ssh

I have a rivet gun.

Don't like drilling where I can't see what I'm drilling into, but I guess there shouldn't be anything I need to worry about in that area. I like the rivet idea, even though that still requires drilling, but I could rivet a plate down in four spots, from the plate, secure the kick in a few areas.

The contours of the kickpanel, side railing, and industrial velcro would certainly hold down the kick panel from moving around, but if you pushed against it with your hand, it may budge a few mm. The kick area is all carpet+foam behind, so it doesn't have a strong mounting point. I'm thinking of welding a bolt at the very corner of the kick area, kicker panel has a small hole, bolt goes through when kicks are in, then I just tighten down a nut. When the time comes to sell the car, I can always cut off the bolts, grind, and paint, after all it would all be under the carpet. Too extreme?

What differentiates fiberglass resin from the stuff sold at uscomposites? I know the stuff sold at walmart/Home depot can be brittle.. but what other differences are there? They carry lots of different resins under polyester based, and epoxy based types. Their resins vary for different uses, higher strength, increased durability, high heat tolerance, to finishing and non structural applications. The stuff I ordered is polyester based and marine grade (in case I drive my car underwater), it also contains zero wax. Once a layer is hard, you don't need to sand it down to get rid of the wax film on top for the next layer. They sell it separately for the finishing layer, makes sanding less of a mess, and promotes curing on the top layer (no oxygen). Buying it in bulk is cheaper then buying the small cans of the cheap shit locally. The consistency between batches should be very good, verse the cheap shit, you may use a 1% - 1.5% ratio in one batch, end up with a 20 minute working time, try that the next batch, and you only get 10 minutes. Of course ambient temperature plays a big role as well. I also ordered two part expanding foam for shaping my projects, instead of wrapping in fabric. Their expanding foam comes in different densities (won't end up with massive air pockets like the great stuff), and the polyester based resin won't turn it into a huge melting glob. Also got some cab-o-sil, and mekp dispensers for making my life a little easier. Too much resin, brittle. Too little resin, dry and weak.

Process my order uscomposites! I need material.

Did you try phasing, eq, t/a and everything in those positions as well. Every variable should be accounted for. Of course, the fastest way to account for some is to say fuck it I'm compromising on that. It doesn't allow for manual control over anything, aside from the EQ, and initial crossover settings. The "autotune" does t/a and some sort of eqing with it's algorithm. I will admit, I didn't think of switching phase during the different combinations. I'm not in a rush--for a few more days. I'll try playing with the phase tomorrow & what I originally tested.

Sweet gifts. Should make life a little bit easier.

Okay I fucked around this entire afternoon til now, with positions. Going to try the a-pillars a shot, and make simple baffles with clay for support in the kicks, and try going back and forth. I'll find out soon enough what I like and don't like.

Looks like it fits like a glove, got lucky?

I should have got a bit one, something with manual control, but the ms8 fit my budget at the time, and I thought it would do everything I needed. Gah!

I checked for you and my university doesn't have a subscription . Sorry Stefan. Even with a membership you have to pay for the docs. Didn't realize that is what you were looking for Stefan. At my old company I could have gotten them for you. From what I read, aes membership + $5 gets paper. Or $20 without membership. But a membership + subscription to e-library is free access to articles. Im too cheap to spend the twenty bucks. Right now at least.

Yeah open room verse a car is quite different, but I still thought it could help, even at a lesser degree. I didn't want the tweeters up on the dash because of reflections, and I've read that its somewhat easier to tame those from the kick area then a windshield. Assuming I used tweets on the pillars, on axis, or off. How would the fr overall affect the staging? I thought the reflections from the windshield would wreak havoc on the staging. Possibly the ms8 autotune can work some magic, as it will already be on, and can't be avoided.

Sweet plan.

How'd you find it? If you don't mind me asking. I've been searching google for pdfs, along the lines of "hrtf localization" "head related transfer functions localization", and surprisingly, I found that last article with "hrtr pinna 500hz."

I went through this whole debate. Placement is everything, so yes better up high. EQ'ing is the last resort in my book if you understand the way the human ear perceives sound and follow the things you know about accoustics during install then you have already awnsered your own question. I had a Sony deck years ago that had a setting that "raised" the sound of the front speakers in increments . The unit had three settings. Amazingly it actully worked, SO in theory I know you can use the eq to raise the correct frequencys but have no clue which ones. I just know that install will predict so much and the eq'ing is there to correct anomalies in you particular install due to driver characteristics , install limitations and accoustics after the fact. Yeah I understand your point, and agree the less EQ the better, but having the tweets on the dash to raise the stage height will also introduce windshield reflections, and so forth. Still EQing. I know it's not always terrible, but I'd like to keep the tweeter and midrange close together.

I'm going to sit back, and if enough orders go in, I'll switch my 8ohm ones out.

I expect an answer in full detail when I wake up tomorrow morning.

Perhaps this will lend a hand, http://dare.ubn.kun.nl/bitstream/2066/18958/1/18958.pdf In case anyone else is looking for some light reading.

So our ears can't locate a sound source on the vertical axis until around 1khz and up. Biggest cues come from our outer ears around 3khz+. Between 1khz and 3khz torso reflections and shadows give away cues. If speakers playing these frequencies are placed low, say in the kick panel area, then the stage height will appear lower then having tweeters up on the dash or a-pillar. It's possible to raise the perceived location on the vertical axis with EQing. Not entirely sure what exactly must be done, but since torso reflections and shadows attenuate frequencies around 1khz+, perhaps adding a boost from 1khz to 3khz would do the trick? I've only read a handful of studies done on head related transfer functions, some ended up being entirely azimuth related, nothing vertical.

Tell him it was cancelled?

Thanks for looking guys.

HRTF Top.

Yeah definitely not asking you to pay lol, but some colleges have a subscription, and you can simply log in. I found the page about your university but can't tell if they have an account. I found a few other papers, perhaps I'll find what I'm looking for.

Is anyone an AES member subscribed to the E-Library? Or if your a student at a college, I can look up and see if you have "free" access to it. I don't want to pay $20 on a white paper (Creating Source Elevation Illusions by Spectral Manipulation).