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I AM A DEALER CALL ME 217-679-0555 I WILL CALL YOU LATER TONIGHT WHEN I GET OFF MY NIGHT SHIFT, AROUND 2AM. I NEED SOME BEAT FOR MY RIDE.

Tuned in for the front stage goodness. Doing vertical arrays with the 4" mids? I want those amps.

Havoc.

Happy Birthday man.

I know I will be giving it more power from A skar 1500d. I just thought I would try the skar. Worried about SQ, and buying one of the cheapest amplifiers?

I understand. I just thought with the better xmax it would. I don't know why you would correlate xmax to sq. If anything, you want the driver to move the least amount as possible, the further it's in the stroke, greater chance of distortion, although it's probably unlikely to be audible, especially in this spectrum.

I've had a few icons and xcons. All in different enclosure alignments, no way to give a fair comparison. I would be extremely hard pressed to simply say one driver sounds better then the other.

Not true at all .... Magnet slugs are imported from overseas. SSA is proudly built in USA as are the Sundown sub woofers. Both great USA Based companies. id rather have just a part or two imported from overseas than just about everything from over seas (sundown) im very patriotic to our homeland here either sub u go with you wil be happy. but the zcon has my vote. it has proved itself to me what it can do and im very pleased If you only knew where voice coils, spiders, tinsel leads, cones and surrounds are manufactured. Sundown actually uses american made voice coils on the Zv.3 and NSv.2 sub woofers. Doesn't sundown build their higher end drivers in house too?

Awesome.

I am by no means an expert, but I will try to explain things as I understand. So you buy your amp and wire it down to 2ohm, it's rated for 1000watts at 2ohm. So your speaker is being powered by 1000watts right? Wrong. Aside from having sufficient electrical upgrades, IE: enough to supply the amplifier's current draw, and no voltage drop. The frequency being played, time length, and enclosure alignment will directly effect the impedance at any given point. As impedance rises, power output decreases, and vice versa. General statement. Here's a picture of a driver "wired down to 1ohm" in a ported enclosure: You can see that the impedance varies greatly across the frequency range 10hz to 80hz, and is never near 1ohm. You could play a single frequency and for the most part the impedance will stay around one value, and know: "At 4ohms, the speaker is receiving about 500watts or something." Whether it's relatively distortion free, or completely fubared. Next, Music is dynamic, comprised of various frequencies and different amplitudes. This will cause the impedance to "jump around". As the impedance is ever changing, so is the power output. So now that you sort of know what is happening, and that the impedance is never constant, you can understand that your speaker is never constantly receiving xxx amount of power, unless your playing test tones. It also requires a fair amount more power in order to hear any difference, about twice the amount of power. So having amplifier A rated for 1000watts, and a clamp test showing it can make an additional 200watts, doesn't mean a whole lot in the end (to your ears) On top of the fact that an amplifier can be pushed near it's limits, produce more power, and induce distortion that would be audible, but the clamp test doesn't show anything relating to the distortion level. This post more then anything is to show that getting caught up with numbers isn't always a good idea.

If you don't have a dog, a 5 gal pail with 1" of antifreeze in it works pretty well. Just put it right next to your car. Nice too that it preserves them as they die so they don't smell. Sounds perfect. I'll put it under the car so I don't end up killing some javelina or coyotes. We sold our house last year, didn't quite get what we wanted, but made up on the new one. Hope it sells quickly. And the problem with thinning the javalina population is?... I have to deal with moving the carcass?

Mount them to a piece of cardboard with velcro, try different spots, and hear what sounds best to you.

It's 8 gauge as well. Just to match the rest, or what?

If you don't have a dog, a 5 gal pail with 1" of antifreeze in it works pretty well. Just put it right next to your car. Nice too that it preserves them as they die so they don't smell. Sounds perfect. I'll put it under the car so I don't end up killing some javelina or coyotes. We sold our house last year, didn't quite get what we wanted, but made up on the new one. Hope it sells quickly.

I heard that too, now my car is going to smell like old people. try ceder balls first Will do.

I heard that too, now my car is going to smell like old people.

Anyone here have to deal with packrats making homes in their engine bays? Cocksuckers keep coming back. Generally if I drive it everyday it's not a big issue, but lately it's been bad. We cleared a bunch of cactus and shit where they were making nests near the house. I won't have the hood up over night. I've heard lights can piss them off. Any led kit I could put under the hood, wouldn't draw too much amperage? Or if it used it's own batteries? Any other tricks?

Looks fun Adrian. That should really piss someone off.

I'm starting to reach that "burnt out" / let's rush point. So I threw the pillars and tweeters in for now, but I think I'll end up hacking these to shit or finding some more at a junkyard, and using foam to redo them. The setup sounded very good in the 2way l4 and exodus, and should improve once the kicks are vented, but with the tweets... It's even better. I tried the tweets crossed at 3khz, then bumped it up to 6khz, sound just keeps getting better. I don't think the L4s are quite off-axis enough for any beaming issue, at least none that I can readily hear. Tweets are being powered by the ms8, running out of headroom, but depending on the final xo point, I may not need to "amp" them. Happy guy right here.

Yeah I know it's been around forever, but I just think it's a little over the top.

Building a power wheel stereo. What has our world come to.

Sweet.

Yeah and as you can see, I still made mine sorta big, and wasn't needed. The passenger is pretty well out of the way, the driver could have been trimmed and sanded down more, but it works for me. I'd definitely do a final coat of resin and cab-o-sil. Sand first so the panels are already smooth, then cab-o-sil layer. I haven't sanded the cabosil layer yet, I know it's going to be a lot harder, but it'll stand up to more abuse, and be less prone to scratch. I was looking at rivnut kits online, anywhere from $60 to a few hundred, Julian mentioned a cheapo one from harbor freight, it worked perfectly. If you don't already, I would highly suggest using 3/4 oz chopped mat. For the longest time I was using the regular chopped mat you'd find at home depot, lowes, auto store, and I just assumed for the most part that it wasn't too thick. If you ever go from the regular stuff at the store to 3/4 oz, you will literally laugh, and think: "Oh wow, this shit is really easy now." It's super easy to conform, and even though it requires more layers, they're still super easy to lay on without air bubbles and losing shape. Have fun.

I did a little bit, but I'm mainly going to drill holes out the back to vent them. I know the l4s "come alive" in ib, so it should sound even better once that's done.

trunk wall current peak in stock configuration with my 12s is 55-57 Is this for listening to music, or competing?