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Everything posted by ssh
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zcon 15 box last few question. please help!
ssh replied to SMpaintball78's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
You can find the displacement of each corner brace in cubic feet by: (L*x^2)/6912 where x is the width of the corner brace, and L is length of the brace. Assuming measurements are made in inches. If your wondering how I came up with that: I used pythagoras theorem with a and b being equal, while c is the width of the corner brace. a^2 +b^2 = c^2 rewritten since a and b are equal: 2a^2 = c^2 a^2 = (c^2)/2 a = [(c^2)/2]^0.5 = side lengths area of triangle = (1/2)*base*height Our base and height are equal. so (1/2)*a^2 = (a^2)/4 = area of triangle. Volume would be: [(a^2)/4]*length of brace. So: (L*a^2) / 4 would be the volume in cubic inches. Convert to cubic feet by dividing by 12^3 or 1728. (L*a^2)/6912 -
zcon 15 box last few question. please help!
ssh replied to SMpaintball78's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
I don't see the displacement being enough to drastically change tuning or volume. -
Sweet build. Pillars came out great. I really really like that grill on the icon, I need to find or make something similar for my door speakers. Pretty cool you can still open the false floor with the enclosure in.
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problems to diagnose with set up, advice?
ssh replied to cloud77's topic in Technical Info & How To's
Is the amp actually shutting off when it "skips?" Measure the voltage at the terminals on the input side of the amplifier when your at high volume. You could also disconnect the speaker wires from the amplifier, measure the resistance, to make sure you didn't wire it differently during installation. -
In SF they are on just about every street corner. o_o
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I got one as a stocking stuffer last year. Took a while to get use to, but flew pretty well until the plastic blades bent from crashing into the walls.
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Partially attributed by using maybe a spoon-full of filler for both kicks, and whole pieces of chopped strand mat.
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Kicks match the exterior, but bring in a little "rice" feel to inside now? I'm content. Each set better then the last.
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Kick start the golden generator Sweet talk but don't intimidate her Can't stop the gods from engineering Feel no need for any interfering Your image in the dictionary This life is more than ordinary Can I get 2 maybe even 3 of these Come from space To teach you of the pliedes Can't stop the spirits when they need you This life is more than just a read thru
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Use the same depth and height, with port on same face, then you can do back, up, and forward? I remember reading something about not using equal dimension lengths, but I'm somewhat skeptical about it being noticable in subbass frequencies.
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North go south, south go north, during summer eh. Perhaps the beginning of January will be my spot, otherwise I'm limited to the middle of dec, or end of may to middle of august.
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You are young! In some regards.
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It can in particular if you are flexible on your in/out dates. I would add though that a bit more dough to up the food ante is well worth it. Splurge once a week when in good spots to do so. Well worth the credit it'll take. Somewhat flexible on dates, summer works, but I'm guessing air fare is more then. I have a few breaks through out the year that may work better. IE: end of march, end of november. I'll have to mark out all the dates I have free, and see what typically runs cheaper. I'll plan on booking in advance for a lower rate, say six months at least. Wouldn't mind spending extra on good food here and there, but don't mind eating basics for trimming some costs. I'm shooting for around the end of this year.
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Reading that makes me feel young again.
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zcon 15 box last few question. please help!
ssh replied to SMpaintball78's topic in SPL & SQ / Fabrication
45's are required, they will lesson port noise, but audibly, you probably won't even notice the difference. It's all up to you, if you want to go that extra mile with your enclosure build. Good luck. will it help the score any on the meter?? haha Perhaps a few tenths. -
As Rick said, just sand it. You could do it in five minutes by hand with a sanding block.
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Heh, I was wondering "msg?"
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Like the pictures.
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Anyone gone backpacking across Europe? My art teacher told me he went during college. Got a pass for the euro rail, to go country to country. Said he slept on the rail at night, didn't have to pay for any hotels, and ate cheap at the markets. I'd be down for sleeping on trains, using hostels, and eating cheap. Rount trip plane ticket, euro rail pass, and cheap food for two weeks, think it can be done for under $2500?
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Does the controller allow you to remotely change the temperature?
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Just looked at the mini version for camping, and trips up into the mountains. hmm hmm hmm. Probably won't be lugging around 30lbs for backpacking, but camping.
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Primerd: Painted with oem volvo paint. I barely had enough to cover the kicks. Installed: I may end up making some trim rings around the lip, haven't decided yet. A-pillars are still outside sitting on the table, waiting for some love.
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This isn't really a "how to" considering I didn't take a lot of pictures, and I don't really know what I'm doing, but people can learn from my mistakes and what I've learned in the last year. First mess up, didn't use any mold release between the tape and laying down the mat. Usually people use wax or some spray, even spam? I don't know, but I f#cked that part up. Trimmed the panels down. Used non-hardening clay to angle the baffles. Since I'm using small baffles with relatively light drivers, and low depth, the clay held the shape well for aiming, and everything. If your using larger drivers then clay may not suffice. I propose a toast: to 2-part expanding foam. I sorta forgot about the endothermic reaction during the expanding foam's curing, it got hot enough that it started melting the clay. Luckily the curing process was extremely fast, and didn't actually allow the baffles to be moved in any way. catalyst ratios on notecard, wax paper for laying down mat, and applying resin first. I'm using 3/4 oz chopped mat in multiple layers, and general purpose polyester based resin. On one of the kicks, I laid down one single piece of mat (already wet'd out), but it didn't want to contour around the bottom edges. So once it cured I had to cut the bottom edging all the way around, and do strips for the seam. On the second kick, I used pieces, and since the 3/4 oz mat is so thin, it was easy to maintain a smooth surface, even with adding more and more layers on. Tomorrow is sanding, one coat of resin+cab-o-sil, and sanding. I have to wait a few days for primer and paint to show up. In the mean time I'll mount the kicks, and make sure everything works as planned.