cobra93

Me to, after talking to Jacob, I believe it was my fault (unknowingly). He's awesome to deal with when there's a problem

Looking good J !!

I would think you'd be ok. If necessary you could replace the bolt with a longer one and use a nut, threaded rod coupler or spacer of some kind between the ring terminals so they're all in a line/row if you'd like. Have you ever used compression fittings before (like in the link you posted)? I tried some from lightning audio a long time ago and I hated them. I'm not trying to change your mind, but that's why I went with the ones in the link I posted.

I would get some ring terminal for the existing wires and go this route for the terminals if you have a top post. I don't like compression fittings or the set screw either for that matter. Hope this helps. pico terminals soldier the wires into the ring terminals.

I would like to say I read this in a home stereo magazine many years ago, not sure. Whoever was reviewing the different cables worked for this magazine, The funny part was that he struggled to hear any difference, while his wife would walk in from another room and say something like "The highs sound better, did you get new speakers?". I'm sure this irritated the crap out of him. He also said that different frequencies travel through different parts of the wire (the skin or the core of the wire) and arrive at the speaker at different times. Is this true, I don't know. I would have the means to test it, but it was an interesting read. In the 90's, I was told that twisted/braided rca's would reject outside noise from being introduced into the signal. Is that true, I don't know, but I never had any more issues with buzzing or other noise in my systems after i switched to them.

I don't remember where I read about it, but with silver tinned copper wire the signal/voltage will travel the path of least resistance (obviously). In this case the silver has a lower resistance than the copper and this signal/volts/amps will travel down the out side of the wire more so than the copper itself. Does this matter? Probably not to my ears, but to some people they can hear the difference. I remember seeing a company that had home theater cable (diy) for more than $1200.00 per foot. I realize this is way off topic, but..... This was a quick search Audioquest cable

Hey shizzon, I'm in Ohio. What race is he? I ****ing hate thieves!!!!

That looks the same as a double chamber reflex (ABC), if so you have 2 tuning frequencies ~ an octive apart with a dip in response between them. One chamber is usually ~ twice the size of the other and the volume of both chambers is your net (target) volume. Also, all three ports are the same length. According to Weems and Koonce It's supposed to sound more like a sealed box but with better low extension than you'd expect from a sealed box of a similar size. I've always wanted to try one,but never did.

I don't think those dimensions are big enough to use for an 8" Labyrinth. I don't know about a folded horn. I tried a labyrinth once, it didn't work out so well, the box was around 48" x 36" x 8". I'd start doing allot of reading before I tried one again.

Once again, it's time to do work. Good luck j, keep us updated.

I thought I remember Jacob stating the ssf is not defeatable, always active allowing you to do a bandpass configuration. That's why I bought my 125.2, bandpass and the range of the ssf (500 hertz).

That sucks, dude. That looks like a really nice sub. It looks like it was air dropped and the chute didn't open.

I'd assume (ported,lower thermal power handling) because of less cone movement around tuning frequency, less air movement over the coil. In fact ,I'd assume the sun will increase the temps. in the door more than the speaker could anyway.

Power handling will go up in a smaller enclosure to a point, but you've found the thermal limits of one Aura already. Not the excursion limits. The unequal gain setting between the two Aura's (oversight/oops, or whatever) is probably the reason one of them survived. ^^^^ this is assuming that I remember what you posted earlier^^^^^ If you put it in a sealed enclosure you will heat up the air, as well as your door is sealed, it has a larger volume of air to dissipate the heat to. I'm sure you didn't seal off the drain holes, door handles, the boot that passes wire through the door jam and the seal against the window completely? These may not be big leaks, but the air is still being replaced (forced in/out of the door) with cooler air, or at least the air isn't confined in one small space. Think about the output/air movement/sound those woofers are producing, now imagine you had them in a ported box. That's allot of air movement that's leaking past the area's I've mentioned above. I just hate to see you toast another coil. Since one of them lived you may not have that problem again, did you by chance put a dmm on the outputs to see how much power each one was receiving afterward? That should give you a good safe limit to shoot for (power wise).

I thought you fried the coil on one of the Aura's. You did mention that you didn't have the gains equal between the two (if I recall correctly). Your thermal power handling, if anything, will go down in a sealed pod versus open to your door. I'd hate to see you toasting another coil is all. Perhaps it was only the gain setting that caused this, but regardless, congrats on your purchase. Maybe you can find a bowl that matches the hole at the back of your pod and use that to glass it closed (as a form), or I've used chicken wire and twist ties to hold the shape of the mat while I'm glassing the structure.

No, they are all 4 ohm drivers. I'll have to read up on how that works. I've over simplified the passive crossover in my head, as still being just a series/parallel circuit. However, being 4 ohm drivers would mean I could go passive first, then remove the crossover and go active if I felt the need. If I don't keep everything in one location, tweeter/4"on the dash, woofer in the door, I suppose I could try the passive on the tweeter/4" and use an active crossover on the doors. This would allow me to have the use of time alignment on each group of speakers, provided this doesn't cause a new set of issues to deal with, but I guess I'd still be stuck by the midrange's pass band. If nothing else, I'm receiving enough help form everybody that I should be able to make an informed decision when the time comes.

I just read the link you posted, I'm still trying to get my head around allot of it, but a very good read. Thank you.

I just had a thought regarding the ES-0642i GOLD component set. If I bought raw drivers, they'd be 4 ohms. If I bought the component set they'd be a higher ohm load (than 4) to make the system a 4 ohm system, correct.

Thanks, I'll read that tonight.

I'm starting to rationalize that myself. I can talk myself into anything if given enough time. LOL.

Wow. Now I'm getting flooded with responses faster than I can think or type.

After hearing the L4 and a couple other mids in the same install, I can't rate it high in price/performance One option which seems hot now is to use a 3-4 inch fullrange and a midbass and simplify crossover needs, location and tuning. Thanks for your experience. I'm still debating on active/passive for the moment, but i definitely see active in the future

No, I was thinking of all CDT. If I can fit a tweet/4" on the dash with 15* up/off axis (pointing at my dome light, only because it seemed to work best w the fr88's) and a 6"/7" in a a sealed enclosure in the door. I was trying to ballpark a $$ amount if I went all CDT (as to which speakers you'd suggest). Looking at their website the ES-04 caught my eye, hence the 4"/tweet on the dash. Which you confirmed is an excellent midrange. That leads me back to the decision I have to make "cheap or all in", no one can make that decision for me, I realize that. I like the sound of the fr88's overall, but they do seem to lack the "sparkle/airiness" without a tweeter. I'll keep reading about the opinions/advice everybody has given so far, Thanks.

sandt38 > I've been reading about CDT audio the last few days (great things) and may consider doing a 3-way front stage. The way I've always justified spending that kind of cash of speakers is that I'll keep moving them from car to car, so no big loss. I'll look into a 4" and a tweeter on the dash and see if I can swing it (size wise). If so, do you believe from what I've stated in this thread (with my 93 cobra install/products), that I'd like the sound of CDT products as I've no way to listen to them? I realize you're just guessing as to what I like (due to my inability describe it clearly), but it seems as though "you've been around the block" and are better able to put into words a definitive description as to a speaker characteristics. I'd be running them active. There's nothing like being put on the spot, is there. At this point I'm just looking for feedback, I am still undecided as to go "cheap" or "all in". While the eclipse 8533 will give me time alignment that I don't have now, I'd prefer to have a head unit that would allow me to go active, or go the carputer route (this is still a gray area as far as the good bad). The pioneer head unit (DEX-P99RS) is around $1,200.00 and for that it should do more what it does. The clarion DRZ9255 could work ,but the crossovers (mid bass) don't seem to have the right range, I'll check the range again. H-audio has some interesting products coming out soon, now that they've severed ties with fountek and so on. I don't know, I guess I'm lost at the moment. The only thing I'm sure of is, it's time for a change. P.S. CDT really needs to stop saying they use stainless steal as a heat sink, nothing could be further from the truth. P.P.S. I just downloaded the manual for the clarion and I'll read it tomorrow.

Trouble is one way of putting it.