cobra93

I followed your thread and wish I could make enough room for some tens in my doors. Then i read you lost one, sorry to hear that. I'm following this thread also because I'm looking for the best mid bass I can get as well. It looks like you're getting some good help, Good luck with what ever you choose next.

I put together a .3 cf enclosure tuned to 75 hertz over the 4ht. of July weekend ( for both sls's ). I put in the truck ( pass. side floor ) powered by my 125.2 . I have to admit they sounded very good, but I don't think they're what I'm looking for. They play low very well, but seem to lack in the mid bass region ( or at least what I would consider mid bass ). I'm looking for more "snap","quickness" and authority to them in the 80-250 hertz range. They also sound muddy/inaccurate above around 200 - 250hertz. I tried to do as much research on what to buy before I purchased the sls's, but everyone hears/likes different things. The sls's were only $45.00 each so I thought what the hell I'll give them a shot. So now I'm looking for some other suggestions/choices. I listen to every type of music except for country, sorry I just can't . I thought I'd recap my plans for the system. 2000 ford ranger extended cab eclipse 8533 H/U ( I have a clarion hx-d10 in the truck at the moment ). jl audio 300/2 driving a pair of fountek fr88's > crossed over around 250 hertz located on the dash at a pillars. sundown 125.2 driving an undecided mid bass/woofer crossed around 75 - 250 hertz located in the doors ( possible sealed/vented enclosure, .25-.3 cf ). sundown 2000d driving 4 sa-8's crossed 65-70 hertz in a 3.2 cf vented enclosure tuned to 32 hertz.

You need a band pass crossover ( a high pass and low pass crossover working in combination with each other = the pass band or band pass ) . This will allow you to control the frequencies you are sending to the speakers in question, in your situation mid bass speakers. The crossover(s) could be on your head unit, a stand alone crossover or on your amplifier. Your sub amp may have a subsonic or infrasonic filter, this will pass frequencies higher than what you set it at to your sub, while the low pass filter ( set at 250 hertz on yours ) will send frequencies lower than than 250 hertz to your sub. That is a very general description, not taking into account the order of the x-over slope, or the fact that the freq. you set it at (on the amp) is "x" decibels quieter due to the slope of the x-over. I hope I didn't screw you up on that last sentence.

Don't bother welding it unless you know people at a fab shop and a machine shop ( side work ). It won't be flat after welding it back together and I'm sure it's bent from being dropped. That sucks, I hope usps reimburse you. The usps by me sucks balls. I feel for you. Good luck.

lithium : What do you mean by "loosen up to hit harder" ? The reason I ask is the sls's 50 hertz with no problem (the door and mirrors shake like crazy), but the mid bass seems lacking (80 hertz on up, I'm ball parking that number). I've been playing with BBP6 today and a .25 cf enclosure with a 2.5" port 7.85" long looks promising ( for 2- 830946sls's ). That would give me a +3 db at 100 hertz, 0db gain at 75 hertz and an F3 of 68 hertz. Theoretically I'd have a 6-9 db gain between adding power, cone area and being ported. Plus the doors vibrating and causing cancellation should be mostly eliminated.

I pulled my door panels today, removed the 5x7's, made up some 1/'2" mdf baffles to mount the 6 1/2" sls's. I had the fr88's on the dash crossed at around 200 hertz with about 30 watts. I ran the sls's off my sundown 125.2 and played around with the crossovers a bit. I realize these are only 6 1/2 " speakers, but I guess I expected more from them. I'm used to having my 12" eclipse (88120 dvc, jl 500/1 ) playing up to a 78 hertz crossover point. I'd imagine going without a sub for a week or so would allow me to appreciate them more. The biggest problem I see is that they can barely keep up with the fr88's, that seems odd to me. I sound deadened, vibration dampened and sealed my doors the best I can for now and as I said earlier I'd planned to run 4 sls's in total. In the pic I posted (first post) the area forward of the window crank handle is open to use for an enclosure. Madisound specs recommends a vented enclosure .4 c.f.. Maybe that would do the trick,...... I don't know. I concerned if I start wailing on my sub I could tear these up and knot know it til it's too late. Thought's , Opinions , Options ???

onebadmonte: Thanks. I didn't think I'd install both sls's in each door and wind up thinking that that sounds like crap, but you never know. Since you mentioned it, mounting them as close together as possible would be a better idea. I seem to have less and less time to do stuff like this anymore. I want to keep them behind the panel because my mom doesn't drive anymore. She's got ms, arthritis and her knees are shot, so when getting her in and out of the truck the doors and kick take a beating. I think I'll try 1 pair in the stock speaker location ( hopefully next weekend ) and listen to the combination ( fr88's and sls's ) to see if I like it. I'll look around for some used door panels and see what I can do as far as glassing and protecting as time allows. Thanks for your thoughts, I appreciate them.

O.K., I already know how to fit them in the door. I also already have a plan for the door panel, the piece of black plastic that makes up the inner door pocket is easily removed and won't change the appearance of the door panel. I don't want to sound arrogant and I do value your opinions. I am willing to drill some holes in the pocket to allow sound ( air ) to escape. I want to keep the speakers protected. I have a plasma table at my disposal at work and cutting/ welding metal is quick and easy. I don't want to get into painting or wrapping the panels. onebadmonte > I suppose it would color the sound to some extant, but do you think it would be noticeable in the frequency I'd be using them in? I am going to have 4 sundown sa-8's ( or 2 eclipse 88120 titanium dvc subwoofers ) behind me to pick up the bottom end ( or hammer if the need is felt ).

I feel the need to clarify. The mid bass speakers at the bottom of the door would be playing into the door pocket ( I am not planning to remove the gray portion of the door pocket ) and the sound would only be able to travel up to escape. Would this color the sound? Would I now have a "band pass" enclosure due to the chamber ( pocket ) the speaker is playing into? Oldskool_08 > yes, I'm going to try active. I"m currently using a Clarion HX-D10, but I have a BNIB Eclipse 8533 I could install and bring time alignment into the equation. I may go the carputer route eventually. The fr88's will be driven by a jl 300/2

double post, sorry.

I have been reading this forum long enough to understand that 95% is install and I appreciate your opinion. However, the answer I'm looking for is with the speaker playing only the frequency range I've listed (70 - 250 hz.) sound odd playing most music in this location. I don't believe it would sound wrong, but I'm not an expert.

. Wutang512 - I would guess the reason for this is the way you have the DMM set or try using a test tone for a frequency that you know is being sent to the speaker. That way you have a constant voltage to measure at the speaker terminal (output of amplifier). The power/ground wires are a DC voltage (input, think battery) and the speaker wire terminals are AC voltage (output, think house wall outlet). Try it again, see if that makes a difference.

Keep us updated with your build. I'm playing with some fr88's and tangband 3" bamboo's at the moment and would like see (cough, cough,...build log) and hear your thoughts on these speakers (setup) regarding imaging and clarity. Thanks and good luck.

This is Les Young's mustang coupe, pics from "Auto Sound and Security" September 2001 issue. Sorry the pics suck (my printer/scanner is screwed), but could give you some ideas. He's got 2- 18" Id subs ( custom made ) in what looks like a sealed enclosure in the back seat/trunk of his coupe running off a tube driver 1500 amp in the trunk.,

That's awesome shakes !!!! I loved Office space, got to go I got a meeting with the Bob's.

Hey Kryptonitewhite. I was looking at the pics of the way you wired those toggle switches, if you don't wire the accessory spade to ground the lights/switch may burn out. I'd wire a jumper from one to the next and so on then to ground so you don't have issues later.

How many ft.^3 do you need ?

That box looks awesome, can't wait to see some vids.

Toyota is the new Audi ( sudden acceleration ). I'm not sure I believe the floor mat is the problem with the Toyota, give me a cable instead of the fly by wire crap. The cop and his family that was killed on the freeway a while ago had time to make a phone call while trying to stop his Toyota ....... Wouldn't you try turning off the ignition in a strait section to kill the engine, then turn it back on so you would have your steering back? Within this past month ( in Ohio )a trooper had to get in front of a Toyota and use his cruiser to stop it. The news was happy to point out that the driver didn't adhere to the T.S.B. put out by Toyota as a fix for the problem, removing the drivers side floor mat. C'mon already. Sorry, I'll get off my soapbox now. Off topic: Did you hear about the pit-bull mix ( Winston and his two buddies) in Chattanooga that attacked two tires and ripped the bumper cover off the front of one cop car and attacked one tire on another. They maced and used a stun gun on the pit, but it didn't stop him. LMFAO. You've got to see the videos. Go Winston.

Hey Anton, both boxes look like they turned out great. I've got a question for you. I'm building a double kerfed box myself ( for 4 sa-8's ). When looking for some tutorials this is one of the threads I was watching. I realize I was trying to do too small of a radius ( 2" id ) and I failed (I was so close), so I'm going to nip some 10 ga. steel to do mine. It looks like your using particle board instead of mdf, does that hold together better for kerfing? Have you tried mdf? I tried leaving different amounts of material, hell I even tried wiping it with a wet rag. The main problem was not all of the sections I cut would bend the same, even when wrapping the "wood" around a piece of 1 1/2 " pipe. I curious to here your thoughts. Thanks for your time.

That's Awesome!!!! Your Fedex guy probably hate's you. What the hell is in here, brick's? Haha. Beat me to it Steve.

3.21 c.f. 35 hz. 52.875 in^2 port area. Ranger extended cab driven by a 2000D ( 1 ohm )

E-mail sent, Thanks for your time.

I'm not in an apartment, but a house. I just got called back to work and didn't want to miss them when they show up. I'll send you a p.m. with my work address, that would probably better anyway. I'd hate to be buying somebody else some sub's. Thanks for the quick reply.