cobra93

Happy Birthday Bro!! Have a couple for me, kick back and relax.

If you're wanting help from the people on this forum, you should start listening to the questions they're asking. Once you do this you will receive allot of useful help, not just a bunch random information, like what speakers I like or somebody else likes. This guy you know at this shop is charging you $500 for what exactly, 2 kick panels? Are you mechanically inclined, at all, if you are you can do a little research, ask some informed questions and have some custom enclosures that you built and can be proud of. Do you own basic power tools, Jig saw, drill, circular saw, if you do these aren't that hard to construct. I think you'll be surprised if you try it for yourself. I wouldn't pay for this, but that's me. I can't imagine how well built they will be or how well they will sound if it only is going to take a day to build. I spent very little time on aiming and placement on 2 speakers and I've got a couple of weeks ( 2-3 hours a day) listening to find what I thought sound good to me. I'm not trying to be an ass, I just think you'll have better results if you take a little time to learn how too do the things you're interested in and you'll save allot of $$$$ in the process. Good luck!

If he sold tickets to hear this he could retire, soon. If he sold food and beer in the line, tomorrow.

I don't know how much work you're willing to do to get the sub in there, but if you've got a 60-40 split seat with console you could remove the portion under the armrest and use that space. I think it's about 10 or so inches. You or your passenger wouldn't be eating the dash all the time.

If you wire your front and rear speakers to the same channels you will not have the ability to fade front to rear, if that matters to you.

You should look at J's album, he moved to the Aura sound NS-12's and rebuilt everything. I didn't see any finished pics, but he's got one hell of allot of work done. I bet they turn out better then the 10's did.

I used birch plywood on my last box and I'll happily pay more for birch from now on. It's less messy to cut , hold screws better and seem lighter to me. I was thinking about paying the extra to, cause of the weight difference.. What I was trying to covey to you is that it was better all around ( for me ) the weight was a bonus, but still at the bottom of the list compared to everything else. If you have the patients to glue, clamp and wait for it to setup. Then go out and glue another panel and wait, that's one thing I can't do. It causes too many problems for me, such as keeping pans square to each other. I much prefer to glue, install a couple of screws to hold the panel in place, move to another panel and do the same. It's much easier to keep the enclosure/panels square before the glue sets up, for me. That's why I'll never go back to mdf. The menards by me 11 ply birch plywood (not void free) was only ~ $7.00 more per sheet than the mdf, so it's a no brainer. If you are looking at void free birch plywood (13 ply) get your wallet out, it was more then twice the price of the mdf ~ $70.00 for a 4' x 8' sheet. My last few builds was the first time I used titebond and it is as good I heard. It's cheap also. Make sure to take allot of pics in you build log.

Thanks , you have confirmed what I believed to be true. My reason for starting this topic was simply to find out if it actually works well or was one more piece of equipment that would end up either resold or on the closet floor.

I've been looking at the audio control epicenter. I would like to put some Iron Maiden, Judas Priest, Molly hatchet and so on in the cd player and actually have some bass. I know there are a few different bass restoration processors out there and I have a basic understanding of how they work. I've been searching this topic for better then a week now, but the info. I like to know doesn't seem to be easy to find. I see videos where a turn of the knob makes your subs start "doing work". Most of the topics I run across are either useless videos or "my subs are blown up". What I can't find is are they worth it? Yes there may be more output at the turn of a knob, but does it sound "correct", as if it was recorded today? 25-30 years ago there didn't seem to much info below 50-60 hz. in the recordings possibly due to the equipment available to reproduce it. I like to hear from people that have actually heard one in use.

I did get the PM about the sale. Thank you. I concidered ordering another 10 at that price, but plan on using the 10" I have now for a different application that only requires one. Its to bad you don't have better processing, I think alot of what you want to achieve is in the blending of what you have. Just waiting for spring. I think I'll be getting a Poineer p99rs, it's just allot of cash for a HU. I can justify it to myself since I'll keep moving from car to car.

I used birch plywood on my last box and I'll happily pay more for birch from now on. It's less messy to cut , hold screws better and seem lighter to me.

J, I appreciate your offer, but it'll be a while before I can work on the system again. I don't have 8's, I wish I did, but they're 6-1/2"s. The Aurasound NS-12's sold out pretty quick, but there are still some NS=10's left. I don't know if you got my pm about the sale, I thought you might be interested in having a/some backups. I haven't been able to mess with x-over settings lately. I just about chopped the end of my left thumb off ~ two weeks ago, I'm not looking forward to removing the subs to gain access to the amps just yet. I still have allot of tuning to do with what I have now. I just thinking of how to improve what i have at the moment. This spring I pick up another set of door panels (spares) and work on getting some thing bigger up front to replace the 6-1/2" sls's. I doubt I'll ever be done with my system, I always want more/better, but I'm getting closer.

Exactly my thought. Even when I turned the sub volume way up on the HU it wasn't loud and the sound was distorted. I can't listen to it if it doesn't sound right. I've got quite a few cd's that just sit there because they sound crappy, It's the recording that's crap not my system.

:domoslay: :rockwoot: :rocking: Seriously though, Why would you need the bass restored. If you want faithful sound reproduction, with EPIC bass, get a bigger sub, bigger box and cross it LOOOOOOW. Or get a more efficent sub. What's up J! I'm thinking about upgrading the sls's in the spring, it just so happens that the Aura sound NS-10's are on sale right now for $88.00. I'm considering snagging two of them now, but the 6" mounting depth is what's holding me back. I was pondering the epicenter, but I think it may complicate things. I'd like to have them on the sls's so it's coming from in front of me, but I want more output than they can deliver. I used to have my sub crossed around 80 hertz and the bass still isn't there. Those old recordings seen to be missing allot of low information. I honestly don't think more speakers is the answer, I certainly could be wrong. Do you have any old Judas Priest or Iron Maiden? I'm curious if your system would play it "correctly", as if it was recorded today. If you don't I'd be happy to rip a cd and send it to you so I could get your opinion on whether you think it sounds "correct". Let me know, Thanks.

You will probably be best port back, not sure if sub up is better then sub back. I had great results with sub back, port back. I had a eclipse 88120 ti dvc in a 1.6 c.f. tuned to 32 hertz (2" x 14" port) powered by a jl 1000/1 in my '93 cobra. I used to have videos of the rear hatch flexing side to side enough that you could see the outside through the corners of the hatch, I was pretty impressed with the output. I built a 4.5 cf tuned to 45 hertz enclosure for the same combo, port/sub up flush with the top of the back seat for a local spl event a long time ago. It wasn't very impressive at all. It metered a 140.6 at 45 hertz (I had no idea what I was doing). The 1.6 @ 32 hertz box was allot louder, to my ears The big problem, as you probably already know, is how close the rear glass is to the back seats. Good luck, take allot of pics, not that we're pic whores or anything.

The .825 is the internal volume (NET). You need to add to that volume for speaker displacement and any bracing. What type of port do you plan on using, slot/round, internal/external? The port will add to the the volume of the enclosure, giving you the GROSS volume of the enclosure. You need to figure out what the volume of your port will be and how much room you have to work with. You didn't say exactly what info you need beyond what I've stated above, so post back with exactly what you need to know. I believe there's also a port calc. on that site, but I haven't used it.

Damn you!! Well somebody has got to help throw a wrench in your plans, might as well be me.

Happy Holiday!!

The only drawback with a plasma is power consumption. My brothers 50" Panasonic is listed at 500 watts, I don't know what actually is.

Just in case you didn't know, Parts Express is 25% off all Tang Band speakers through Friday I believe.

Did anybody get hurt in that wreck?

Great video!! I never considered the input voltage dropping as the output voltage increased. I realize this happens, just dismissed it I guess.

Overkill now is just right later. At least that's my theory.

The enclosure looks great!! I gave up trying to kerf mdf, not enough patients I guess. The belt sander and the clamps in the beginning look homemade, probably out last stuff you can buy nowadays.