cobra93

I'm pretty sure I'd have to drop something on him at work............I'm sure......................... I would, no doubt about it.

The response you see in WinISD isn't what you'll have in you vehicle. If you build one of the altenate ported systems, that you've modeled, you should at least have a comparison between the two. This should give you a better idea of what you like for future reference. Where the hell did the spell check go?

So where is the review?

I'l try to keep this short. Last week my p99rs remote stopped working and I thought "the batttery went quick". I bought a replacement battery, should have check the original first, but it still doesn't work. I popped it apart expecting to find nothing wrong, but instead I find a coil of wire wrapped around a spool and the spool is broken form the base with a broken wire as well. I went to the local radioshack, looking for help. The guy tthere said it looks like a choke, but wasn't sure. In a responce from pioneer the remote is $84.95 + tax + shipping. I about shit myself, gouge me some more already. These a the best close ups I'm able to get with this camera, sorry I can't get more detailed images. Would you call this a choke or something else? I'm going to desolder it form the board to attempt another repair. I asseume this wire has some type of coating, possibly enamel, to prevent shorting between wraps. What do you think? It's the copper coil next to the + in a circle. I can't figure out how to post larger pics or create a new album.

I managed to get everything reattached and the remote works. I checked the inductor with a DMM and it read 2.8 ohms, form my research it shouldn't be that easy to measure, I don't know.

I have it unmounted from the board and glued back to the base. I'll reattach the wires, then put it back on the board. The only markings are on the top of the spool "QL" I quickly looked at Mousers web site, but have to measure the inductance before I can go any farther to find a replacement. Thanks for your help Impious.

Keep in mind that placement is still very important, they have to be as wide as the primary midbass speakers otherwise stage width will be compromised. I.E. Placing them in the rear deck where rear speakers are normally located (which is typically directly behind the driver and passenger seats, if not a little more inward toward the center of the car) is still a very bad idea and stage width will decrease. I understand this which is why I emphasized reading on the suggestion. I should give this a try in my ranger due to the fact that the rear speaker locations are very close to the same distance form me, left side front to back/right side front to back. I'm glad I didn't get hammered for my above post, as I haven't tested this to see, for myself, how well it can be implimented. Off topic > What Happened To The Spellchecker?

I haven't tried it yet, but if the mid bass on the rear shelf is complimentary to mid bass in the front (time aligned and at a lower volume) it could work. It's allot more involved than that, but could be worth a try after some reading/research. Do a search for " cone of confusion" and decide for yourself if it's worth your time and money. I'm going to give it a try with my next vehicle. It can be hard to blend well with your subs if you're a basshead and want a good front stage.

I believe his port is 3/4" x 10-1/2" x 31" long, The enclosure is .6c.f. tuned to 25 hertz.

Good question. I had a similar thought in one of J-roadtatts threads. The sealed enclosure may only be recirculating the same air, but a ported enclosure will limit cone travel at tuning. I'd think if you compared sealed and ported systems using material that was mostly around the ported systems tuning the sealed would remain cooler. More air movement. I would say you'd need to be more specific to get the correct answer. I'd also say if you're that close to cooking a coil, you should take a look a different equipment.

Lowes and Home Depot don't stock this around me. I went to Menards and got some 11 ply for ~$40.00 a sheet. I'll never go back to mdf.

Lead acid batteries give off hydrogen and oxygen gas when they are charging, not carbon monoxide. Hydrogen gas can be explosive if the concentration is high enough. Glad you're getting this taken care off.

Each plot is labeled, 0, 1, and 2. To the right of the graph lists which was the impedance, amplitude, and vent air velocity. You're right. I see the plot numbered at the bottom of the curve on the second look. Thanks Steph!

I don't claim to know the math. I've always modeled, and looked at the port velocity (I use BBP6). I try to balance velocity with the volume available. I tend to like smaller net volumes, which result in long(er) ports. I quickly read through the link. Great explanation, but I found the graphs to be not as helpful as they could be. Different color plots would have simplified the explanations/results, I found myself assuming which curve was being referred to. Thanks for the link, I'll reread it again later.

You beat me to it. I've never used that box calculator before, but the port length dimensions on the calculator don't make sense either. That's not taking end correction into account which would shorten the physical length of the port. The values look backwards to me, or is this the way that program works?

Happy Birthday Sir. I'm having a drink for you right now.

I bought an alt. from Mechman ~10 years ago. Whoever I spoke to on the phone was very helpful, didn't try try to rush me off the phone. I received my alt. quickly. This was for a 93 mustang cobra. The morning after I installed the alt, a 1/2 mile from home on my way to work, the lights went dim. I pulled over, popped the hood and found the belt off and the alt. pulley cocked at an angle, nut was gone. I do like to exercise the tach. needle. I called Mechman later that day, explained the problem and it was taken care of quickly and at their cost. I would have expected no less. I would not hesitate to do business with them again.

Impious, I understand what you're saying and I do agree that the uneducated consumer that spreads misinformation is irritating. I was just stating the other side of bassahaulics original post. I'd be pissed if I bought a product that was overrated and failed within its advertised parameters. This is why I do my research before spending my money and I'll spend more if I believe the product will last (no junk).

I'm referring to thermal failure. I'm not sure what there is to disagree about, clipping increases average power by 50% to 100% (depending on who you ask) which on turn cam quickly cause a woofeor to go poof. 95honda said himself: "Normalized voltage (AKA amp at full clipping). This shouldn't have been much of a surprise to anyone knowing that a square wave with the same Pk-Pk voltage as a sine will have almost double the power. As you can see on the spreadsheet and graphs, power handling severely dropped when the square wave was applied in this test. Time to failure was cut by a factor of 4 for most drivers. " Julian just posted in his Bcae quote that: "If your speakers are rated for the same power handling as your amplifier is capable of producing cleanly, driving them with a clipped signal for extended periods of time may cause speaker damage and/or premature failure. " I'm only agreeing with what they posted so how can you agree with them and not me? What I got from reading what you posted was the fact that clipping was the cause, not the fact that the coil was unable to dissipate the heat. Clipped or not it was too much power for the coil to handle. This was my point. I will reread this thread, I may have confused who posted what. If this is the case and it's my misunderstanding I have no issue with retracing my statement that was directed at you.

This could go on forever. an-i-no> you need to be more specific. What kind of failure are you referring to? Thermal or mechanical? I'll assume you mean thermal. If it was mechanical, we can probably chalk that up to the nut behind the wheel being loose or getting stupid. How many times have I read this on this forum,"speakers are stupid, they do exactly what you tell them to do" I don't know where I read it or who wrote/tested it (it could have been 95honda), but (if the numbers were correct) the percentage of power sent to the sub that's is wasted as heat was staggering. In the 90% range, which would lead us back to overpowering, not clipping. I 100%agree with Duran and 95honda on this. Show some proof/testing to back up your statements. This isn't subjective. Back to you original topic. Would you prefer manufactures rated their subs the other way around and would you buy the underrated or overrated one's? I think we know the answer to this. Something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it, period.

The port is actually right at the rear passenger door. What is ideal distance, as I still have flexibility. I figure the sub is quite close to your head, and not to much further from the ceiling than in lots of sub up SUV setups. Certainly closer to a boundary than console enclosures at leg level. I can only go on my past experience. I have a 93 mustang cobra, hatch obviously. I've tried firing subs forward from as far back as possible and as well as on top of the rear seats (folded down) up, forward and to the sides. I was surprised at the lack of output. When I turned the box (sub and port facing the same way) pointing toward the back of the car, instant permagrin. You'll continue to hear people say "it's all in the install", " try it and see what works best for you" and "test, test, test". There's a very good reason for this. This could make you happy and that is what matters most. If you have a ported sub (in your home theater) try putting it in the center of the room, then place it with the port firing into a corner. You will experience a big difference in output. If you're loading the port off the boundary of the truck, it could work, I don't know and haven't tried it. Post back with your results so we can learn from you trial. Good luck!

I can't see it impressing you with the sub and port so far from a wall/boundary in the vehicle. Maybe someone that has tried this before will see this and respond.

100% stab in the dark, but have you checked your air filter for splits in the folds or something foreign in the air intake track form the silencer to the throttle body? Where do you hear it the loudest? In the cab or outside the truck, front or rear.

If I could cram the MR 12.4's in my front doors they'd be on the way already.

I don't quite understand what you actually want. Sorry to say this, but punctuation would definitely help. The only one I've used is the kicker KQ5. This has 2 inputs, one is an auxiliary. It also has a front and rear output. This is a 5 band quasi-parametric eq.. It served the purpose I needed it for very well.