Infinitelybaffled

Do you honestly thing that corroded battery terminals or a bad ground could cause unwanted current draw from the amp? I only have a basic understanding in electronics but that does NOT seem right to me haha. I am only 18 and just going to be a senior in high school so I am by farrrrrrrrrrrrrrr a pro from this kind of stuff. I would assume that I am using the wrong fuse or the amp is getting a signal when the car is off or something. Tomorrow (Or today for that matter) I will check with an anmeter to see exactly how much current is being pulled though. Thanks for the help though!

Ya... I tapped into the factory 6x9's in the back...I have an anmeter and I also have a SAZ-1500D that I can trade amps with......Is it possible that the amp is faulty and is drawing current? It does not seem like a common amplifier problem and + this amp works great! The problem is that it is not my car and I only have limited time that I can work on with this car. EDIT: The toggle switch seems like a great idea as well other than the fact that if you forget to turn it off the batt will die. Id say a huge problem is that I looked at his battery and it looks a litttle bigger than a kinetik 800 lol and it is factory so any MINIMAL current draw could have a HUGE impact on his car I am begging him to put an extra battery in the back and he refuses.

I'll be holding onto this one I've had it for almost 10 years... it's a bit of a Frankenstein inside from being repaired / modded of the years -- which is why all the others blew and it didn't *laughs* You have been doing stuff in car audio since you were a teenager? Thats crazy!

Loud as hell. Fuckin awesome! And my favorite vid of this truck...

Saw this IRL today and it is definitely the most unique motor structure I have ever seen. It sucks that I didn't see it get to play or anything though...

Wow. fail haha It didnt post il just give a link haha http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=lf#!/photo.php?pid=326590&id=100000557885096&ref=fbx_album

Sounds like Pipo..... Il get a vid http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezNRMPNtfWw Is that him?

Easiest option IMO is to do a slot port. Port area is completely different when you deal with aeroports :FYI: . Slot ports also add structural rigidity to the box as well.... Here is a quick box design that I came up with you probably can manage to fit all 4 subs facing up as long as you space them correctly.....

Since you are going to run 4 SA-10 drivers I would say make a 5 cu ft. NET box tuned to 30-32 with 14-16 sq in of port area per cube. In order to give you any better idea of what box you should build I need more details about you needs and wants... For example if you are more of an SQ person then I would recommend LESS port area or a sealed box and If you are going to compete I would raise tuning a lil bit. If you do decide to build a larger box PLEASE set your SSF correctly to make sure you do not mechanically damage these subs. (You should be ok thermally with the power you are going to put to them though) Not too sure about the displacement on these subs you will have to wait for Jacob to chime in on that one... Probably about .11 cubic feet though...

RE XXX time? hahaha 148.2 @ 25 Hz is very impressive though. Maybe you should try a bandpass to limit excursion of the subs

Is that a sealed box I see? Or is it ported towards the cabin? If it is sealed it will probably will take the sundown 3k without much of a problem.

Wow Id be down for a demo if you came up to N.C for sure! Let me know if you ever do.

Haha thanks. I am probably going to get rid of this car soon and I might be getting a Celica so I don't want to invest money on this car just yet but thanks for the info. That site sure seems to know whats up with deadening though and they have fanastic prices. Ya haha its bad. I really wouldn't care that much but it is loud as HELL inside the car. Almost unbearable! I peak at 34 hz on my system and I can't play my music loud at all anywhere near that frequency unless I want to hear this terrible noise of sheet metal doing the wave on top of my car.

I think I need some deadener...

Also,

Not even worth it...... I don't think it would even be possible due to its weird suspension system in the sub. There are no spiders just an oddly shaped surround on the inside. + this sub has a 2.5 in voice coil and can not take even close to rated power. I say with the money that you save from not trying to get a re-cone put towards getting a better driver.

LMAO!!!!! This build should be loud.... Is there any particular reason why you went with a 4th order?

Nope, then you'd have equal power going to each sub but the sound waves would be canceling each other out. Thus giving you lots of movement, but not boom boom. He wired one in series and one in parallel. Sending one more power than the other because of the lower ohm load. Ya your diagnosis seems correct but I was saying that the COILS were out of phase. No big deal lol. The x-con is a DVC sub right?

Sounds like you wired each coil out of phase.... That is what it seems to me...

So..... I recently Installed a new headunit into my car and I had a Sundown SAE-1200D hooked up to it. The headunit was an Alpine iDA-X200 and it worked fine for a couple hours. Then this weird popping noise kept happening..... After a couple more hours this noise was so bad that the amp kept going into protection. No matter what head-unit or amp I use the same thing happens and I have no idea what the FUCK is going on!!!!! Also, the headunit works fine with out the RCA cables and can play other peoples systems through the RCA cable when wired into my car and the amp can also play when hooked up directly to an I-POD. PLEASE HELP!

When you say check your grounds what should I look for? Im not a complete noob but I thought if the amp could play music just fine with the I-pod then the ground is not the issue. I thought it might have something to do with it though. If it helps any I have a second battery in the back.