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Everything posted by ssh
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Figured you'd like that.
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Different table saw. First one was traditional, then second one was the fancy one.
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4/0 Cable vs Knu CCA and Kolossus
ssh replied to shizzzon's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Comparing different (advertised and sized) wire to each other, and not even listing where to buy the 4/0 cable. I don't see how this is helpful to anyone. -
Why not just build one large enclosure out of FG? If the overall height doesn't become an issue then this sounds like it would be way easier. Plus it wouldn't have to be as deep.
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Hmm, that's a lot of work if you went the fiberglass route. Perhaps something on mcmaster carr will work.
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Sean, how many enclosures are you planning on?
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You have so many deer always at your place! *Posting this while making a dryer for jerky*
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When I said they would sound worse, I was speculating that the crossover point for the mb-quart driver isn't close to a good crossover point for the crescendo super-tweeters. I could be wrong, but I would find it extremely surprising if their crossover points were similar enough to produce good results. IE: for simplicity's sake, I have two speakers, A and B. Speaker A & B are both advertised with a frequency response of 60hz to 20khz. Well this is basically bullshit, but in reality Speaker A performs well from 60hz to 2000hz, and Speaker B performs well from 2000hz and up. So you would conclude that a cross over point between each speaker at 2000hz would be great, except if you spend more then five minutes tuning, you'll find that the overall sound quality will be improved when adjusting this cross over point up or down, AND the slope of the cross over (the degree of attenuation). Nothing is set in stone, and speakers will perform differently in different environments, so a active processing unit is key. A passive crossover network is a generally a plastic box going inline from your amps to your speakers, it uses a circuit board composed of various parts to create a specific crossover point and slope. With active processing, you can adjust the cross over point and slope to your liking. Some higher end amps allow you to adjust the filters and slopes on-board, higher end head-units also have these features, and actual digital processing units such as: rockford 3sixty.2/.3, audison bit.one, jbl ms8, etc are fed the signal from the head-unit, split it up to separate channels, then new signals are sent to amp(s).
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Unless the two passive networks you plan on using happen to have the same cross over points, you would be left with a gap where they don't "mate." IE: speaker A is crossed over at 1000hz, and speaker B is crossed over at 2000hz. Now you have this frequency range (1000hz to 2000hz) that is highly attenuated to the point that neither speaker will "cover" it, and overall it just won't sound right. If you aren't willing to spend the money for some sort of active processing unit, then you would overall be better off with a component set in my opinion.
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Pascalc, I have very similar goals to you, and frankly that "impact" from percussion instruments to the chest was centered around the midbass area, and not necessarily the typical subwoofer range, as mentioned above. Certainly the use of a subwoofer can add or "complete" some of that feeling, but after switching from excessive bass (flexing steering wheel, etc) + lacking midbass to toned down bass + upgrade in midbass region, I can say the latter is personally way more enjoyable, and exactly what I was striving for from the git-go (I just didn't know I would use the money appropriated for the rear speakers, for new front speakers. As large as you can fit. Assuming your front speakers will be mounted in your doors, proper sound deadening treatment to them can improve midbass.
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Cone area will be your friend. The installation / enclosure alignment of the speaker will also effect it's midbass output among other things. How are you planning on crossing over the speakers? Use the original passive network from the mb-quart set for the mid and super-tweeters? If so, don't be surprised if it ends up sounding worse.
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didn't know the wolves were even playing, lol. I don't usually have time for TV and at 67-53 I think I'll leave it off . Me either, but lately I've been watching the Suns play.
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Yeah its full of great information, and misinformation. Makes it hard to know what's true at times. Lately I've been reading whitepapers from researchers, doctors, etc, and even it can be misleading, or simply cherry pick certain results from a study to support their hypothesis.
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Watching the basketball game Sean?
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http://www.squidoo.com/cooler-insulation
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Is yours force-air cooled? Not sure. BOSCH AL9409X It's an oem replacement, not high output unfortunately. Although the current stock alt is doing a terrible job charging, according to the local volvo shop, it may be the regulator / computer failing. Possibly a failing starter as well (trouble starting sometimes). I'm not sure how to test the starter. Shops going to check the regulator / computer / wiring under the car, install the new alt if needed / replace regulator, and check the vibration in the front.
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4/9 squats - 120 dips - 36 rows - 36 chin-ups - 30 push-ups - 60 back lever, front lever (6sec each) - 6 Meal: 100g whey isolate, cup of berries, cup of cottage cheese, cup of butter-nut squash, one potato, smoked salmon, and steak.
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Bosch alt showed up.
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And I thought it was FedEx I was waiting for. Just showed up, it was UPS.
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Okay I'm understanding it better now. Okay how about: lay flat pieces of insulation on sides, and bottom. Then make a wood shell, half inch shorter or something on sides, that drops in. Before gluing/screwing the wood panels together for the shell, cover them in some resin. Then drop that in, and fill any voids between the shell and insulation with expanding foam. Sand down the excess foam that comes over the top, then use a little mat and resin over the top to make it sealed and flush. Sorta sounds like what you were already thinking?
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Can never have too many voltage meters After I am sure the P99RS is reading right I will more than likely remove the other one. Did you have an issue with an idler pulley setup you made? No, it's just something I wouldn't rig up.
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I did an L-sit chin-up today. I couldn't even lift my legs to the ninety degree position a few weeks ago.