ShagggDiesel

I really don't think the sub or amp isat fault here. I have a feeling that something just isnt set right or something is missing. Have you checked all RCA connections? You could always get an oscope and see if turning the sub control up is actually sending a distorted signal, I think? Maybe that's just for setting the gain on the amp.. It seems it would work in the same concept though.

1/2" MDF? For a Zcon? Throw that box away before you do break it while playing and destroy that beautiful sub. A good enclosure will do wonders. You should not be questioning that Zcon at all..

This is what I' talk about.. it went from 0 to whatever the max was for that particular HU. Never owned one that went into the negatives..

With a subwoofer level on the headunit set to 0, there will be no output voltage.. With the subwoofer level all the way up, the output voltage will be at norm, as if there were no level control at all. It'd be producing the HU's regular output voltage. This is how EVERY single HU I've used with a built in Sub level control has been anyway..

What are those clamps you're using for the corners? Those look sweet! I need a couple of those.

This sounds like speaker wire that is touching metal somewhere. Possibly cut the coat somewhere that the wire is run from your amp to the speaker. Try re-running that speaker wire and see what that does. I had this problem once..

I see you're from Somerset. I'm not too far from you..

They look pretty solid... I'd probably add at least a 1/4" MDF ring to them though. Just for a little extra support on the plastic. EDIT: If there is a such thing as 1/4" MDF.. haha. Could go ahead and use 3/4 if you have the space for it.

It should still be accurate.. just take what ever number is displayed and moved the decimal place to the right.

I would definitely see about at least getting some bracing in there.. That baffle is going to be weak with those Icons with only a single baffle. See about a dowel or two from between the 2 sub cutouts to the back wall at least. Edit: I'd be sure to seal up those speaker terminals on the inside as well to minimize leakage...

Are there multiple settings for AC volts? Or is it an automatic DMM? The DMM I use (from around the early 90's) has a turn dial with multiple settings for different measurements.

What is your budget? What are your goals?

All of those things are up to you and what YOU want and what you want to spend. It's going in your vehicle.. no one on here can tell you what you need to do to make it look good. You may have a taste that's different than everyone else. Take the information you've given us and decide what you would like to see in your install and go from there. You say it's not a show car, so you shouldn't be concerned about what other people are going to think about all those little things. From what you stated, this install is for you, so YOU decide how it goes down. "You" count = 11.

I installed a setup with a 10' Dcon on a 300 watt kicker amp in a box tuned to 30 hz. It "dug" the lowes quite nicely. My vote is either the Dcon or the OA.

Friend is looking to buy a sub to put in the back of his Chevy Tracker, with a buget of $100. His goals are strictly output. He wants it loud... He has no idea what SQ is, so that's not an issue. He had 4 12" Wal-Mart Duals at one point and swore they were the best sounding things on the market. He listens to nothing but rap. I will be building the box, tuned to ~33hz for his musical taste. I'm not exactly sure the max volume I can get away with back there, but I know it's not much. I'm guessing a 12 will be the biggest we can go and still remain in optimal specs. He has a 600 watt amp to push whatever he buys @ 2 ohms, or 4 ohms bridged. What are suggestions as to what sub he should get for the $100 range?

Where did you find a 15 foot Zcon? And how did you fit it in your Eclipse?

Then I'd say just recone one of the BTL's still.. save the money for potentially the same output. Spend what you save on something else.

Spend half the coin, gain double the MONSTAAA

Why not recone one of the BTL's to an 18, sell the other BTL (UFO Style), and buy another 18" BTL N2 and have 2 18's?

I'm adding a budget sub stage to my girlfriends 99 Chevy Blazer. It will be 2 powerbass PS-12's on a 600 watt el cheapo amp. Her main choices of music are mainly alternative rock (Matchbox Twenty, Weezer, Audioslave, etc), and country. My question is, what would be the optimal enclosure for this listening style? Would sealed be best for this setup, or a slightly high tuned ported one? (If so, what frequency?) The goals of this system is not necessarily major output, but mainly just adding a good sounding blended sub stage. She doesn't need it to be super loud, but she does want some decent output to be there when she wants it. I will be installing a bass knob for her so she can control the amount of output. What are some suggestions on what route to take as far as this enclosure? Thanks in advance.

Bump

Anybody have any experience with these blazers? Should I go with subs up/port back or subs and port back? I have the box built already, just haven't cut the holes yet. So it could be done either way. Waiting to do that til the subs come in because I can't find any cutout diameter info anywhere online for these subs.

Yes. It says a minimum of 2.5ft^3 per sub ported.. Seems a bit large to me for such a small low powered driver. I'll be doing a 4.5ft^3 after sub and port displacement for these.

I've been steadily trying to find the best way to mount ordinary PVC pipe in a box. I looked at lowes and found these "Closet Flanges". They Fit on the inside or outside of the PVC (depending on size, in my case, the inside of a 4" pvc). The flanges have a, well.. flange on the outside with 4 screw holes that could be used for mounting. I think this would work perfectly, except when the flange is inserted into the pipe, it's about 1/8" thick and reduces the diamater of the end of the pipe to about 3.75". Is this enough to alter the affects of the port? The decrease in diameter is only about 1-1.5" long, then it flares back out to 4". What are you guys opinion? Here's a link to an example of the flange. This thing.