ShagggDiesel

Thanks for your suggestion. My problem is that the port is external, so there's no way to drill into the baffle from the inside of the port, and the box is already assembled. The sub opening is too small to even fit a drill down into.

I'm going to be purchasing a table saw in the near future. My question is: how big do I need? The only local place to buy MDF in my area only sells in 4x8 sheets, so I'd have rinse this saw with that initially. I found a nice looking one at lowes for $150. It's a 10". I don't know what the 10 inches refers to.. Would that be big enough to get the job done on a 4x8 sheet of MDF? If not, what about 4x4? I think lowes can cut the sheets in half for me.

I'm going to be building an enclosure for a friend here in the next couple of weeks for 4 10's. I drew out the layout of the box on a big piece of paper. The original plan was to have the 4 subs upfiring with the port facing back. However, 2 of the subs are really close to the port opening in the box. I'm just wondering if the subs being as close as they are, if it will affect the way the subs perform. I have an alternate plan to face 2 of the subs upfiring toward the middle of the top baffle, and have 2 rear firing on the same baffle as the port. I have drawn a simple sketchup of what it would look like in both situations so you kind of get an idea of what I'm talking about. Which route would be the best to go with? The setup will be going in the trunk of a Grand Am. Original Plan: http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l199/playerskater28/topviewbox.png Alternate Plan: http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l199/playerskater28/topviewbox2.png http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l199/playerskater28/frontviewbox.png

I sold my old system to a buddy back in my home state. It's a Fi BTL 12" (2nd gen) on a hifonics brutus 2610d. He called me last night saying that he hadn't played the system in a little over a week, but when he got back in the car, the sub was hardly playing, but would occasionally kick back in for a few seconds. He said the amp stayed on without going into protect. I had him check his Subwoofer HU setting, check the RCA's, and the speaker wires connected to the amp. He said everything looked to be fine. The only thing that I can think of is that a wire came loose from one of the coils in the box and the sub is only seeing half power and only on 1 coil. Any other thoughts on what the problem could be? I don't know what could have happened to it from just sitting for a week with no play time at all. Temperatures have dropped a lot over the week. I don't know if that could cause something to go wrong or not. What do you guys think?

Hey guys.. I just released a little mixtape of some of my music as a teaser for my real upcoming mixtape to be released by the end of winter. I am an 18 year old Recording Engineer/Producer, currently enrolled at Middle Tennessee State University majoring in the Recording Industry. On the side of recording other people for income, I do a little bit of rapping/singing myself. If you guys don't mind, check out my music and tell me what you think! If you don't want to make an account on DatPiff, I'll post a link to my youtube and facebook pages that have my music as well. Thanks in advance! Mixtape - http://www.datpiff.com/Shag-Sheldon-Smith-The-White-Noise-mixtape.265753.html Facebook Fanpage - http://www.facebook.com/ShagggAttack YouTube - http://www.YouTube.com/ShagggDiesel Oh, and yes. I'm white...

Thanks for the feedback fellas! Anybody else check this out yet?

Yessir! And god knows I'll still be on here if that time comes.. Especially if it brings in the money to do the installs I've always wanted to do.. haha. Gotta share the build logs and whatnot with the fam!

I've actually met both Jelly and Wyte.. they're usually around my area when I'm back in Kentucky. And Mac Miller's DJ, DJ Clockwork follows me on twitter if that counts for anything... haha

Can a mod chime in and let me know if this post is breaking the rules in some way? I know some are strict on promoting.. this is entirely non-profit though.

2x on the audiopipe 1800d. Not bad amps for the price..

fiberglass the tubes?

Look into audiopipe. Usually some good buy it now deals on eBay.

Yes. Except you'd have a final load of 1 ohm, not 4.

Topper covered it. I had two of these in a pre fab ported box on a 1000 watt Memphis amp for my first system. I kinda wish I kept them to experiment with now that I'm more knowledgeable with car audio.

Nothing wrong with it.. just more trouble than it's worth IMO. But to each their own.

I had this problem with a Hifonics Brutus 2610D.. There was something wrong with the inputs on the amp. I bought a ground loop isolator for like 8 bucks and it eliminated the problem. However, I think there was some sort of low end rolloff built into it because I didn't feel like the lows picked up as good with the isolator installed. Just an idea if you're still wanting to use the old amp.

I hope you don't cut the port as a part of your baffle like you have pictured.

or just get one amp that is equivalent to the power of two amps, save money, and trouble.

Here's the situation. I recently purchased a TV and surround sound system for my college apartment. I'm trying to get audio from my TV to the surround sound receiver via RCA. The problem is that the only audio output that my TV has is a coaxial output. The Receiver only has RCA inputs. Is there some sort of cable or converter type deal that can run a Coax cable and split into an RCA on the other end to put into the receiver?

If you're wanting to add drivers, Skar specifically, I'd get 4 subs and take the money you would have spent on the other 2, and upgrade your power. You could sell your current amp as well to add to funding. That way you're getting the best of both worlds.. more drivers + more power = epic deebeez

I don't personally know the pricing on them, but Orion HCCA's have a cool looking cone IMO. The outer mount ring is red I'm pretty sure, But could be sanded down and painted to your desired color with minimal effort.

I have a really bad alternator whine. I have a JVC HU with only ONE RCA output. I'm running 2 separate amplifiers: 1 for Sub, 1 for Mids/Highs. Since my unit only has 1 pre-out, I bought some RCA splitters and just ran 2 sets of RCA's from the HU to the rear, sharing the signal between the 2 amps. I then found that there was quite a bit of whine.. However, when I would unplug the RCA's from the bass amp, the whine would disappear. "Ok, bad cable." So I switched the RCA's to see if that was the case, to find that there was still a whine whenever the bass amp RCA's were in. Which makes no sense because the signal plays fine from the mid/high amp without the bass amp RCA's in, no matter which cable was in. So confused, I made the assumption that maybe splitting the signal was somehow "straining?" the unit by doing so. So I cancelled the splitters, and just ran 1 set of RCA's to the rear into the sub amp, then used the outputs from that amp to run the other set of RCA's over to the mid/high amp. (I would have done this in reverse but my mid/high amp does't have pre-outs). Crossing my fingers, I turn on my car, only to hear that god-awful whine. At this point I'm just beyond confused. The only time I have whine is when the sub amp has RCA's connected, even though the signal from the sub amp has nothing to do with the signal going to the mid/high amp. Does anyone know where to go as far as troubleshooting from here?

Well I've tried pretty much everything now.. Just got a ground loop isolator to run my RCA's through hoping that would help. but nothing. I'm guessing there's just a problem within the amps inputs. *sigh*

RCA's are ran on opposite side of vehicle. Nothing changed when I wiggled them at the amp inputs. The head unit is grounded securely, not stock location. I'm pretty sure they are monster RCA's. The mid/high amp Is a temporary 400 watt dual until my 100.4 comes through. I've used it for a while with no whine until this hifonics was installed. It will play a clear signal without whine when the sub amp is not connected to RCA's. My only guess is that something in the amp is wrong. Question: how do you ground RCA cables?

I've checked the ground. Secure. How do I go about testing the input jacks?