Dammed

sounds good, can't wait for the videos. Can you tell me, what did you use on the angle iron and joints to seal the enclosure? I was debating today with a guy on what to use, many suggestions came up, silicone, tech7, normal wood glue, glass fiber, etc etc.

mythbusters tested this, it was busted. MythBusters Episode 58: Shattering Subwoofer Yeah I know you guys worked only on the weekends, so the days/hours spent building is probably good.

I loved to hear the house shaking, hehe nice one.

what's wrong with this one?

the build log is over 6 months old. The progress isn't that good. The work looks good, but it ain't going fast. Can't wait to see some new pictures and video when it's installed. I'm going for Mechanical engineer myself.

Hey Nick, yeah I saw the mail. No problem, good to know that it's not a defect of some sorts. And thanks for the fast repIy. I'm going to try a 20hz tuning at first, in WinISD it looked like it would be a really good flat response. The port will be a variable, so I can change it at any time from 20 to 40hz with 2,5hz intervals.

I recieved my two Q's today and man they are big! Just love to look at them, and since they are so good looking some pictures had to be taken. and then a attempt on art: But when I was fooling around with them, I noticed some black stuff on one of the magnets, is this something to worry about or? the other one looks like this:

Hehe, o yeah can't wait to install them. It will be amazing, and I'll be posting a build thread when it gets a bit warmer or I get a garage to work in.

yeah they are gorgeous. Man I love the look. Ok, man I'm relieved now, didn't want to send them back... But both of them have the BP installed, shuldn't they both have some black residue on them? And should I clean it, or should I just leave the magnets as it is?

could you upload them and post a link here for downloads? Would be fun to have on my laptop.

thx for the info, my stereo will be used as a daily and not a SPL setup. I will play DB drag a couple of times in a year, but my goal is not to have highest possible DB, but a reliable battery setup that will last at least 3 years. I found this picture on a thread, any good info here or is it BS?

Yeah the NSB90's are great batteries, I have to call and check the price with some dealers becuase I haven't found one store that has the price displayed on their web page. That's why they aren't in one setup. But if the Deka group buy is still possible then I will buy Dekas, $350 + shipping for 3 x 9A31 and one 9A78DT would be awesome.

man your father is just like mine. Thank god I have convinced him that I know generally more about cars then he does. Ask your father to read this thread, and show him examples of people having HO alternators and old batteries (bought new by the same owner). Or you can just do what the fudge you want and ignore him, I did that once. Wow what a fight we had... But in the long run, he understood what I did and that we both were correct. He's always correct you know... good luck mate.

it's new batteries, but it looks like it ended 2 weeks ago. link: Deka 9A31 group buy $85 per - 502StreetScene edit: Anybody know about active group buys for batteries?

this is my kinetik hc1800 after about 10 min of resting: I'll have to check what it reads after 45 min resting in a couple of days. mm, I found a group buy for the Deka 9a31, it has ended but I'll try and see if it's possible to get 3 of those. Price was only $85 per battery.... Man what a great price.

after how long time after you stopped charging?

Ahh ok, do you have like a temp feeler mounted on the alternator or do you just stop pushing the amplifiers after certain amount of time? yeah I know it's pointless information if you view it from a practical point of view, that's why i wrote: "This happens in a fracture of a second."

My Kinetik HC1800 rests at 13,1V, but ok. What difference will 12,8V be in comparison to a 13,2V when there are other variables like different Ah and CA rating?

hmm, I think you misunderstood me mate. I meant that front battery will charge the rear in only a fraction of the second, before the alt/alts notice the current draw from the rear. After that the alternator will increase it's current supply. Current and voltage ain't the same thing, so the volt should be able to stay stable with a little variation as long as the current drawn from the amplifiers is lower then the current supply from the alternator. How do you let it cool down, you stop pushing the amplifiers right?

yeah I read that thread as well. I think that Ah has no big meaning in burps except one. When you use more power then your alternator can deliver then your batteries have to stand for the power. So if my assumption is correct, then if you're batteries has a larger Ah rating then they will be able to hold their voltage better then the batteries with a lower Ah rating. In burps where you consume all of the power that the alternator/alternators can deliver then you will be able to get more power with batteries with a high Ah rating becuase the batteries will be keeping a higher voltage. So if this is correct, then a low ESR rating is almost as important as a high Ah rating. Cause low ESR rating (among other things) give you a higher resting voltage. But a higher resting voltage means nothing if the battery/batteries loose their power quickly, here comes the AH rating. Am I getting this whole thing wrong or am I on to something? Optima seems to give you really little for the money compared to other brands. AH/$ and cranking Amps/$ is really low with Optima batteries. I'm really thinking about the Dekas, I have to just check someone that has compared them to other brands in burps.

I haven't found the price for the 1750. But the cheapest online price for the 1700 was $200, but why should I go for the 1750? there isn't a big difference between the 1750 and 1500, the short circuit draw is much bigger on the 1750, but is this really a valuable spec for car stereo? Thx for the links mate, lot of good stuff to read on those forum. Yeah I was heading towards the Dekas myself, 355Ah reserve is really good. And if I have understood it correctly, the bigger the reserve thus longer can the battery hold a high voltage when the car is off. The question that comes up then, is how high is the Dekas resting voltage and how do they compare to Odyssey / Stinger batteries in burps? And what about NSB batteries? I haven't found any site that lists pricing for them, only *call for price*.

I didn't say it can't start the car, it's a 36Ah battery which is about half of what my car normally have. A racing car and a daily driver is not the same thing. The race car doesn't have heated seats, AC, heat threads(?) in the back window, etc etc. A normal daily car puts the battery under pretty much abuse.

mm have heard that one before. My father says normally, why do you do this, can't you hear the music, doesn't your factory speakers work?.... Sorry I didn't notice you had a HO alternator... To be honest you should get one, since a HO alternator cannot fully charge your batteries. I have a 180A (biggest that fits my car) alternator and I bought myself a Ctek XS 25000, it can handle batteries up to 500Ah and it charges with a 25A current, it's a really good charger. Np mate, good choice, a electrical system is the foundation of a car stereo. Nobody likes a foundation with cracks in it.

Can't wait to finish school and to buy a AMcar. God I love V8's, first one was a 318(?) that was after installed in a Dodge B300, man it's nothing like sitting in the front seat and work on the engine.

i dont believe for one second you went that fast in an evo lol, 170mph is about 275km/t. Here's a M5 E34 (1989–1995) that does 290 km/t / 180mph: Here's a evo doing 265 km/t / 165 mph: and here's a evo doing 270 km/t / 168 mph: That's original evos, if you tuned them a little bit they go easily above 300 km/t / 186 mph: