Dammed

I have a small problem, I have two plates that will be joined with Lamello biscuits at a 45 degree angle. I have found some solution that uses tape at one side, but I feel that it will not put enough pressure on the plates. Does someone know a good way to clamp them together? edit:; I forgot to mention that the end of the plates that will be used to join them together are cut at a 22,5 degree angle.

that's a 90 degree angle. I'm making a 45 degree corner.

welding would not work since it's wooden plates. I have looked around at hardware stores, but I couldn't find a 45 degree wood clamp.

Bump

I need to bump this ancient thread. (better then making a new one) I have a paper in 3D modeling to make anything I want. And I started to draw one of my Fi Q 18" subwoofer, I have drawn almost anything. But I have one problem, and that's I'm not willing to open the motor to take a look at the BP power option. I have searched around on forums any where and I can't find a picture of a motor with the BP power option. So until now I have drawn a motor after a couple of pictures of one Q motor without BP. But I would like the draw it correctly with the BP option. So I have read the description above, but, I have some problems understanding it, is the plug something like a traffic cone on top of the pole so that it directs the air flow between the voice coil and pole? And I have no idea how the 6 axial cooling channels in the top plate looks like... If someone has a picture of a Q motor with the BP option or maybe if someone could explain how it looks on the pictures below, then it would really help me out: (high res): http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/FIQ18subwoofer5.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/Oving8-FIQ18subwoofer-Motor1.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/Oving8-FIQ18subwoofer-Motor2.jpg Here are a couple other pictures if someone is interested (note: I took some liberties, as not all parts were possible to measure, and all are high res): http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/FIQ18subwoofer1.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/FIQ18subwoofer2.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/FIQ18subwoofer3.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/FIQ18subwoofer4.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/Oving8-FIQ18subwoofer-Wireframe.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/Oving8-FIQ18subwoofer-Motor-Wireframe-1.jpg

Thanks for all the comments. I'm probably going to change the lights in the speedometer and the AC control box to white so that it matches the computer screen and the cd player.

10. March 2010 What's already done: Wires are pulled through the car ( 2 x 0 gauge cables, and 3 pairs of RCA's, all from Kicker) The car is partially deadened with Dynamat Extreme Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 is installed in the front. (The passive Xover was moved into the car a couple days later) What's bought: Clarion DXZ788RUSB CD player Soundstream REF4.920 (4x145W rms @ 4 ohm) Hifonics XX Colossus II (3200W rms @ 2 ohm) Two Fi Q 18" D2 (1000W rms) 180A Iraggi alternator with lifetime warranty Two Stinger Voltage meters, one to measure the Voltage at the front battery and the other to measure to battery bank at the back Hushmat deadening, to be used in the trunck and roof. Kicker Speaker wires Kicker 50mm2 power wires Tsunami 180A Circuit Breakers Tsunami Battery terminals Stinger Battery isolator Bag with Stinger 50mm2 ring terminals Various Stinger wire adapters, 50mm2 --> 21mm2 og 21mm2 --> 8mm2 Ctek XS 25000, 25A smart battery charger The Fi Q Subwoofers: The insides of the Colossus II: Subwoofers that love big boxes: What's left to buy: NSB 75 and two NSB 125 batteries. The a explaination on how you get two 18" in a vented enclosure in a small Celica... Well, I'm going to take out the rear seats and the enclosure is going to build so that the subs will be firing towards the front right behind the rear seats. The port will also be firing in the same direction, so that I get a nice breeze on warm summer days. The enclosure will be about 450-550liters which is about 16-20cu.ft. There will be a plexi glass plate between the enclosure and the roof so that I will not be obstructing the view through the back window. The amplifiers will be placed on top of the enclosure. I'll also make two fiberglass covers that will go on the front baffle and the roof of the enclosure, they will hide cables and cover any small openings on the sides between the enclosure and the car, those will be covered in grey/black vinyl to match the interior of the car. Clarion cd player will be running the fronts actively with the Soundstream amp. And the Ctek charger will be installed in the car, but it will be easy accessible so that I can take it out of the car if I need to charge something else. That's the plan, now we're waiting on the weather gods to turn up the heat. 13. April 2010 Then the work starts: Deadened the trunk today, beautiful weather today, +13C and no clouds. The CD player I'm using now, a real beauty: The 1" MDF plates that's bought: The workshop and all the tools at school that I'll be using: got to have some music while you work: The trunk before: All the cables waiting patiently to be used: The room at my disposal: My baby: Got to eat to, dinner for my sister and me: The result: Lot's of deadening got used: The car stereo waiting to be used: 18. April 2010: Deadened the roof today: 19. April 2010: Made a cardboard model of the enclosure, using a Kinetik HC1800 as a dummy battery:

Started up the screen today: The angle was a bit to big so the screen lost to much sharpness, so I'll change the angle so that the screen will be closer to 90 degrees. But totherwise everything looks very good.

The new top piece looks good: Made the whole frame about as thick as the screen: Fitted the frame to the console: And it looks pretty good in the car: I'll power up the screen tomorrow to see if the angle is good and if's everything looks fine I'll starts with the glassfiber molding. Bought today some matte black paint and primer, so got everything to finish the console. ^^

Started to make the frame for the screen: Made a hole for the screen: Removed the box in the glove compartment: Glued together the frame and fastened it in work bench: The frame fits perfectly: The holes in the sides area little to big so that there will be no pressure on the cables: I cut away a little of the top and bottom on the frame and testet it in the console: I made a piece of MDF that the volt meters will be mounted on and where there will be a hole for the external dvd drive: Then I glued the frame with a little glue, to check out how it fits in the car: Looks pretty good, the frame is a little to thick, so I will sandpaper it down: I will move the frame a little bit up, because it's to tight for the cd player: So since I had to move the frame u, I had to remove it from the console, and this glue was really strong. Much better then what I was used to, so it caused this to happen: So I removed the top from the frame and glued in a new piece, now it's under pressure and I'm taking a break from the work.

Meh, it isn't a traffic hazards thread. Yesterday I tried out many Linux distroes, among others: Mint, Arch, Fedora (KPE and LXDE), Kubuntu and Easy Peasy on my SSD I found out that my netbook won't start quick enough for my taste. :/ So I put the SSD into my Desktop, returned the 160GB HDD into my netbook and installed XP on it. Voila, starts allmost as quick as the fastest Distro and much easier to configure and use. I'll just put the netbook on standby, with a total of 240Ah it should not be a problem. I tried out my USB HUB and my soundcard today, and the most difficult thing was trying to find 10 different usb items to hook up to my HUB... hehe And I adjusted the screen resolution a bit and tweaked the options on the screen, now everything is much clearer and a little bit bigger, so it's quite easy to use. Even going through windows is not a problem. And I'm quite happy that everything worked on through the HUB, even the touch screen and sound card.

Well the keyboard has physical buttons like the old phones... So do I need to draw something in Paint?

I could probably drive better with both of my eyes closed then some people out there, probably like the person you bumped into the other day... but seriously, I meant, you look at the road and write on the keyboard without looking. A bit difficult with todays smart phones, but in the "good old days" it was no problem.

It's Dammed, as in Damir Medic. (DAM-ir MED-ic) I have a touchscreen, and laptop VS Desktop is a subject for taste. I found a netbook would be better, easier to power and since you have battery, it's easier to automatic shut it down. And If I ever need a PC, one's always available in the glove compartment. I'll check Centrafuse out, but Winamp is 0 problem, I used the netbook today to find music on Winamp, as easy as using a normal cd player. Remeber I have that wireless keyboard, it's like texting on a mobile phone.

yup. some photos of them here:

I bought TRD Coilovers, have yet to see if they will be stiff enough, but I bvelieve they should be ok.

I haven't done much because I had exams and a big vacation, and the fact is that the enclosure can't be installed before the coilovers are on the car, and they have to be painted and after that the snow have to be gone, and they have to be installed after the car has passed the MOT since I have 0 papers on them. But I have made a couple of changes to the equipment that will be going into the car: I sold the ODR player and I will buy a Pioneer P88RS-II (P800PRS) or a Alpine 9887R and a Carputer. Carputer is bought and it's this ASUS mini netbook: Small thing: Specs: * Size:226×191.2×28.5~38mm (WxDxH) * Weight1.45kg * 1.6GHz Atom N270 processor, * 1GB RAM, * 80GB SATA hard drive, * 10-inch display 1024×600, * three USB 2.0 ports, * 10/100Mbit Ethernet, * 802.11b/g/n WiFi, Bluetooth, * SD card reader, * 1.3Megapixel Webcam, * Windows XP. * weight1.45kg * 6-cell 6,600mAH battery 3.6h. The Asus is upgraded with 2gb ram and a car charger came with it, and there's still 1 year of warranty left. Have bought/ordered: Lilliput 8" widescreen touchscreen, EFO mini keyboard and mouse, Crucial C300 64GB SSD that will replace the HDD in the Asus, Creative USB soundcard that will give me 2 RCA outputs, a USB HUB that will give me 10 USB ports and one Iomega 2TB external HDD. Later I will order Garmin Mobile PC, and a couple of DC-DC converters for the external drive and soundcard. The external HDD has a alu enclosure, which makes it really solid, and the HDD remains pretty cool. Efo keyboard, is a small wireless keyboard with lights behind the buttons and a netbook mouse. It works pretty good, I tried it at a 4m distance and it works flawlessly. I'm going to try different OS on the netbook to achieve the quickest boot as possible, it will probably be a Ubuntu based OS. The netbook and the external drive will be placed in the glove compartment, and I will use a VGA connection with the screen and the sound signal will from the Creativ sound card through RCA cables to the AUX input of the cd player. The fiberglass mold I made will not be used. I'm gonna make a new mold, from bottom to top: cd player, touchscreen, stinger volt meters, and the clock at top. I have disassembled the screen so that I can't a nice smooth custom look with the fiberglass mold. And then I checked if the screen is still working. And then I but the bezel together with all the srews, so that I do not loose any screws. ^^ The Bezel: The screen is made of one big circuit board, one smaller which contains the buttons and the screen itself. Pretty slim: And the screen is still working as it should: I'll see how to mount it, I'll probably just press fit the screen on the fiberglass mold as it was in the bezel and mount the circuit boards on a metal plate that I will weld in between the cd players mounts

Man I would kill to have your doors. MIne were hell to deaden, a lot of bends and cables and shit, photo of the halfway done: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y292/DamirMedic/Bilstereo/Monteringen%20av%20hoyttalere%20og%20lyddemping/DSC00548.jpg

KK, I had to ask because in the last photo the left pod looked like it was pointing way low. Must be the camera angle.

Looks very good. But shouldn't the T-nuts be on the other side of the board?

Looks good. What did you use as focus point for the speakers?

I can see that in burps it has no effect, but what about bass race?

What about normal H20 through the pipes and design nr1? (I'm not going to make it, at least not in the near future, just letting my mind roam free)

What about something like this: The green is the the tubing, liquid nitrogen would flow through. Or a more complex cooling with cooling of the magnet:

whats the main problem, thermal or mechanical?