ssh

Nothing good will come out of simply putting parts together that "fit."

Well are you expecting it to match your subs near full tilt, or rather have some nice impact at regular listening levels with the subs turned down?

His house is going to be raided now. 3...2....1.... govt have no sense of humor.

guess what Sean, I ate Hormel Chili yesterday and was happy with it. your just to picky. I bet you have a herb garden in your basement in the winter so you always have the freshest herbs. This is Sean's basement:

It's suppose to snow later today. We'll see if it beats two weeks ago's snow.

Matt, or anyone else interested, have you ever heard of NutriTiming https://nutritiming.com/ It was made by some doctor. Input height, weight, age, etc. Comes up with a resting energy expenditure. Input what you ate for the day, and at what times, and what physical activity. Then it shows for each hour if you're in a caloric deficit or surplus. Supposedly it's common use with fancy athletes, or big people as you can see where they aren't eating enough, or eating too much. Anyway I messed with it just for kicks, and won't be using it, so now I have 30 days left on my account until it expires. Anyone want it? Basically if you already know your BMR/RMR/REE, track what you eat already, and know how to use MET tables then it's nothing revolutionary.

Well those numbers are going to vary a bit because the cone size on one 6.5 driver is likely different than another 6.5 driver (ie: different brands, models, etc), but whatever point one beams at, the other will too. Honestly it doesn't make ANY sense to use multiple drivers to avoid beaming issues, and then turn around, and create more issues from the use of multiple drivers. Reread Impious' posts. I think you would be surprised how much midbass output one can get out of 7-8" OD driver in a proper install. The only issue is expecting it to keep up with your subs at full tilt. In that case you need to prioritize what exactly you want, and what exactly your willing to compromise for it.

Pretty much. I've actually been getting 1.34lb packets of 85% lean 15% fat ground beef from Costco, half gallon of lactose free whole milk, pre wo shake, post wo shake, dinner with veggies, and I'm finally up where I need to be. Eating that much ground beef every other day perhaps isn't the best idea, but it's working for a few weeks until I rotate to something else.

If only it wasn't with PB and oats. No PB for you? You could just omit those and add some flax oil, or if that is too close to eating grains coconut oil. Skip the milk and use more creme is another way. I tried it the other day with whole milk, ice cream, and eggs. The PB floated to the top in little pieces, and it was rough drinking it. On the flip side I can drink plain water with BCAA, or raw eggs, and neither bother me. Something about the smell of PB and trying to drink it made me want to hurl.

I never measured at the kickpanel or windshield so in my particular vehicles I don't know, but generally it seems like a difference of a few dB--someone with more competition experience could give a better guess.

Beaming will occur when the frequency wavelength is less than or equal to the diameter of the cone. Make sure your units are the same: wavelength(cm) = 34029 (cm) / frequency (hz), so: Beaming Frequency (hz) = 34029 (cm) / diameter from Sd in cm Sd being T/S value for surface area of cone. IE: Exodus ex-anarchy driver: Sd: 131cm^2, area circle = pi*radius^2, so squareroot(131/pi)=radius=6.457, radius*2=diameter, 6.457*2=12.9cm 34029 / 12.9 = 2638hz So this driver, or any other driver with the Sd in the same realm would start to beam around 2638hz. If you know the cone diameter in inches then you could also do 13397 / diameter(in). Ultimately you'd want to be using measurements for the cone, and not the overall diameter of the driver. IE: Exodus ex-anarchy driver cone diameter = ~5", and OD is ~7" 13397/5=2679hz, 13397/7=1913hz That's a significant difference. ------------------------------------------------------------------- So a rudimentary answer to 8" mid and 6.5" mid would be: 8" OD, so let's say the cone diameter is 7", 13397/7 = 1913hz 6.5" OD, ~5.5", 13397/5.5 = 2435hz

142.3dB @ 44hz @ headrest jeep TJ hardtop -- 1 18" Fi BL + ~1000w 146.7dB @ 40hz @ headrest. volvo v40 -- 2 15" SSA Xcons + ~1000w

If only it wasn't with PB and oats.

AA meetings were rescheduled.

40hz sine wave + bass shakers in my crotch is my favorite way to kill a Tuesday afternoon.

How much output are you expecting out of this? IE: Trying to somewhat match the 2 15" Icons? If so WB may become problematic. Perhaps Impious knows of a "magic" WB with less compromises to the output department, or I'm wrong on my last statement about output being an issue.

That's wild. You ever get one of those GoPro helmet cams? I haven't. Still too spendy for limited utility IMO. Do you have one? I had one of the OG gopros, and it sucked. Then I got a contourHD as it was sharper, better framerate. Now they have a newer contourHD and a few newer gopros, of which they all look badass, but are indeed a chunk of money.

That's settled then! Yes on-axis means pointed directly at the listener. Get the OD of the WB drivers you're looking at, cut out paper circles with the same diameters, and make sure you can actually fit it in the a-pillar section. Checking for depth wouldn't be a bad idea either.

I saw it. It was JIMBEAM Ain't seen that bastard in YEARS. You have--you just don't remember.

I certainly don't know how much room he has in the pillar sections, and have always leaned towards a 2-way setup, but in this instance it doesn't seem like it would be that much more work (for a beginner) to jump to a 3-way, and use some small tweeters where the WB start dropping off. I mean one could certainly spend weeks finding that perfect XO point, slope, and filter type between the WB and tweet, but this doesn't seem like a stretch to get the mid and WB tuned, then move on to the tweet. Only reason I brought it up as feasible is that the tweeters would have a pretty narrow bandwidth at such a high frequency that it would be harder to mistune. Though this may require an additional amp, more space, money, another dsp, and more effort than what the reward is worth. What do you think?

the closest car audio shop is nothing but salesman and ive never been 2 a car audio comp or heard a real system noone around me knows much everything i know ive read on forums online mostly smd Honestly out of all the car audio comps I've been to I hadn't met very many knowledgeable people.

That's wild. You ever get one of those GoPro helmet cams?

I guarantee if you come muskie fishing with me even if you catch nothing you'll need Advil to deal with pain afterAre you noodlin' them?Lawl. I'd love to see some neck try that with a muskie. I loss m'yer hand! "Hold my beer."

That's one of the shittiest installs I've seen--thanks for sharing.

Should have epic output at the end of the day. *jealous*