BanginGMC

Email him and tell him what and how much?

See link.. Db electrical h/o alternators any good?

Little update: I got one panel painted and the other one is ready, i weighed the wood to see if it'll really take an effect. Both 3/4 pieces weighs in at:

120 ina 04 dodge ram when i was 15, it was the best.

Did you think about using The Second Skin Sludge

This is what I did. That solid piece will make the door very heavy. And I did mean to say round over the edges. Not only heavy, but acoustically terrible in comparison. The wood is pretty light, its waaaay lighter then MDF. I was thinking about using self tapping screws and attach it like that. If i was to bolt it how would i be able to hold the bolt and tighten the nut when the door panel would be against the door? I'm going to buy carpet or suede today, the wood is painted black. Will post pictures today.

Yeah i tried looking for some build logs on that s10 forum but no luck. Next is SM.

Thanks, and yeah i'll take you up on that offer.

Nope, well.. not for audio. It's going to be my Daily Driver Show Truck. Sort of an oxymoron there isn't it? Ina sense yes, but not really.. there is a class when competing in some car shows called Daily Driver. Thank bro!

I need helping figuring out how to go about getting 6.5s in the doors of my 86 GMC Sonoma. As some of you might know that S Series trucks (S15s and S10s) around that year didn't come with door speakers from the factory, only dash and back panels. I never fiberglassed before so if possible i would like to stay away from that.. but if i must i will take on the challenge, if i could get away with just putting a sheet of MDF on the door and cut holes for my 6.5s that would be great.. but i don't think there is enough space between the door and where the MDF would sit because there was no speaker in before hand so GMC didn't give it the room for speakers so somehow i have to make the MDF come out a la few inches, i don't know how to do so.. this is why i come to you guys, so you can throw out some ideas for me. I am going to be using Type R 6.5 component set, in the near future (summer) i will be doing 4 sets in the doors but for now only one set. I will probably get a PDX amp to power them. (would like to put the tweets in the doors as well.) See how there is like NO gap/extra space between the door panel and sheet metal

Stick with the 18

SAZ-1000D Rated power output: ----RMS power, 2 ohm linkable/dual mono 1800W x 1CH ----RMS power, 1 ohm mono 1000W x 1CH ----RMS power, 2 ohm mono 600W x 1CH ----RMS power, 4 ohm mono 300W x 1CH Signal to Noise Ratio >90dB Low pass frequency crossover 35Hz~300Hz Subsonic filter 10Hz~60Hz Bass boost @ 45Hz 0~18dB Phase shift control 0~180 degree Frequency response 10Hz~350Hz (+/- 1dB) T.H.D @ 4 ohm <0.1% Efficiency @ 4 ohm 86% Fuse rating 25A x 3 Input Sensitivity 200mV to 6V (+/- 5%) Dimensions 252(W) x 58(H) x 294(L)mm SPECIFICATIONS: Digital Class-D Linkable Mono Block Amplifier Double Sided Through Hole Epoxy PCB 1 Ohm Stability Efficiency : 86% @ 4 ohm, at 100Hz 24dB/Oct Variable Crossover Multi-Way Protection Circuitry (Thermal/Over Current/Speaker Short/Speaker DC Protection) RCA Line Input and Master Output 24dB Octave Crossover Slope Variable Subsonic Filter Variable Bass Boost Variable Low Pass Filter Variable Phase Shift Four(4) Gauge Power Supply Connectors Tested Voltage & THD : 14.4V & Less than 1% THD Operating Voltage : DC 10V~16V Wired Remote Controller MSRP $499 USD SAE-1200D V.2 SPECIFICATIONS: 1200 x 1 watts @ 1 ohm 600 x 1 watts @ 2 ohms 300 x 1 watts @ 4 ohms 0.153v - 5.6v adjustable input sensitivity RCA Line-Out Jack 15 Hz - 250 Hz Frequency Response > 90 dB S/N Ratio 4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current) 50 Hz - 250 Hz adjustable 12dB Low-Pass Crossover 15 Hz - 50 Hz adjustable 12dB Subsonic Filter 0 or 180 degree adjustable phase switch 0 - 12 dB adjustable bass boost with 60 Hz center frequency Wired Remote Control unit included 5x 30 Amp Internal Fuses 17" L x 10.6" W x 2.2" H MSRP $499 USD

Cannot decide on equipment untill i know what i can fit. EDIT: and if i'm capable of getting the enclosure built, -- reason for making this thread. I don't want to be stuck with equipment and no home for them. BUT i do have one of the amps already

Nope, well.. not for audio. It's going to be my Daily Driver Show Truck. I have researched for a while, but most build logs i find aren't very descriptive, they say what they done, but now how or why. If you have any, PM me links Yeah thats what i think too.

Made a build log, check it out if you're interested

Money adds up quick when you are modding your ride with high performance parts but a easy 40hp gain is replacing your engine fan with an electric one. EDIT!!!!: 10hp!

Glendale.

Are you by loveland by chance?

PDX1000 FTMFGDWMF!!!!

This might not be what you want to hear but i don't think it'd be worth it. How much does your box weigh? - 250-350 pounds with sub?.. that's about two passengers. I don't think two passengers would make your car go slow. My 2 cents.

Yeah! I need them prices man

I'm going to be running (2) 6.5 Alpine Type R component sets and i need to know what amp would YOU choose and WHY. Audioque: Amps: AQ4X90 Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - I'm leaning towards the PDX.

It'd probably be possible to have a seizure from all the vibration and noise.. imagine if your driving on the highway and that happens.. OR! You're sitting in your driveway and giving yourself a demo then you have a seizure and no one if there to help then your tongue blocks your windpipe..

First, before you start reading my thread.. i must let you know: I am NOT looking for your thoughts about how this will make my truck look. The style i am going for is what i like and what i want, if you don't like it, that's okay.. but don't make a post saying you don't like it, thank you fellow SSA members. Now lets get started! My truck, the one that is in my Signature.. its a "show truck" and i am in the market for a lift kit or bagged so i can raise it so i am able to fit 26-28" rims and still have a big enough turning radius for daily driving. THIS: http://www.pimped-ou...ar-pictures.jpg As of now, the truck is lowered a couple inches, not dramatically.. barley noticeable unless you know a thing or two about lowered trucks. I have 20" rims (the ones in my signature) and i have a nice amount of tire, i don't have the size off the top of my head.. and i have a OK turning radius, enough for daily driving though.. but, in tight parking spots i have to take wide turns, sometimes back up.. pull up.. back up.. pull up.. all that fun stuff, ya know? QUESTIONS: What would be the best option for me? Lift kit or Air ride. What should i watch out for so shops don't fuck me? - or fuck my truck up. Whats the CONS for a lift kit? - in my application Whats the CONS for air ride? - in my application What would YOU do.. air ride or lift kit, and why? Would i need a lot of fabrication work done? ----------- As you can tell.. i am just in need of as much information i need so i do get the correct application and don't end up getting my truck completely fucked up. My truck is MY truck i take pride in it and the time spent on it. PLEASE, IF THERE IS ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD KNOW THAT I LEFT OUT LET ME KNOW! EDIT: I got an estimate on a lift +install [ he said some fabrication will be needed ] that would fit 26" rims for 4-5k, he seen my truck in person.. but did not actually check it out. ( It was at a car show and he had his booth set up across the parking lot and i pointed which truck was mine so he'd know what i am talking about.) NOTE: I will NOT be doing the install. A shop will.