ShagggDiesel

If you're sticking to this amp, make sure you get the coil configuration to get a final 2 ohm load to get the most out of it. The 3000d is only 2 ohm stable. It's 2 AP1500D's strapped inside itself

They will all magically appear under everyones christmas trees on the morning of December 25th

The situation: Getting my 12" BTL this weekend.. The amplifier I have currently is going to have my sub screaming for .. I'm wanting to feed it at least 2k rms. The question: Assuming I have the electrical to run 3000 watts at a stable voltage, would it be and audible difference from 2000 watts just on a daily setup? This is not for numbers at all. Simply for listening experience. I've heard answers coming from both ends.. I don't want to spend an extra 100-200$ on another 1kw if it's not going to be any louder to MY ear than 2000 watts. For those who must know the amp I have now, it's a Lanzar MAXP1200d. There are NO available RMS ratings for this amp online that I can find anywhere other than 450 watts at 4 ohm.. only MAX ratings. (900 watts @2ohm and 1800 watts @1ohm) and we all know how likely those numbers are. And before I get flamed for having this amp, it was given to me as a replacement when I sold my Memphis ST-1000d. If there is another thread that already answers my question, if someone could just link me to it, would be much appreciated. Couldn't find anything with search function. Thanks!

Definitely interesting. Never seen a box built like this.. What kind of vehicle is this going in? And is the port going to be rear or forward firing?

Why not just take your inline fuse out and take it with you? That way there's no chance of anything getting damaged at all.

Does the faceplate come off of the HU or does it just shut off? If it just comes off, You could get some industrial strength velcro and put a strip on the back of the faceplate, and a strip on the HU to keep it on there possibly. That is if there's a gap big enough for the velcro to fit. I know there would be just enough room in mine. This would save you the risk of damaging your unit from soldering, and keep you from having to use things like tape to hold it on which can look quite ghetto-fab.

Is the faceplate removable? If so, you could have a loose/broken connection between the faceplate and the unit itself when it's connected. You say the CD motor still works, so the unit is still receiving power. There's got to be a problem elsewhere in the unit

Does your ranger have the factory 6x9 pods behind the seats? My friends ranger had them and we had to take them out when we installed his 2 10's. As stated above, it can be done, but he was hugging the steering wheel for quite a long time.

8,400,000 watts. Make an amp that will power that much! Show me a street legal daily driving vehicle with an electrical system to support that.

You realize that you're going to get more out of your amp by wiring each of your 4 speakers my wiring them to independent channels right? 125 watts @2 ohms means 125 watts total power for that channel, so if you're running 2 speakers off that one channel @ 2 ohms, each speaker is only seeing roughly 60 watts because the power (125 watts) is being shared between the 2 speakers as opposed to wiring each speaker to a single channel @ 4 ohms getting 75 watts total power. See what I'm saying? If you wire 4 speakers to 2 channels @ 2 ohms each, you'll be getting about 60 watts X4, but if you wire each speaker to it's own channel, you will be getting 75 watts X 4. Someone correct me if I've misread something and ranted off-topic..

Or you could plan on 2 15" SSD's. You could buy one 15, try it in the enclosure you have now for the Mojo (that is, if it's volume is around specs for the SSD) and compare it to the Mojo. If you like it, you can order your 2nd SSD and start your new box for the 2 15's Less space than the 18's, and I'm sure the output will still be quite a bit more than the single Mojo.

I didn't mean constant, I should probably change that. I meant that the HU won't stay on. I have no switched power source.. Hence the reasoning for wiring to the fuse panel? Which wire should be ran to the fuse panel though? I figured it would obviously be the ignition (red) on the harness on the H/U but that didn't work so idk.

I'm in the process if replacing a factory head unit in a guys 2006 Dodge Charger. I wen't to the local dealer to get a wiring harness because it was the only place around that carries the model that I needed. When I asked for it, he told me that the part I needed was $140 however, he would sell me a standard harness that would work for 25, but I would have to run a remote wire to the fuse panel under the hood. He said that the ignition wire would be useless and I would have to do something along the lines of wiring the remote, ignition (red) on the HU, and the remote from the fuse panel all together to get it to work. This had me puzzled, but I tried it anyway.. with no success. I also tried using the ignition wire and wiring the harness to the HU normally like you would to any other vehicle with no success. I can press power on the HU and it will come on and display the time for about 3 seconds and then power off, but that's all. I even tried wiring the constant power and the ignition wire together just to get the HU to power on, and STILL nothing. I checked ALL the fuses in the fuse panel to make sure none were blown. At this point I don't know what else to but to ask you guys for some advice on other routes to take. The HU I'm working with is a JVC KD-R310. Wal Mart material.

I need some sort of answer before thursday..

Anything RE with an "X" on the end of it.. I'd stay away from.

OP said they would both be in optimal enclosures. So.. I still stand by my reply.

As far as "loudness", hard to give an answer. But I can almost guarantee I know which one would sound cleaner and more accurate.

Here's a vid of me doing the cuts for my girlfriends sealed box for her 10" Dcon. We're doing a ported one next week and seeing which one suits her best. Both boxes built to SSA's optimal specs. Her dad owns a shop with TONS of machinery and this happens to be one.. and he's giving me access to it all whenever I want.. so I'm starting my box-making experiences with the best of the best Enjoy the vid! I'll be posting more pictures/vids of the build later on as things progress. I'm currently in high-school and working 30+ hours a week so I'm limited on time.. but I'm doing as much as I can when I can. ANYWAY . . . Here's the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kH5VrvpdhI

Don't base your decision off of videos. Get as much feedback from people with personal experience with these drivers and such. The Fi BTL N2's have not been released yet, this is why you can't find anything on them. However, they are essentially the same thing as the previous generation BTL with the single slug magnet (UFO shaped).

You mean your subjective name dropping won't help here. Correct. How do you measure unsinkable? Considering that was your only response it surely verifies that indeed measurements on drivers are right and you have nothing to refute them. And yep, subjective nonsense won't help. Snake oil is NOT something anyone on here subscribes to. QUOTED. lol

This too ^^^ There are some shops that can take your factory alt and beef it up some.. I've seen some go from 70 amp to about 130. Not much but it's better than nothing. that is a possibility but i would not recommend it because when they "rewound" the alt. the actual idle is worse than original. Really? Hmm.. Well I know not to take that route anymore

This too ^^^ There are some shops that can take your factory alt and beef it up some.. I've seen some go from 70 amp to about 130. Not much but it's better than nothing.

The best way to answer this question is to get the amp, run it at your maximum listening levels, check your voltage drops, and add betteries until your satisfied with your voltage. We can't give you a number and have a pre-set fix for you. This is a situation that only you can figure out with your own testing.