Adrian_D

Happy Birthday !!!

I personally wouldn't go with less than 75w considering your substage.

Shouldn't be too much of a problem. Just find the correct size and calculate the rezistor you need to wire in series with the LED. Google : LED calculator or something similar...I didn't bookmark the links.

Damn, that looks bad. Hope nobody got hurt ? How did it happen ?

14 gallons of bondo

I think it's the recording though...Stream of consciousness sounds good.

I need to try the songs in the car. Something seems fishy....

After reading what things he's doing with that car...

Listening to Dream theater - When day and dream unite. Mid-bass is lacking...I really need to port the ca18's

OK, that confusing. Even in you last post you're contradicting yourself. Do you really need to have output below 20 Hz ? Are you sure there is a bit of music variety with that freqeuncy extension ? Because it's going to get really old really fast listening to the same 5 songs over and over and over and over. You also need to realise that the lower you go the more energy you need for your ears to perceve the same effect. This turns your "goal" into an uphill battle IMO. Seems to me that you're trying to beat Hoffman's Iron Law. Lots of drivers in a small space, with lots of output and very low frequency extension...

I don't get it. You want lots of low-end output, but a car like Meade's is too much for you. You want to protect your subs by tuning them lower ? I remember I simulated a sub tuned well below it's fs and, surprise, according to the software you could over-excurt it with program between the fs and the port tuning. 2 sealed 15's are too much for you. Then why bother with tuning extremely low ?

Linkin Park - Crawling

Nonpoint - Bullet with a name

Linkin Park - A place for my head

Nonpoint - Alive and kicking

The way I understand it (haven't used a low-tuned box in a car...yet) is that because of the cabin-gain involved in a vehicle, the lower the tuning, the lowest frequencies will be very accentuated and you will end up with a low-end monster, that's going to lack a lot in the higher part (50-60) and that is not cool. Someone correct me on that if i'm wrong. Protecting the subwoofer from that ultra-low ocntent is the job of the subsonic filter.

After seeing what this can do I really want a laptop

The Kicker Warhorse is far more impressive IMO. Especially looking at the internals

I diy'ed a circle jig Works very nice.

More power ! Yikes. Nice 4 channel btw

Now that i'm going to have big power available in the home setup i thought about upgrading to an 18. And i found an 05 xxx Any thoughts on using it for the home setup ? There also is a chance i could go IB.

I think I could pull out the seat in the car and run them in the car for a bit. You were reffering to run the fully built boxes like this, right ? Only trouble is I stilll haven't tweaked the car (still unregistered) so my experience with the processing is minimal

As some may know i'm using a Seas CA18rnx and a cheapo tweeter as the mains. I've bought a pair of Peerles HDS tweeters and now it's time to design something better that what i have now. 1st problem are the enclosures. The sealed ones are lacking a bit of mid-bass and by the looks of Zaph's waveguide TMM graphs ported seems to open up the low-end. side view : http://www.zaphaudio.com/WaveguideTMM-2-3.pdf I thought about using the top part of the enclosure in the plans since i only have a pair of mids. Anything wrong with that ? 2nd problem : the crossover part. Should i start with first order slopes and try out some diffrent inductor and capacitor values (ie for 2khz, 2.5khz...)?

I thought so Thanks for the help so far

Where's the CPR team ? Working on Stallone. . . . Another Rambo????? Who is he kidding? There was another Rocky, so why not continue with Rambo ? Let's not forget the latest Die Hard. I hate those movies