ssh

So I guess the only thing the top will really help do is block the sound coming out of my jeep?.... And that will suck if the CLD fails and peels off... I was hoping that it would not get as hot as most vehicals since the top is fiberglass and not sheet metal but I guess I'll find out this summer. Could you give me any tips for doing my floor, body, and doors? My main goal is stop road noise, and be able to block the sound from the inside would be nice to.... could play my highs a little louder and not have to worry about annoying other people. CLD over large sheet metal sections, approx 25% coverage will reduce the panel resonance. This will work over body, floor, and door panels. (If the metal panel is curved, ie: fender well, it may not need any clds because the shape will strengthen the metal and change it's resonance.) MLV over entire area to create a sound barrier. CCF between mlv and plastic panels so they don't rattle against each other. I don't have any pictures of when I applied the cld and ccf, but here's an idea of what the mlv for the door may look like: Also another mentioned checking out the sds Mazda build. It has tons of pictures on doing everything.

I park in the lot furthest from my classes, and people wonder why. I figure a little extra walking is good.

I've been away from the forum for a day or so, and so far I've read a bunch of stupid bickering and nonsense, WTF?! I'm sticking to the IHOP for now on.

Put up some cameras at each spot.

No problem. Sundown recommends: "0.5-0.75 ft^3 @ 35hz" per sa8. Each driver has a displacement of 0.08 ft^3 So 3x0.5 to 3x0.75 + 3x0.08 = 1.75 ft^3 to 2.5 ft^3 So try to and shoot for the volume of the enclosure between 1.75 ft^3 and 2.5 ft^3 before the port displacement. *The larger enclosure will yield an increase in efficiency, but that doesn't necessarily mean the extra 0.75 ft^3 will make a huge difference either in this situation. Start a build log once you get the stuff in, and cutting away.

When I saw red for the last post I figured electronic/house was in store. Queen - Radio Ga Ga

I've never played with trunks, so I'm not sure what firing orientation is best. Generally firing back seems to work well as a forum census. Slot or round, either way. Slot is cheaper, just cutting more wood, but psp aeros are simple (but somewhat costly). The flaring on the round aero ports reduces turbulence, so sometimes you can get away with less port area if your space restricted.

Everything I hear about the sa series is stellar, especially the sa8s. Can't go wrong either way.

Don't get caught up with matching speakers' rms values to your amplifier's rating. 3 sa8s on that amp would be nice, or even 2 sa12s.

I'd opt for cone area over power since it sounds like you have plenty of space, it would certainly be cheaper.

Why are you using one less driver, and one more amp? Your asking for help, but haven't specified your goals, budget, or space restrictions either.

Fuckkkkkkk.

I looked up your amp specs, and it does have a ssf, aka hpf, high pass filter, but it only goes down to 45hz, which isn't very helpful in your situation. Where do you have the hpf set to? It goes from 45 to 90.

Couple things: Once the amp is maxed out, it will not get louder. Depending on the gain setting, the amp can be maxed out at 10/30, 15/30, 20/30, 45/60, etc. So your volume numbers and loudness doesn't equate too much. The prefab enclosure is probably tuned somewhat high in comparison to what people normally do, and since your amp has no sub-sonic filter, your sub woofers are being "allowed" to play a large frequency range where they can reach their mechanical limits, xmax, excursion. This can possibly damage your sub woofers, and it's limiting the rest of their potential in the "useable range" being enclosure tuning frequency to 90hz(lpf setting). Whether or not your enclosure is decent, or up to par for your needs, I don't know. You could use an f-mod inline ssf from harrison-labs, but that would require knowing the enclosure's tuning, which you could find out with a dmm and clamp meter I believe. Or use some adjustable crossover system. Personally, I would sell the amp, get something with a ssf, and possibly replace the enclosure with something custom built.

ssf on amp? Ported enclosure?

Do something with the battery man. Wouldn't want to be in an accident, or make any sharp turns.

I guess I should have started with the basics. What drivers? Enclosure specs? Where is the sub-sonic filter (ssf) set to? Low pass filter (lpf)? Has the gain been adjusted, or set accordingly to your max listening volume on the head-unit?

In lieu of the door handles? Did the college teach anything on fiberglass, or done it before? (kick panels)

Me too! I have another wild hair up my ass.

Don't make more work for yourself if it can be avoided. Your still doing suicide doors right?

Check your engine mounts and cradle bushings. I had the engine mounts replaced 2k miles ago, and if that was the issue then wouldn't it cause vibration during reving while in neutral? Not that I know much about any of it, just clarifying. Thanks Not really as there is no load on the engine and trans. Once in gear, different story.

Those numbers are somewhat arbitrary, ie: I could technically have my subs playing the loudest at volume 10 on my head-unit, even though it goes up to 35. As you raise the volume on the head-unit, it increases the signal voltage going to the amplifiers. This causes the amp to produce more power, but the relationship between how much you adjust the volume on the head-unit to reach the amp's max output is based on the gain setting on the amp. IE: gain set low on amp, so you have to turn the head-unit to 25/30 to get the amp to it's max. IE: gain set high on amp, so you have to turn the head-unit to 15/30 to get the amp to it's max. Don't use these numbers for setting anything up, just a crude example. If you haven't already, search for the forum for "setting gain" or "setting the gain." Once the proper / high signal voltage is reached in combination with the gain set correctly, the amp will produce it's max power, and turning the volume up more will only introduce clipping and distortion. -------------------------- So perhaps your reaching your amp's max power at volume 40 on the head-unit, and anything past that is not getting louder, but clipping and distorting. Otherwise I don't see any reason as to why the bass would be quieter when you turn the volume up. You tune a ported enclosure to a frequency, and depending on what frequency you choose, will have different effects on the loudness at different frequency ranges. So you would NOT tune your enclosure to "40" or "62" because those are the numbers from your volume. Generally for car audio, most people tune around 30hz to 40hz, but there are always exceptions for different applications.

Didn't notice that until you mentioned it. What where your eyes looking for? Nothing. The contrast caught my attention.

This. Even if the voltage is say 12.6v doesn't mean it's "good." Put it on a load three times the battery's AH rating or half of it's cold cranking amp rating. Do it for 5-10seconds, if the battery drops below 9.5v then it's likely bad. Also if it's really cold out when you do the test, that will reduce the voltage. 70degree+ for 9.5v. 9.4 for 50degree, 9.3v for 40degree. Hope that helps.

Looks nice, best of both worlds between all the enclosures, and power headroom.