ssh

I know the wall added some weight to the car, but I think you'll find that as time goes on, the car will gradually start getting lighter and lighter as body panels, nuts & bolts fall off.

How often do you crash into trees and branches?

I know your not one to watch movies, but I never forgot that line.

IIRC they act as a larger sealed enclosure, which can be beneficial in this case when you want more volume, but are restricted to the kick panel area.

The APs vent out into the fenderwell.

Whichever makes better use of the space in the vehicle. well its going in my van so probably width. Can you explain to me more what port speed is and all that stuff i'm learning yet and i am not sure what that means Vent mach / Port speed is the speed at which air is being excited in the port(s). An increase in port area causes this speed to go down. If you don't have enough port area, the speed will be too high, and the port can cause audible noise (ie: chuffing sound), and it can also limit potential output (loudness) due to port compression. As to what an acceptable port speed thus port area is, it's going to vary from one person or program to another. Generally in car audio you can get away with a higher port speed because the enclosure is in the cargo area or trunk, so the port noise may not be heard, and a smaller port is often times easier to fit for those who want to tune "low." You can copy all the T/S specs of the ssa gcon into WinISD (google it), input your box specs, and it'll show the vent mach / port speed. Depending on the version of WinISD you have, it may show the results as a decimal, and in that case, it suggests staying under 0.15 Which is 15% of the speed of sound, so in meters per second, 340.29*0.15 = 51 m/s or in feet per second 1126*0.15 = 169 ft/s I've read on forums where others thought one should stay under even less, and I've read a few papers that suggested under 10 m/s, but they were also geared toward Home Theater then car audio. If you use flared aero ports then you may be able to get away with less port area then you would require with a traditional slotted port, but they are also relatively pricey compared to a sheet of mdf.

Barrel is 20", but I figure a suppressor is going to add some length, so I didn't want to be swinging around a 2x4. Yeah I'm not too sure what all the Atlas would do that would lead me to spend three times or more the cost of the Harris, but what do I know!

With the Harris, or in general? The bipod alone doesn't weigh much. If you took it on and off, you wouldn't really notice. Overall the rifle may seem a little heavy to some, but personally I don't notice it being bad or an annoyance. I plan on getting a drag bag later and doing some hiking with it too. How it sits: That's the standard hbr 6-9 model. Easy to take on and off if need be (although I don't plan on it), and it's very stable. It's actually pretty wild how stable the picture becomes when looking through the glass. You can pull down the legs and they'll pop into full extension, or simply pull part way, and twist the knobs to lock in place. Push some buttons on the legs, and they shoot back in. I got the model with the regular standard legs, but they also offer it in one with notched legs, which is probably a little nicer when adjusting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkhlRBLOP_M

Happy Birthday Sean! If I woulda known sooner I'd ship some Corona and Tequila. Enjoy the night.

Not saying to name it that, but figured if I didn't quote it, you wouldn't watch.

Can I haz cheezeburger in car? *meow*

Awe man, as fucked up as it is, I can't stop laughing at how ridiculous it is.

I plastic-dip my interior dawg!

I assumed he was going off of my dimensions... which did indeed take into account displacements I saw you said: "L-style slot port that is 6 inches wide and a total of 30 inches wide." So 30" width, and 6" height? What about length?

Have you figured out your port dimensions, port area, and port length for tuning? And also took into account port displacement and driver placement from the enclosure volume?

No i know that lol i meant dimmension wise where on the top? centered? or offset or does it not matter? Performance wise, as long as the driver isn't right next to the port, then it shouldn't matter really. Aesthetically, well I don't have to spell it out.

I can only imagine. You guys don't have any hipaa violations to worry about, post them up.

If so, bad idea. Depending on the coil configuration on the drivers, you would be better off wiring all three together on the existing amplifier. Before purchasing another driver, how do you feel about your current enclosure? Did you build it, or a shop? Do you know the specs as far as volume and tuning? Reason I ask is the enclosure plays a HUGE part in the end result.

Whichever makes better use of the space in the vehicle.

Why those cheap internet copy subs? I love mine, but I do not do hair tricks or tried, I just enjoylistening to music like it was recorded. Maybe I'll do a hairtrick for you guys with my back hair. It will be sweet. Kind of look like grass in a field blowing in the wind..... sounds peaceful. Ah fuck.

Look where he put his speakers. Idiot!

You've put some thought into this I see.

Of course I've also heard he's getting a bunch of xcons / zcons instead of the Sundowns. He doesn't know what he wants.

39.5" width, 24" height, 15.5" depth After subtracting 0.75" from depth of the enclosure for accounting for double baffle, you'd get: 6.55599ft^3 Then port displacement, and you'll be well under 5ft^3