ShagggDiesel

My buddy recently ordered a brand new Fi X 15 without the BP option the other day for me as a gift. I plan on putting it in my girlfriends 2 door blazer. Anybody have experience with the new 750 watt RMS models of these subs? She currently has a VVME 1500 watt amp powering 2 old powerbass M-12's. These amps have clamped around 1400 watts at 1 ohm. I know the X is the entry level from Fi, but it should be able to handle a clean 1400 watts, right? Also, Anyone know the best sub/port combo for a blazer? The current setup is subs and port back. I havent tried anything else in there. It's pretty flat down to about 40hz but below that is a steep drop off. I was thinking sub up port back, but I wanted some other input before I start designing.

I currently have two Obsidian Audio OA12 V2's running off of 2 Audiopipe APSM1500's strapped @ 1 ohm. I used to own a Fi BTL 12" UFO motor sub before this system but on less power. The guy that currently has my old BTL is wanting to trade straight up for my two Obsidians. I think my Obsidian setups is a bit louder than the BTL was, but I really liked the way the BTL sounded, and it's able to handle the power I'm currently running better than the OA's. I'm considering the trade, but I'm looking for other opinions on whether or not this would be a good trade or not.

I was thinking about reconing to a 15, but I'm not sure about being able to fit it into the trunk. I have to slide the BTL in through the back seats and it barely fits that way. I only have about a 16" clearance to work with unless I built the box inside the trunk, which I'm trying to avoid.

No, that is not an option. I am running in a trunk of a Grand Am. The box I currently have for the OA's is even under recommended volume, but it's the biggest I could fit and still be able to put it in and remove it without any issues. The box I have for the BTL is also the biggest I can fit, but is actually built to specs of the sub.

I'm planning to build a budget setup to listen to music while I'm at work. I operate a CNC router in a wood mill which is extremely noisy, and requires ear plugs to operate all day. I need something loud enough to hear from ~5ft away under these conditions. Obviously fidelity is out of the question, so high dollar equipment isn't necessary. Just need to hear my music. I plan on using my Lepai 2020+ amplifier powering 2 Pyle 6" midrange speakers and a pair of Pyle PSN1165 tweeters. My question: If i wire a mid and tweeter to each channel, will I need a crossover of some sort, or for this setup will a plug and play be fine? The only controls this amp has is volume, and a sub-par bass/treble control. Will sending full range signal to these speakers damage anything? This amp will only be putting out around 10-14 watts, but I am unsure as to what that amounts to here. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated.

I enjoy building these kind of things. Makes the work day a little more enjoyable being able to see and hear something I've put together. Just something pleasing to me. As far as a full range driver, will that be loud enough to overcome the noise generated by these routers without some sort of horn or supertweeter? Imagine the sound of a table saw cutting MDF, amplified many times in a large building being produced by 3 routers simultaneously alongside a vacuum system that is just about as noisy as the machinery. That, and the fact that this Lepai is only producing 10-15 watts maximum. I had a pair of coaxials in small enclosures I built running off of this amp for another position I was in at work where the noise wasn't such an issue, and it got pretty loud. I'd like to stay under $30 for both speakers if I go the full ranger route. Any input or suggestions here? P.S. The whole setup has to have a relatively small footprint as well, so 8 inch or smaller drivers.

I just don't enjoy having something like that on my head all day.. I can barely stand ear plugs or I would just get some noise isolating ear buds.

Thanks a lot for the info. One final question: Given my scenario, which is trying to hear my music over the noise in my work area, why would I need to make my tweeters more quiet? I could understand trying to get them to blend with the midrange better, but as I mentioned, fidelity isn't really a major concern. I suppose I could try these without any sort of resistance and see how I like it and try out different resistors later on.

With a resistor, what exactly is it doing? I've looked at these, and I am unsure what to get. I see lots of different resistance options and whatnot. Could you explain what they do compared to a crossover and what I would need exactly?

Have you looked into the Obsidian OA series? Cheaper in price, but very similar. I've owned both, and have to say that I like the Obsidians better as far as output and SQ. Currently running ~3000 watts to two of them and they have yet to even get warm.

I'm going to be running two amps here soon, one per sub. My question: Instead of having to run one bass knob to each amp/sub, could I somehow use just one for both? They are the Audiopipe APSM1500 amps. The knobs have the 3.5mm cable from the knob to the amp. They are like a headphone jack from what I can tell. Could I just use a headphone splitter from one knob and run the two separate wires from the splitter to the two amps?

There is no master/slave option on these amps. How does that work? How do you decide which one is master?

Well would I be better off to strap my amps at 2 ohms?

My friend has an amp with the same type of jack. It looks to be stereo.

Sorry, I meant D2 in both situations. I don't currently have the amps, they are in transit to my house at the moment.

Would it benefit me more to strap two D4 subs at 2 ohms, or run each D2 sub at 1 ohm per amp separate?

Phone splitter? Hmm.. Not sure if that's what I would need.I mean this cable literally looks like a headphone extension cable, with a male end that plugs into the amp.

I am unsure. It is the knob that comes with the Audiopipe APSM1500. Most control knobs that I have used have been the data cable type, or direct RCA level control knobs. This one is as I mentioned, a headphone jack type.

I have a cheap 2 channel Lightning Audio amp that was given to me. I first hooked it up on my bench to see if it worked. It did, however, it sounded like it was only playing sound that was panned hard left/right and nothing below about 500hz. I took it apart, and the ground that was soldered to the board from the RCA's was broken. If you pushed the RCA's so that the connection was made, it played fine, but one channel was about half as loud as the other. So I took a set of RCA inputs from another amp that didn't work and replaced the ones on the LA amp. The exact same situation.. One channel is twice as loud as the other. I've tried 3 different sets of RCA cables and 3 different sources of input to the amp, all with the same results. Anyone know what or why this could be? Nothing else on the board looks to be blown or burnt. If you bridge the amp, it plays the same volume as the channel that is twice as loud as the other. However, it will play bridged if the + is wired the + on one channel, and the - is wired to the + on the other channel as well instead of - . How could this be?

I was given an old MTX TP3002 from my girlfriends dad the other day because he didn't think it worked anymore. Well, I replaced all the fuses and terminals. I wired it up and it worked fine. Hooked it to an 8 ohm speaker to test, and it worked. I took it to my car and hooked it to 2 SA-8's bridged at 4 ohms. The subs started popping, then the amp shut off and smoke poured out. The gains and everything were all the way down. Anyone know what could have happened? It worked fine on my test bench in the garage, then fried in my car when subs were wired to it.

Just pondering ideas and wondered why I had never seen anyone use polyurethane on boxes or anything else car audio related? Seems to me like it would be a great finish on the outside, as well as good sealant for the insides of the box. Polyurethane has a very smooth glossy finish which I would think would be great for ports and such.. Which leads me to wonder why it hasn't been used in place of fiberglass in some scenarios. Does anyone have any experience with polyurethane or know why it's never used? One idea I had, was covering an enclosure with playing cards (or anything really) with adhesive spray, then going over the cards with a few layers of poly to give it a sweet glassy look with the cards underneath.

Your buddy wouldn't be Josh Phillips would it?

While a quad 15 Dcon low power wall would be suuuper sick, the most logical way has been stated above. Otherwise, I would do what has also been mentioned.. Build a square box and fill in the trim. I'm sure you have the volume if you extended the box far back enough.

Could remove the ashtray, cut a piece of MDF to the shape of the opening, then put the meters in that flush mounted. Finish the wood with paint to match your interior or something.

I believe that's more common in class a/b amps though. In simple terms. turn the gain down and dont play it so loud. He already fixed his problem.