niceguy

I'm thinking of using them as well but in a 2 way setup, replacing the midrange/tweeter. They should go that low but whether it will sound good is another thing....BTW, what would you use for a port, a straw or something?? Jeremy

Hey just noticed the newer replies.....Yeah, I'm still waiting to see some feedback on AA's Arsenal lineup (quite a few are disappointed at the initial specs but doesn't matter till they crank them up).... I already have dual Atlas12s ported in my van (now need a bigger amp but staying clear of Ikesound for now-and I wanted that 1100D so much...) so I doubt I'll even consider the Alliance... NG, I'm still not sure what I'm going to do right now but I'll shoot you a PM when I know. My sub amp just partially died and I'm using an OLD Pioneer H-50 amp (like 25x2/150x1) on my Memphis MC12 so money's going to be a little tight right now... I'm kindof wanting something with a little more kick than the Atlas. The Atlas does alright down low but I prefer a little more impact/punch and don't know if the RL-i will do it. Is that a TC2+ motor? How does it compare/differ from the Atlas setup in sound/output? Jeremy

Man, I wish that Rl-p would work w/my ProfileCA800 but it's 600w@4ohm bridged or 300x2 @2ohm IIRC....crud.... Jeremy

Well the enclosure must be nearly the same as the current one: 1.25cf or less (though fill could be used), work well off of 300w rms and sound prettty good while delivering some solid impact. I prefer tight hard hitting bass than low rumbling notes so I want a sub that is designed with that in mind (though I realize alignment is a large factor as well). The AA Atlas12 gets fairly loud and sounds decent, but the bass was, I'm not sure how to describe it....hollow? I just didn't like the way it sounded sealed. I tried it 2 of 3 ways (didn't feel like adding a resistor) and just didn't care for the way it sounded. It's hard to describe. Honestly, I liked the way my bro-in-law's RF HE 12" in a sealed box (w/some boost) sounded, though at louder volumes it was very flatulent and sounded terrible (no SQ at all). I'm still waiting to see what AA's future lineup will include but I'm still considering the RL-i. My MClass12 has nearly enough bass, but I've had to resort to adding about 4db of boost at the amp to give it some life. Jeremy

Oh, I was hoping that RL-i 12 was dual 2 or single 4.... I was really tempted..... Jeremy

Well, not sure how to take that from a woman with a hair lip..? I need to make sure that the RL-i 12" will definitely be louder than the Atlas (300w rms), that's my dilemna right now. A shop suggested I look into the Diamond CM3 and even more so, the Treo TSX 12"...said he could sell me a TSX12 for $150 and can handle 3-500w rms+.... Just not sure what to go with at this point...just has to be louder than a single sealed Atlas12... Jeremy

How do these compare SQ and SPL wise?? I'm waiting to hear from a guy about a used RL-i 12" but also there's a local Treo dealer who said he'd sell me a TSX 12"D2 for $150 new w/3 yr warranty. It seems the 2 are fairly close in rms power, the SS being from 300-500 rms (I think) and the Treo being around 400rms (claimed it's underrated)... I imagine that both have more than adequate sound quality, but what about output? Any experience w/the Treo line? The dealer mentioned how the Treo is a 'unique design that makes it louder than it should be', take that for what you will. I'm limited on power (~300-400w rms) so I just want to make the most of what I buy and have something that will hopefully get louder than my Ascendant Audio Atlas12... Jeremy

I'm not sure about what I'll replace the fronts with yet. I've already gone the DIY route w/my Grand Voyager work van. I cut the panels and reworked the metal door frame some to accomodate 6.5" Peerless CSC-X midbasses and am using some Madisound designed passives (huge compared to the REs) and some cheap Goldwood tweets (shame on me I know). I'll probably be getting a Maxima soon (not sure which gen yet) so I'm likely going to go w/some nice 5x7 coaxes in case I don't keep the Altima. I've heard of setting the gains w/a DMM before and I have one, but what exactly is the process? Could you fellas walk me through it? Jeremy

Thanks for the info Denim....now I'm debating between the RL-i and Ascendant's new lineup.... Jeremy

Thanks for the suggestions... I'm already running the front speakers w/the gains down so I've eliminated that possibility. In fact, the fronts still got just as loud at the same fairly low volume (20-30) when only being run off the HU. I definitely feel that given the weak HU voltage I have to start with, I'm hurting myself by not going much past halfway. But given the current situation, I don't see how I can set it even close to 3/4 (approx. 40-45 out of 62) without going deaf. I'm thinking of replacing the Jensens w/some AlpineTypeR or equivalent (nothing fancy, wife has the car 80%) coaxial. Perhaps the Jensens are extremely harsh and bright and are part of the problem. But I will flatten all EQ settings and try the DMM gain technique. I have no doubt the sub would be more noticeable above half volume...it's just a matter of being able to stand the fronts at the same time Jeremy

I'm not sure what I'm doing or not doing but this is my problem: I'm running a single Memphis MClass 12" sub in a 1.2cf sealed box that's powered by a USAcoustics2100 (300x1@4ohms/12.9v)in a '93 Altima sedan. My HU is a Pioneer 5500mp w/2v preouts, 2 cheapo (soon to be replaced) Jensen 5x7s in the front doors which are amped by a Hifonics Falcon (90x2 @4ohms). When driving around, w/the gains down on the front speaker amp, my average listening volume is around 20-30 (20 if my wife is with me) out of 62 (car's quiet inside and volume at 30 is plenty sufficient from front speakers). Any louder and the midrange and highs start screaming at me but toning down the mids/highs on my Pioneer HU sounds much less detailed and not enjoyable. Problem is, my sub is hardly noticeable at a volume of 20-30, esp if rock music. The sub is xover at 80 (same as front speakers), there is no bass boost being used at the amp of HU, and gains are set appropriately, which is usually close to maximum input. My HU has 3 EQ bands: L, M and H. I keep the Highs around +3, M around +2/+3 for midbass, and the L around -1 to keep the sub from sounding too muddy and boomy. I've even played w/the Q. Can you guys suggest something or see something I'm doing wrong? I'd like to keep this HU and don't think a line driver is the answer. Thanks Jeremy

I'm considering buying a used Rl-i 12" to use in my '93 Nissan Altima. I've run an Ascendant Audio Atlas12" (now part of a set in my work van) as well as a Memphis PR12 and currently, an MClass12" (Memphis also). I'm using a smallish 1.2cf sealed box w/o any fill and have a USAcoustics2100 (300x1 @4ohm/12.9v). The MClass has pretty good SQ but lacks output (not as loud as the PR IMO). What is the VC configuration of the older RL-i 12 and would the power I have be enough to be happy with it or does it require more? Any box sizes that would work better sealed? How does it compare w/the subs I mentioned if any of you have owned or heard them? Thanks!! Jeremy