more fiberglass pics.

Sounds pretty bad. Nothing got on my neck or head (neck protector, helmet), just on top of my chest protector, and wrist. I have to say it was one of those "okay here I go" and time seems to freeze. Got up and thought to myself "well shit that wasn't bad.", just bent the bars.

I do believe it was and accident. He was using a usb stick and somewhere in the playlist was a 21hz test tone he forget about, IIRC.

Julian, have you guys applied resin to the door panels yet? I'm assuming that door panel is plastic from the looks, I strongly suggest scuffing up the plastic, and drilling holes before hand. This will give the resin and mat something to adhere to.

I tucked the front end coming out of a fast turn today on the dirt bike, slid headfirst for twenty feet right into a cholla cactus. It's funny how speed doesn't always correlate with how hard a crash is going to be.

My type R's are only 100rms each. The S takes less. So your using exactly 100watts to each? Even when you turn the volume down?

I think those alpines can take 100rms each @4 ohms ....and? *inserts owned icon here*

When you were last active, were people crazy about T-line enclosures or quarter wave? Same general principle for the most part.

Current setup: exodus ex-anarchy mids peerless/scanspeak hds tweets Kicks are sealed. I've started making new kick panels for the mids and tweets, possibly porting for more midbass, but I've started thinking about exodus mids in doors, get some midrange drivers (bumping up to a three way, I think I can manage ), put midrange & tweets in kick area, or just midrange kick, and or possibly tweets in dash and deal with window reflections. I like the idea of mids in doors so I could seriously free up some leg room, what downsides am I'm looking at? If they went into the doors, they would be mounted to a fiberglass panel/pod that's securely bolted to the sheet metal. The panel/pod could either be sealed, or IB into the door panel window cavity. Processing is an ms8. Here's some pictures for better understanding: Sheet metal would be cut to allow the driver to sit back a few inches (2" - 3") Not currently used, just another mounting location. I know in the past Sean mentioned window reflection issues with using the dash area, but I'm just throwing it out there (whether it be good or bad.) New kicks that I started: As you can see, big shit, where as the tweeter and midrange alone in the kicks would take up little space. Cliff Notes: What are the advantages / disadvantages to mounting midbass drivers to the door? Speaker will be mounted in fiberglass panel, sealed or IB, securely bolted to door. Midrange and tweeters would be placed in kick panel area (more leg room). processing=ms8.

I've been to CA, CO, NM, NV, and Mexico.

I've never had any stomach issues, and I didn't eat anything all day, until about an hour ago. Last night I had salad and steak. Seems to have stopped, but at first it made me pause.

I think I got the sound deadening process down. Cld tiles on sheet metal for panel resonance. mlv for adding mass to the panel, quieting road noise and covering open sections that cause cancellation. ccf between mlv and stock door panel to get rid of any rubbing noises between panels. Possibly some felt tape / cloth to wrap around wires.

I started getting random chest pains today, about five times, only lasting for a second each time. Never had this happen before. Wore a respirator with a clean filter when cutting mdf today.

Thanks, now I just have to deal with the thing I hate most, wrapping.

Hey Aaron where's my recone, you remember the coil config and size right?!?!?! Hope your weekend is laid back and you can relax.

Us Gov seized megaupload.

I got the car sounding pretty good after spending all day working on it, just can't drive it, or the tweeters will fall.

Well now they are. when I tested it didn't seem to be that big of a difference, but once the exodus' were in the doors, it was a different story. Thanks hehe. Now that you heard the difference in the EX's between sealed and IB, imagine them ported Check out the FR89EX to use as a full range, if you are going that route. Best there is imo. If you dont like them I will buy them off you I could always use spares. There's no way I can make an enclosure for them on the doors, don't have the depth do it right unfortunately. Lol to the last part, I will check them out.

Well now they are. when I tested it didn't seem to be that big of a difference, but once the exodus' were in the doors, it was a different story. Thanks hehe.

I fiber glassed over the sheet metal for a base, then made mdf rings to space the driver out, resin and fiber glassed on the sides, then added some kitty hair. Doesn't budge. I still need to make a trim piece to cover up my cuts on the door.

Uploading pictures. I put the exodus' in the doors, and the tweeters resting against the a-pillars. Stage height went up. Doors need to be deadened, I can hear some panel resonance, and plastic liner flapping on some material. One of the issues I had with the ms8 was every time I had the processing set to active, it sounded bad, midbass dropped, and everything seemed very shallow, playing with the EQ never helped much. So I always had the processing off (which means I was using XO points and slopes, but no T/A or autotune). The only thing that sounded better with the processing on was the stage seemed more precise and in the center. With the processing off, the music was full, lots of midbass, but stage lacked. I had a hunch that if I made different kick panels (better aiming, equal enclosure volume, ported / opened in back) then perhaps the ms8 wouldn't be trying to "bandaid" the install, and the active processing would work. Then as you read, I went nuts thinking of every single combination known to man, any way: With the exodus' in the doors I ran through the setup on the ms8 and tried out the active processing, It's soooooooooo sweet. Switched to defeat, doesn't sound bad, but not as good as active. Whether it be from both drivers being in the same alignment verse the kicks being off from one another, or because the doors are an IB setup, overall it sounds much better. I can play the exodus a bit louder then before, and so far I haven't heard any annoyances from the driver. I'll have to give an update once the doors are properly deadened. I'm very content with the sound right now, but I may still pick up a ~3" midrange, put it on the a-pillar with the tweet, and see how everything sounds with the exodus' crossed lower. Never know if I don't try. I can always sell it if it doesn't sound any better.