Stumbo

Coil overs are your best bet. Check out one of the million Honda forums and they should be able to help you out. I would never go with air shocks. Shock mounting points are not designed to take the stress of the entire weight of a car, that's the springs job. Plus it will ride and handle horrible. This would be the cheapest and easiest method, however.

Lol sorry to disappoint guys, but I'm not a scammer

I almost threw up the first time i saw it, i laughed so hard.

Pods look great! I ran vifas in my truck and loved them, I will probably use a set again for my next buildup. Are you going active or passive?

Check out partsexpress.com for crossovers, they have a few different models that should fit your needs. Normally I just build my own, however I went ahead and used one of them in my office speakers and I was very happy with the results. Oh, and I agree with everybody else, go 2 way .

I dont know if you have bit the bullet already, but check ebay for that bulb. There are a lot of great aftermarket bulb manufactures for this sort of thing, I would be surprised if you had to pay over 100 bucks for it. My Mitsubishi TV blew its bulb and I expected to pay $300+ for it, and I found the bulb from a guy on Ebay for 80 bucks.

I would be honestly surprised if it helped reduce the Bass leakage. Bass is hard to supress without adding somthing STIFF or HEAVY. You could build "panels" of 2 layers of 3/4 MDF sandwiching a 2" layer of Styrofoam and reuse these year after year. This would be your best bet to blocking some of the bass, however, it can only go so far......

QFT, and agreement.

How long are these going to be available? I would like 2 sets for my car, any discount for a second pair?

Very clean, very tasteful!

My car, srt8 charger, 165. One of the mirrors folded in at 155 .

Yeah, wish i could up load pics on this forum .

It would probably be cheaper and easier to just install a real human.

Looks like a cool build, i look forward to following it. Where did you pick up your router? Mine recently burned up .

Very clean, nothing flashy, just tasteful.

Have you done any enclosures for cars, or just TH type stuff? Do you just do it for fun or do you resell your enclosures?

Very nice. I had 8 of these subs in my house, sounded great!

Since you mention 16 woofers, and wanting to isolate sound, ill give you my little two cents worth... In my experience and opinion you do not want to use a sound deadener that has a thermal acoustic principle behind its design(EX: Vibes to heat). This will rob you of your sound potential because its converting the sonic energy into heat. What you probably want to do is attempt to make the room as HEAVY and RIDGED as possible. What i did with my IB theater room was 2 layers for 3/4 MDF, a layer of acoustic board, and then drywall. This may be overkill for you, but the stiffer the wall, the less it will move, and the less energy it will rob. The heavier the wall, the more energy required to move through the wall, so even less sound leakage. JMHO.

For a subwoofer there is nothing wrong with using a Behringer. I used a ep2500 to drive 8 18" subs, i couldnt be happier. It will give you all the power you need, for as long as you need it.

Cliffnots for those who dont like to hear me blab: 2 12" RLP dual 2 ohm. Pre-built 3.3cuft box. (single cab silverado) To port, or not to port? If ported, will be 2x 4" ports, how long? Polyfill? SQ is the main concern, but spl should follow. Infinite power available. (almost) I suck at math. WinIsd hates me. My cat's breath smells like cat food ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I just put in my order for a pair of 12" rlp dual 2ohms. I have a couple questions regarding my enclosure... They will be installed in my silverado single cab. I already have an enclosure built, its size comes out to about 3.3 cu ft, which is pretty damn big for a truck like mine (ahhhh, the beauty of fiberglass). Now i am stuggling with the old age debate, to port, or not to port. Sound quality is my main concern, however, my reasoning for upgrading from my last subs, is because they just didnt have the output that I wanted (dayton HO RF 12's). As for power, I am almost embarrassed to say, I have a pair of hifonics 1500's available that I am probably going to run, so I am looking at about 1200 watts per sub. I know this is overkill, but i have pretty good self control over the gain knob. Ive plugged in the drivers specs into winisd several times, but i keep ending up with some jacked up numbers that just dont make any since. And when I add polyfill to the equation, things just get more confusing.... Also, due to the shape of the enclosure (wedge) I dont have the means to build a squar port, round is a must Thanks guys, any input would be greatly appriciated. I know im asking a lot. Ive been scrathing my head over this for some time now, and im expecting the drivers to be delivered pretty soon, I want to be prepaired when they get here. Thanks again, cant wait to hear som input!

got them, installed them, and they seem sweet Need more time though and need to reinforce my box, doesnt like to be sealed to much though.

What is soundsplinter's t/a like?

3.3 total is as big as its gonna get, this is a custom fiberglass box in a single cab silverado

f it, im goin sealed. Thanks for the input guys, ive never used a sealed setup before, however, ive also never ran a potent driver like this before either.

whoops, i mean 4.0 (2.0 per driver)