ShagggDiesel

Welcome to SSA! You've made a great decision

What you have should be plenty sufficient for the BL. I'd say it's going to sound nice. If you're looking for a pounding..I'd tune the box to approx 32 hz. That's a happy medium for what you're looking for from what I know. It's usually a great tuning for most rap songs with good basslines. Now you can always try using a different enclosure with the W7 and see how you like it before you drop 400$ on a BL.. A W7 in a good enclosure will absolutely POUND. But if you're just straight up not satisfied with the W7, then I'd suggest what I've stated above, and you should be satisfied at the least. I'm actually planning on ordering the same sub (15" BL fully loaded 2 ohm DVC) here in the next couple weeks. Good luck with your install! I'd love to see what you end up with when you're done. It's always fun to compare

You shouldn't intercept someone else's post of a question with a question of your own problem. If you need help with something of your own, you should create a new thread. Not to sound like an ass.. just saying. Some people find it rude, and annoying to have other people take over their post with a problem of theirs other than posting advice or help to the original posters question.

Don't mean to sound like a broken record of these guys.. But I would highly suggest at least the HO alt. Make sure you get all the electrical out of the way before you worry about the install. Just to be safe, I'd get a alt., at least one more battery, and have you done the Big 3? Powering a 18 with that much wattage is going to inhale your electric system without these updates

I keep searching for the hats on the site.. still haven't seen any sign of them. What's up? and are the lanyards coming?

good to know thank you! If you want to "plan ahead".. the most I would do is just do the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 and hook everything up and call it a day. See how that does you, and if it's not keeping up, then that's where you can start taking routes such as adding the extra battery and a higher OP alt. Personally, I think your stock electrical will hold up fine.. My first system was a 1000W memphis pushing 2 12" audiobahns, all off of the stock electrical, and 4 gauge power cable. It held up just fine (12.3v was about the lowest the voltage got). The battery was about 5 years old and the alt only put out about 80-100 amps. If you just want to take a cheap route to be prepared, the most effective thing to do, like I said earlier would be to do the big 3. It's a nice thing to already have done anyway, just in case you plan on having a bigger install in the future. The better flow of electricity you have from the alt to the bat, the easier it is for the alt to keep a steady charge on the battery.

I have 2 15" MTX thunder 4500's running at 4 ohms off a memphis 1000 watt d class. I was riding around town today when I noticed a remarkable difference in output.. I checked the subs when I got home, to see that one had NO output at all.. I took the sub out to look at it, and the voice coil seems to be "seperated" or torn away from the spider.. Is this the reason that the sub stopped working, and is it repairable? It's not a major concern, I only had these subs as a temporary fix until I order my 15" Fi BL. It would still be nice to have both of these subs in working order though. Any thoughts? here's a link to a video of what happened.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwHBUcLlb-c

What exactly is considered "close to blown"?

The sony is not bridged, it's wired to one channel.

So my friend blew his 10" PowerBass sub in his pickup truck the other day.. He sent it off to be repaired, and wanted to get something cheap to replace it til it gets back. He goes and buys a 60$ Sony Xplode from wal-mart. He called me up and asked me if I would install his new sub.. not telling me it was a Xplod. So I get to his house and start laughing. But nonetheless, I put it in for him. After it was wired up, I had to see how it sounded.. The Xplod sounded 2x as good, and loud as the PB ever though about being. SMH. The PB was a DVC 4 ohm sub, and the Xplod is a SVC 4 ohm.. I just thought this was pretty humorous, since the local car audio dealer charged him 100$+ for that POS sub.

It looks like the only thing that happened was the glue came loose.. Is it possible to just glue it back together? Or is there a more detailed reason to why this caused it stop working?

Well I mean it's pretty obvious, but is it repairable? And what are the possible reasons that it happened

I didnt think about it like that , unless he was running the Powerbass subwoofer at 2 ohms instead of 8 ohms. It was wired to 2 ohms.

I've been trying to convince him.. And it's a wal mart dual 300 watt.. More garbage. I know

They are similar, but not the same. It's like a 1/2 inch difference if that.. But I found the problem anyway. One of the 2 coils was blown, so he was running off one coil, which when bridged and it still being wired in series, doesn't seem to work so well. He wanted me to "make it work", so I wired it to one channel, with the sub still wired in series. This of course over the course of a day, blew the other coil. Thus resulting in a dead sub. He sent it off to be repaired like an idiot. He wanted something to replace it til it gets back. So he went to wal-mart and bought a 10" Sony Xplod. I installed it while shaking my head and laughing. To my surprise, the Xplod sounds twice as good as the PB did. :|

I have a friend running a 300w PowerBass amp to a 10" powerbass sub in his single cab Ford Ranger. He called me the other day and said he was driving around town "bumping" and his sub randomly quit working. This kid knows little to nothing about car audio, so he calls me with his problems. I went and looked at his amp and sub too see if I could figure anything out. The sub felt warm, and the amp was REALLY hot. When I played music through the system, at a very low volume, (vol 1-3), sound came out fine.. but when it got above that, the protect light came on on the amp, and would burp random thumps (not from the music) about every 3-5 seconds. With the key turned to "On", but with the engine off, I could get the volume to a higher level before it went into protect mode, but it still did. I told him to let the amp cool off for a little while and see if it started working again, for I figured that it just had overheated and needed to cool. He texted me this morning and said it's still doing the same thing. I'm guessing there's a capcitor in the amp thats fried or something.. anyone have any suggestions on what this could be, and what could be done? I know a good bit about car audio, but I'm not the best electrician. So any help would be greatly appreciated. -Shag

so is it bad to burn a flac file to a audio CD? will that change the quality ? Burning to a CD shouldn't decrease the quality, unless it has to convert it in order to burn. I'm not sure if a standard CDR is compatible with .flac, but I've never tried so I could be wrong. But to answer your question, no it should not change the quality by burning it to a CD.

going big in size. going home in performance. FTL

First off, trying to "convert" a file that is good uncompresed quality, to a lower quality file type is a big no-no. All you're doing is compressing the S*** out of the file, which is doing you no good for SQ. You might as well go download an MP3. I am a recording engineer and own a recording studio. When I mix down a session, I usually bounce it to a raw WAV or AIFF file. The wav usually turns out around 40-75MB file, and is nearly uncompressed and sounds great quality wise. But as soon as an artist wants the file in MP3 format to upload to MySpace or something, the quality is instantly downgraded. If you can, find the original format of a file that you can support, and keep it at that. Do not try any converting or anything weird like that. Just find the best you can and stick with it. From what I see, your best bet would be to try and find WAV files, not mp4. Mp4 quality really isn't that much better than mp4.. just look at the file size. Pretty skimpy. Usually the bigger the file size, the less that the file has been compressed, thus better quality. But as stated above, no matter the format, if the original recording was s***, then the quality is going to be the same regardless. Just my .2

the only thing you need to worry about now is getting to english class. rofl x2

From what I see, going with a single 12" would be your best bet. If you're looking for quality and boom, a single 12" will do you best in a 2c^3 enclosure. With that bit of extra airspace, 1 12" will out-perform 2 12's choked up in that small of an eclosure, as well as a single 15" in that small of an eclosure. Quality over quantity. If you're going more for looks than performance, then by all means go for the 2 12's or a 15. It's all personal preference. Look at it like this: You have 20 people standing in a small sealed off room, as opposed to 5 people standing inside the same sized room..which one will it be easier for the people to breathe? Same way when it comes to subs.. they need to breathe. Putting too many in too small of an enclosure is taking that breathing room away, thus lowering the performace and quality of the subs. My .2: Go with the 1 12" and call it a day. But like I said. It's all personal preference. P.S. Port the box. A single 12 in a 2^3 ported box would sound nice for the type of music being played. Port tuned to 30-35hz

Well I'm pretty sure that it's a 4 ohm single coil sub.. I havn't taken the sub out of the box to look though. I think the dual 4 ohm version of this sub has a higher mounting depth that wouldn't fit in the enclosure he has it in.. but then again I could be wrong. I'll take a look at it today and see what it is, and if it's a dual 4 ohm then I'll take your advice and wire it in series, and bridge it on the amp.

Found the problem. The local car audio shop that installed his system had the sub bridged on the amp. I wired the sub to one channel and now it works fine..

I've checked all connections and it has a proper ground. I'm almost positive there's a problem with the amp

I've posted one thread similar to this one once before, But I felt the need to make one a little more clear. I own a Pontiac Grand Am. One of the worst vehicles to work with when it comes to car audio installs due to very limited room. I got an idea the other day sitting in the front seat looking back at my folded down back seats. I figured.. what if I took the open area where my seats fold down leading to my trunk area, put up one peice of 3/4 or so MDF across that opening, cutting a opening in it for the 18" BTL and another for a port that's tuned to 30-35 hz and using my entire trunk area as the enclosure, without the need to build an enitre box. Since there is not enough room in my trunk to build a logical box for an 18", this seemed like a pretty genius idea. I'd of course be covering the entire lining of the trunk with DynoMat/SecondSkin (some sort of dampener). So my question is, would this be a good idea? Or would I be making myself look like a complete idiot? Like I said, I've never seen this done so I don't know if it's logical or not. Any professional advice or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. I will be taking pictures later today to post on this thread to help get the idea across a little clearer. Thanks in advance guys! -Shag