Dammed

Hey there! Wanted just to greet you all from Norway.

1. How old are you? 21 2. When did you get into car audio? 18 3. How did you first get into car audio? Was at a DB Drag, and when I felt my breathing followed the rhythm of the bass I was hooked. 4. Whats your favorite color? Blue 5. Male or female? Male 6. Your first Car? Toyota Celica T23 GT 8. How did you find out about this site? link from Fi 9. What was your first system? Hifonics ZXi 6006 and a 12" Pioneer 400W rms sub 11. Were do you live? Norway, Halden 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? McIntoch, heard a SQ with smplifiers from them, wow what a sound. 15. Who is your hero in the car audio industry? No one atm 16. Whats your dream system? A SQ system that hit 150db 17. Whats your dream car? Cizeta Moroder or Lister Storm 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in? Ridden a Porsche 911 Carrera 2 with upgraded engine +++, we hit about 286 km/t on the GPS. 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? US, have bought the most from sonicelectronix.com 20. What is your job? Uni. Student 21. Whats your favorite saying? All is relative 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars?BMW, Toyota and Dodge 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's? cars 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased? Audio wise, deadening 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? Impious, lots of great helpful info 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment? 134DB with bridged Hifonics ZXi 6006 and a 12" Pioneer 400W rms in a sealed enclosure 33. SQ or SPL? why? SQ, because it's more important that it sounds good, cause with enough power it get's loud enough anyway.

Thx for the link again Impious. A lot of good info on the forum. Well, I have narrowed down my options quite a bit. It has come down to these amps, and the order is what I think atm is the best choice: 1. Soundstream Reference 4.920 reason: Lots of power, 4x145W rms, Hawkins Boost Control, a good review of the smaller brother: LINK, and the looks are quite nice. (note: the power is slightly over rated on the little brother, but sill quite acceptable considering the price and features IMO) 2. Rockford Fosgate Power T600-4 reason: RF quality, 4x131W rms (birthsheet data @ 14.4V) 3. Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 reason, Good rep from members of this forum, 4x100W rms, underrated power, my wild guess maybe around 4x110/120W rms. Good features and intriguing becuase it's unknown where I'm from. The features on those three are quite the same, but Soundstream has the best with the larger range of the crossovers and the Hawkin Boost Control. The review looks good, but it's hinting to heating problems. Question here's are they still Smoke Stream? The Rockford has lots of power as well, looks quite good, and has the same features as the Sundown amp, as far as my sleepy eyes sees it. Since it has more power (on paper at least) and because it's RF (easier to sell if I want to change) it's on 2.nd place. The Sundown Audio amp was my first choice to begin with before I checked all the other amps, only reason it's at 3. place is because it's unknown (hard to sell) an it has a little less power then the RF amp. What do you guys think I should go for? And please say why you think so. I have very little use for ""Sundown Audio / RF / Soundstream FTW!!! """ replies.

I know people don't like SQ and ""SQL"" on thi forum and I understand, because one person can like the sound, but others think it's horrible. I's a expression that's based on taste not facts. BUT as I see it, we aren't talking about speakers, but amps. And the way I see it, a sq amp can't be determined by taste, but by electrical science. The amplifier I'm going to buy will be running two sets of Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1, which I had running on a Hifonics zxi 6006. And from my exp, the amplifier did not have enough power to run them good enough. And if I turned up the volume, it didn't sound correct, it started to sound like they were about to blow. It wasn't a clean and crisp sound. This wasn't at a high volume, so they weren't actually about to blow. Considering I'm going to use Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 which has a bit low sensitivity (90db) and can handle 100W rms. Should I aim for a amplifier that deliver perhaps 150W rms per channel? Or is 100W rms from a quality amplifier good enough? In the beginning I'm not going active, the speakers will be run passive.

DosOne wrote this a couple of years ago:

Will do, and yeah, I have to say, this is the forum with the most information and helpful people I have seen in a good while. I'm off for today, 07:00am here, need some sleep.

cool, sounds really good. I'll check a little bit around and read a bit more, because I have about 2 weeks before I get the money to place the order. But Sundown Audio sounds really tempting.

how big does a enclosure have to be for the polyfill to have close to none effect?

so if you wanna run a 3 way active setup you go for the 100.4 for the mids and tweets and the 125.2 for the bass elements`? And when you say crossover flexibility, you mean that you can adjust the crossover for each channel, or that the crossover has finer increments? Yeah, after the PM's I checked them out, and they look quite tempting. Especially after i saw what they put out at 12V, the 1500D.1 did close to 2000W at 12,5V if I remember correctly, with 13,5V it would be close to 2150W rms witch is pretty nice for a 1500W rms rated amp. And I can only except the 100.4 to be a bit underrated themselves. But back to reality, I do have a question and to be honest and a bit forward, considering it's the producer that did the test, how sure are we that the numbers are true? For now the sundown audio does look quite tempting. I only hope he will have the sale going until 12/15 of january, that's pay day. If I had the money I would go for Zeds 6-channel amp, but 600$ is a bit to much for me. P.S. It's funny to see how every forum has one, two maybe three brands that they recommend every time someones asking for advice on amp/subs.

I'll note down Adrian for the unfortunate future if I blow my amp... So the best thing would actually be to buy a 6-channel amplifier, since on that amplifier you could run a active 3-way front stage? That sounds interesting, I will probably run a active front stage in the future then, 2 or 3 way. What features do you have to watch out for? Cause as I see it, the crossovers are external right? my bad Jay-cee, proof that i need some

Thx for the link Impious, interesting reading. Just as a side note, regarding the amplifier class. The difference in SQ would maybe not be any different, but if you look at practical use of a amplifier, a A class with a higher efficiency would not heat up as fast as a D class amplifier. Meaning you can push a A class amplifier longer then a class D. At least that's my understanding, because the electricity that doesn't get converted to power out from the amplifier will be transferred to heat. But then again, a D class amplifier could have better heatsinks to counter affect this problem. Am I on the right track, or? it suddenly became much easier to shop for a new amp... Warranty and customer service is important, but since shipping of a amp from Norway to US will probably cost more then to just buy a new one, I'll probably just sell it to a enthusiast that can fix it himself. For me as I can see it the features and the build quality is most important for me. Aboveak, when you said if you want to go active or not do you mean a active crossover? If you don't mind explain short what you mean, cause I'm not so good on technical slang on English. in a couple of years maybe and it would be good to have a amplifier that could power that with good sq, what features should I look after? I was thinking about making a good three way front stage in a couple of years and having a good amplifier that could power them with the necessary features would be sweet, I want to buy a amp for my speakers that would not restrict my options in the near future (2-5 years), what features should I watch out for?

Hey and welcome.

so after I have narrowed it down, I should take a internal picture of the amp and look for a electrical engineer or someone else that has great knowledge on components to let him/her check them out and spot out who's build up the best. Luckily for me, I know two guys that know a great deal about audio components. And if/when I have two-thee left I'll check back with you guys. To see ehat people think about them. Man buying cars is easier then buying good amplifiers.

Ryan, good rep is important ofc. But it's nice not to be depended on other people to find out what's good and not, because on the internet men are men, women are men, and little girls are FBI agents. I'll check it out, thx for the replies guys. So, THD, S/N ratio, dampening factor, and X-over capability, any thing else to watch out for?

That sounds promising. Can't wait to get subwoofers.

Title says it all. I can build a enclosure with about 11 cu ft (internal volume, displacement of the subs has been removed). I read on a forum a while ago that you get the best SQ if you go with a big vented enclosure. I want to hit the lows but not to loose the highs completely. I listen to almost everything that's called music. That means from Queen to ATB to Bob Marley. My goal is SQ. The car is a Toyota Celica GT, this one: I will be using a Hifonics BXi 2610D amplifier pushing 2600W rms on to two Fi Q 18" subs. The optimal vented enclosure as I have read is from 6-10 cu ft for one, meaning 12-20 cu.ft. for two subs. Or 4-8 cu.ft. for a sealed enclosure, 8-16 cu.ft. for two subs. My first Idea was to go with a 11 cu ft vented enclosure filled with polyester, tuned to 28hz using a rectangular port. I'm not 100% sure you call it polyester, but it's stuff you can cover the walls inside the enclosure to trick the subwoofer to think that it's a bigger enclosure. And If I remember correctly you can get the same effect as from a 20% larger enclosure. Meaning about 13 cu. ft. (please correct me if I'm wrong on this one, long time since I have read that article) If it matters, I was thinking about closing my trunk completely, my front baffle will be like a lid going from the top of my seats and all the way back to my plates. So the rear window will be pretty close, I haven't measure it yet, but I think it will be around 8-10" from the subs. And with my amazing paint skills I illustrated it for you guys: ' So what you think, should I go for vented or sealed if I have only about 11 cu. ft to use?

ty for the welcomes.

what could the price be for the 4x100w? I was thinking of buying a new SQ amp to power my infinity kappa perfect around mid-end January. Would be really sweet if it will be possible to buy one around that time.

Why did you blank out the *** forum? (New here, so kinda good to know, as I see it isn't commercial if you mention something, like Nike. Did I advertise now? lol) True, 2600(or 2300)W rms will be loud either way. So yeah, it's gonna be good, gooooood. The amp that will be powering the Q's will be mounted so that, the heat from the amp can not go straight up but it would have to go through the sides of the enclosure because the front baffle would be like a lid on the whole trunk. Will this be a problem? If someone wonders why I want to do it like this, it's because I think it would look much better then to make a small gap for the venting of the amp.

Like one old professor I had said, you learn a new thing every day. Anyone with some experience on how this will be like? Was thinking about hitting the lows and being loud. Because if they don't hit the lows, I might as well go for two 15" in a vented enclosure if they will play better at lower freq.

Damn, I need some coffee... I read only the recommended size for the enclosure, forgot about how much room I have... So back stage would be back speakers and amps on them or? 11 cu.ft . sealed will be the enclosure then. Will it hit the lows and will it be loud if I crank the volume button all the way up?

Ok. so, with a sealed enclosure, how big should I make it, around 12-13 cu. ft?

The enD, Who said that I started with looking at the sub woofers? I have deadened the whole car using Dynamat extreme and Hushmat. Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 in the front and back, amplified by two ZXi 1010D amplifiers. These pictures are 2 years old. The only thing left is the subwoofers. I'm also going to buy a 180A alternator from Iraggi soon and there are two kinetik batteries a HC600 in the front and a HC1800 in the back. The big 3's are upgraded with 0/1 awg cables. So the rest is sorted out, only thing left is the subwoofers. The reason for two 18's is simple, I want a 18" subwoofer because a friend of mine had one, and I loved the way it hits the lows. I want to use my BXi 2610D to the fullest, so I need a 18" SQ subwoofer that could handle 2600W rms and had a maximum price tag of 700$. (I'm a Uni student, so money doesn't come easy). Through my web surfing I didn't find any subwoofers that could do that. So the choice became two 18" instead. I read NDMstang65 thread (Q Enclosure Recommendations) where DosOne used a BXi 1606d on a 15" Q subwoofer, meaning a Q subwoofer could handle 1600W rms, again meaning two 18" Q's would have no problem with a BXi 2610D (1300W rms on each). DosOne got good SQ and some SPL, which is the same thing I am after, with a vented enclosure. On other forums, this it was on realmofexcursion or *** forum that I read if you wanted a Q sub to hit lows and give you nice SQ that you needed to build a vented enclosure. The only reason I made this thread is because my car isn't a big Chevy Van, so I have limited space to build a enclosure. edit: kirill007, front stage? the 11 cu. ft is internal volume after I have subtracted the displacement of the woofers, but the port volume hasn't been taken in consideration.

Found it at the homepage to Fi car audio. Nice looking place, one of the best designs on a forum I have seen.