cobra93

Happy birthday!!!

Cheating, that's exacyly what I said when I discovered time allignment with the fullrange drivers. Check the link I posted in #26, I'm curious what you your ears can hear.

I'm glad to hear your opinions on the faitals, will save the money by not buying/trying them. I have my fr88ex crossed at 250hz. (12db) running off a jl 300/2. I've tried this site and found I don't hear well above 16k hz anyway so they seem fine to me without a tweeter. I wish I had more time to listen like you are. http://www.phys.unsw.edu.au/jw/hearing.html Try it, see if the responce graph of the speaker and what this shows has a ny correlation.

Happy birthday Jon, have beer for me.

If memory serves me correctly, there was a razorblade under the board causing allot of problems.

Dude. The thread was 10 years old.

LOL, that's awesome. I almost shot beer through my nose.

Welcome.

I just watched the second vid Jon, great video and loved to hear the comments instead of just bass. What are the crossover points on the subs and tuning of the box? Is the output all at tuning or is it good throughout the band pass?

I'm running the fountek fr88 in my truck now, also tried the tangband w3 1364sa but seemed a little harsh to me in comparision. I read about the faital pro, but haven't heard the. I'm curious to hear your thoughts on them.

True. NoBSJon, should be his user name. I do like reading his posts.

It was a joke Quentin. Sry. It didn't post the way I was thinking it would.

Very nice. Did you ever have 4-e4's in that? The entry sundown 8" drivers is what I mean.

Jon, if you're not a rep for dss, you should be. Lol. You make these ethos sound very interesting.

Happy Birthday man!!! How are your doors doing btw?

Did you check your grounds/connections like M5 asked you in your other thread? If I remember correctly you had less than 1 volt ouput on thr front/ rear rca's, if this wasn't you disregard this post. If it is you, you were already told by many that the amount of gain necessary doesn't matter, that's why it's there. If you have to have the gain at 90% to get the correct output from the amp, then it's ok. The idea that the gain should never be above a certain spot/level is not correct. I bought into the idea, from sales people, along time ago. I found the truth from some of them members on this forum and have learned allot. I'm a better informed "consumer" now and I'm grateful for the members here.

I still have a brochures for that amp from 2000. The specs. look great. It has 2- 70 amp slow trip breakers on the amp. Wish I'd have looked into them when they were new, but I was just learning about car audio at the time. I bought a Clarion HX-D10 and some Eclipse 88120 aluminum and titanium subs for a hell of a good deal back then. I still have the mobile ES XM-7547 from the same time.

I hope you're not putting the crossovers in the doors. The water/moisture isn't good for them.

The effective port length includes the back wall and half the width of the port on both ends of the port. It's 22.25" of effective port length, 25.25 if you add 1/2 the width of the port at the outside termination. It's like getting lucky to have it work out like that, or good planning.

Well, I'd say because you need to build/experiment to find what you like in the enviroment you're in. There's no best, but only best for you AND the driver you're using. As far as enclosures go, you need to have goals to be met and and those would require a certain type of enclosure/system to achieve them. I don't think allot of people consider what the driver is telling them it needs to perform a certain way and throw it in whatever box they feel like. They probably don't know what they want besides loud anyway. I say that excluding allot of members on this forum, many of them know allot more than I do and I'll admit that. Sencheezy, have you modeled you system to see what the port velocity is?

You have to look closer at this enclosures though. The length of the line or "port" is what keeps the pressure or "vacuum" on the cone.Edit: its hard to compare any of those enclosures to a traditional ported enclosure. They are COMPLETELY different in damn near every way. OP Question > > My question is in regards to enclosures. Mostly the relationship between net volume and port area.From the little research I've done. High port area combined with small volume net will yield a very narrow bandwith but with most SPL. But, if you increase net volume, combined with high port area, you will increase SPL while sustaining a wide bandwith. So what I am thinking is. As an example. If I only had 1000watts to a 3000watt subwoofer, 180cuin would be too much port area because I do not have adequate power to displace as much air as I would if I had 5000 watts. Is this way of thinking correct? Like, hard to convey what I'm thinking via typing. But, I guess what I'm saying is that, If I have too little port, with too much power, than I'm "choking" the air displacement. And in contrary, if I have too much port area, and not enough power, than I have a leaky enclosure. Thoughts? This was the question posed to us and why my I answered the way I did. > To Chill > I disagree, these are all helmholtz resonators. The larger the port, the longer it needs to be to maintaint tuning. And because of this ^^^^^ the mass of the air in the port changes, bigger the port the more mass. The higher mass in the larger port should have more of an affect on the cone, if anything. If the port is too small it won't act as a port. Once the port is correct for the system increasing it will not do much, There's no more to gain. I've underlined the last sentence in his OP. This is exactly backwards. To small of a port is a leaky sealed enclosure. A large port will just be efficient. Regarding your response that I underlined. > It's not the length of the line that acts on the cone, that's more tuning, but the mass in the port that's resonating that's affecting the cone. This is my understanding. wow, well thank you very much for your input. I really appreciate your sight on the matter. So, overall, the response I'm getting seems to be a battle of real world experience vs laws and physics. Not really sure of which route to take at this point. I think the others are also changing the net volume as well as the port and this is why they're seeing the results they are or missing the tuning and unloading the driver. Quentin is posting from "loud speaker design cookbook" by Vance Dickason, Which is a great book. He's telling you the others are not correct and he's designing speakers, I think I'd take his word for it. The larger the port the lower the velocity the air resonates in the port and the less noisey the port becomes. The idea is to keep port velocity down/slower.

You have to look closer at this enclosures though. The length of the line or "port" is what keeps the pressure or "vacuum" on the cone.Edit: its hard to compare any of those enclosures to a traditional ported enclosure. They are COMPLETELY different in damn near every way. OP Question > This was the question posed to us and why my I answered the way I did. > To Chill > I disagree, these are all helmholtz resonators. The larger the port, the longer it needs to be to maintaint tuning. And because of this ^^^^^ the mass of the air in the port changes, bigger the port the more mass. The higher mass in the larger port should have more of an affect on the cone, if anything. If the port is too small it won't act as a port. Once the port is correct for the system increasing it will not do much, There's no more to gain. I've underlined the last sentence in his OP. This is exactly backwards. To small of a port is a leaky sealed enclosure. A large port will just be efficient. Regarding your response that I underlined. > It's not the length of the line that acts on the cone, that's more tuning, but the mass in the port that's resonating that's affecting the cone. This is my understanding.

I don't beleive it's possible to have to much port area. You can have to much enclosure volume, for the amount of power being applied and hit xmech. Keep in mind a ported box will act as a sealed box until you approach the port tuning. Think of a labyrinth, transmission line or tuned pipe systems. They still have control over the cone. A larger port, within reason, will have a larger volume of air acting upon the cone and sould provide better cone control. If you don't have enough port you have a leaky sealed box.

TY for the response Jacob.

I understand the Idea behind smaller diameter subs. There is a market for them. The thing that I don't understand is the the motor is to big to fit the possible application the driver could be used in. I know it's been stated that neo is more expensive, but if people are looking for a smaller driver to fit the application the size of the motor will negate the application most of the time. At least that's my opion. I would love to kick/door mount some of these smaller subs, but can't due to the motor size. I believe someone looking in this market would pay for the smaller driver (mounting depth and width) and you'd have a more versitile product that more serious buyers would jump on. I'm courious what your thoughts are on my observations. You are the designer/builder and have better understanding on the topic. I would like to hear you thoughts as well as others.