ShagggDiesel

glad it was an easy fix! X2! Don't be embarassed.. Be happy that you were wise enough to ask us the question before sending that amp off! Glad I could help..

We MAY have found the problem then.. try putting everything back, and tightening down that fuse really good to make sure it doesn't move or come loose, and see how it does. If the problem still occurs, check your grounds like I said before. If all that is good, then we'll try some more troubleshooting. we'll try to work out everything we can before having to send that amp off for nothing.. been there done that.. it sucks having to wait a month and a half to get back a perfectly fine amp and then finding out all that was wrong was a loose bolt on your ground connection.

What about the bolt that held the fuse at that point? If it was loose, the fuse could have moved around while driving, causing power to cut in and out to the amp, also causing those little spot weld marks on the fuse.

That, or spot welding from a ground coming loose and then catching again repetitively. Read my edit from my first post.

Is it broken now? It looks like it might be on the right side, but it's hard to tell from the picture. If the fuse is still in tact, then your problem lies elsewhere. I would however take some steel wool or a metal brush and clean off the connection points a bit just to be safe. Also, if the fuse is broken, the amp shouldn't come on at all.. EDIT: your problem sounds like a grounding issue. Check your grounds and make sure none of them are loose, and make sure they are on bare metal.. IE: No paint between the connection and the metal.

How far is Carlisle from Danville? I want to hear this setup!! I'm getting my 12" BTL this saturday.. I don't know of anyone else around my area with Fi/Sundown products

Thank you for the input M. The AP1800 runs around 200 new, and it's rated at 1800 rms. That's the closest thing I've found to my power goal and budget.

$250 max

Even refurbed, those still shoot up there. I've heard good ratings from the higher powered AP series.. Such as the AP3001d. If i were to go up to the 3kw range, that was going to be one of my main choices due to it's price and feedback. I'm trying to sqeeeze a quarter out of a dime here.. leaving for college this coming summer. Need to get this install done and start saving.

All that sounds lovely.. But whether or not I'm getting the full 2k or not means to me. I just want to know If I set up let's say.. a SAZ 2500d , then a 3500d, listen to both blindfolded, would I be able to tell enough difference to be worth paying the difference? And no, I won't be adding another sub in the future, so I wont need the overhang for another speaker for installs ahead. If anything, future installs will be smaller and SQ based.

Ohh 300? Buy another Icon, fix this one for little to nothing..DUAL ICON SETUP FTW I need to start letting my friends drink around my BTL

Update your sig

X2, or even BL's. Unless you're just going for looks. Which to me performance > looks. AND Quality > quantity. But to each has their own.. You'd just be saving space, and it'd probably sound better going the routes that have been mentioned above. The "wow" factor of being loud from a small number of drivers as opposed to being loud with a bunch of big drivers is more impressive to me.

My girlfriend finally confessed she wants some bass in her ride. So I'm trying to figure out what I want to do as far as her sub. I'm looking for a decent 10".. nothing special. Rated around 300-800 rms. SPL or SQ don't outweigh each other here.. this is more or less just practice for me as far as my box building goes, and adding a little bass to her Saturn Ion. Preferably need a d2 so I can get a final 4 ohm load to bridge. I'll probably just be getting a cheap 2 ohm stable A/B amp to push it.. She doesn't care or have the ear to tell the difference in quality so it doesn't really matter. My budget is no more than ~100-120 after shipping for the sub. I'm open to all ideas, and if anyone has a sub for sale around this range, DO let me know! I am open to 12" subs too, as long as they don't require a massive box and don't exceed my budget. I will probably be building a ported box for this sub, since I haven't before. Like I said, It will be practice for me.. And if I mess up, she won't care

Just placed my order!

So mainly DCON or SA so far, I looked into the Fi SSD and it takes 800RMS. I don't think the amp will push it well. Is that correct? Also everyone is mainly saying 12", is it going to be a big difference between a single 12 vs 10? Trying to save as much trunk space as possible. Also looks like every one is leaning on the ported side as well. No one here likes the RE's anymore? I remember when all the forums use to be about RE's... How about Skar Audio VVX-12 $169 ( I havent heard much on this sub though) or a Fi X? a 10" in an optimal box will out perform a 12" in a cramped box any day. A 10" driver such as a Dcon in an optimal ported enclosure will sound great on low power. Not much space needed. Since RE started adding "X's" to everything, all their subs have gone People used to talk about them all the time because their old drivers were awesome, and now their new generations are just watered down budget made drivers. As far as the Skars, they are pretty new to the game.. not many people with personal experience. But made around the same people affiliated with SSA (Mark etc...). Fi X would be a nice choice as well for a low price. For low power and space, I'd vote between a 10" Dcon or X in a ported enclosure on about ~300 watts and call it a day.

I upgraded from 4g (CCA) wire to 1/0 welding cable when I got a larger system, and I've been 100% satisfied with mine. Only thing I can see that CA wire has an advantage over the welding cable is looks. Welding cable jacket is ugly and dull.. but who cares right? 90% of it is hidden anyway.. My vote goes towards getting welding cable all around and just tossing the idea of the Knu. It's going to be cheaper that way and more efficient.

There's also the AP1500D. Heard those things do rated as well. Just throwing names

Wait the subs where in the glass with the magnets outside?!?!? WTF?!? Yeah dude it was redneck as hell.. Oh I almost forgot to add the rebel flag tailgate and trailer hitch truck nuts.

that's nothing. I saw a pic of a truck one time with 2 12's in an IB setup in his rear glass.. held in by scrap 2X4's, with the magnets exposed to the outside. I think they were audiobahns

It will not give you any gain, the cable essentially splits the voltage between the two. So are there any downfalls to splitting a signal this way?

Sir.. People REALLY need to start taking your advice more often. Pics or didn't happen.

Gotta spread the love!! Haha. Congrats on the Mod position btw big guy

Sir.. People REALLY need to start taking your advice more often.

Question: Let's say you're in a situation that you need to use this.. perhaps.. Your HU only has one RCA output, but you need to run an amp for Mids/Highs and an Amp for your Subs. If you split the RCA signal from the ONE output on the HU and run the single signal (tongue twister ftw) to both amps, does it affect the output voltage at all as opposed to just running a single cable straight from the HU to one amplifier?