Lifted07Duramax

That brings up a good question. If I have the gain set at like 40% does that mean Im not even coming close to that 1200w?

Its a downfire box, no one is going to know what it LOOKS like. And I COULD run 2 mis matched subs. I only have 7.5 of depth so a DCON is out Im thinking Fi SSD Sorry I was thinking XCON, the dcon is the bottom line sub right? I dont know if 2 of them could handle the sundown 1200d v2

Well the box is built so each sub has its own chamber so I can run 1 sub for now but Id like to add a 2nd one for the time being. Then upgrade to 2 BLs for my bday in July Im impatient lol I know REs arent as good as they used to be, but if I can pick up an SEx for $160 shipped maybe I should just go with that and then sell it when Im ready for the BL? Unless any of you can think of another sub thats close to that price that I can snatch up

I listen to just about everything so it needs to be an all purpose sub. My budget? Id like to keep it $200 or less. Then in 6 months I can upgrade to say 2 BLs

A sundown SA12? DC lvl 3?

Honestly I cant figure out what I would even type in the search field to find something like this

What does he have in the normal subs screw holes? I would need to put something in the holes to keep air from escaping, but putting a ring on the outer side could work

Its a down fire box and the speaker cut out is like 1/4" too big. Its 11 1/4 and the subs I have right now wont screw in because they screw holes arent furhter out than 11 1/4 for some odd reason. This is a box for 2 12s Its a downfire box so if I were to put a plate on there and do a new cut out Id lose some clearance. Any other suggestions?

Who?

With leaving 1/2" pole vent clearance I can run a 7" deep sub Im in central california

Oh damn I am not that skilled at doing something with wood. Im more of a mechanical guy. For some reason I always sucked in wood shop lol I am not scrapping this box, Id rather buy subs with a wider mounting ring than scrap the box I just paid for. My subs are old anyways and I have been looking for an upgrade. When looking at sub specs and it says "cut out diameter" is that how much space the sub ring has? Or what measurement am I looking for so Ill know itll be large enough to be screwed in. Again its only 11 1/4"

How do you guys do it and still get the door sills back down? That wire is so thick I cant get the plastic sills to snap back in. Also for those of you running the amp behind the rear seat how big is the amp? I have a sundown 1200 v2 and Im starting to wonder if its too big to fit back there. I cut out the rubber to fit the amp in but Im wondering if when I put the seat back in if it wont fit. Id like to know before getting it all done.

A little different situation with our trucks. 1 run of 4 ga is about all you can fit here I checked out your thread and saw your battery is on the passenger side. I have dual batteries and Im using the driver side one, I wonder if it matters which battery I go off of?

Where does that power wire come in at? Also I have a duramax with dual batteries and my power wire is on the driverside running through the firewall as of right now

Ok Ill check out your build thread, I forgot about your thread. Does it show where you are running the power wire and where it comes back in the truck?

Do I fit the power and negative cables in and take my voltage meter to the speaker out lets? I cant remember I want to test it with the stock alt wire and ground and see if I can get more power from doing the Big 3. Im sure you will suggest to use it but I want to know how much a difference it made on my truck and post up the results. Mine is a 2500hd duramax so I know I have a higher amp Alt. Plus 2 batteries already

So when amp makers test their product they dont use just a normal voltage tester? Sorry if thats a retarded question, I dont know alot about the electrical side of most things lol

So I see AA is affiliated with fiaudio? Why not just have more sub lines at fi? Anyways whats the difference in these subs compared to fi? And what sub would you recommend that doesnt have a motor diamter of more than 6.75" and the over all depth of the sub not deeper than 7" And can handle a sundown 1200 v2. Looking for 2 12s

Hoping it to be central or northern california Also does anyone know out of all their lines which ones have motor widths of less than 6.75"?

Does anyone know what the motor width of the sundown 12" sub is? If theres a few 12" lines Im looking for one that is 6.75" in width if not less thanks

Hopefully you and M5 read this thread again. I got a PM from M5 and have another question If I should be giving 12s more air space why does it say for example RE and Fi subs specs that 1cu-1.5cu ft is optimal? If I ran my 2 12s in a box similiar to what I have now but only .6cu ft per sub, wouldnt 1cu ft atleast be a world of difference compared to what I was running? Im thinking of getting SA12s or Re SXXs if the motor will fit Since its a downfire I dont think I can do the plate and cut 10" holes without having to raise the sub box from the floor even more. Im limited on space in this truck and no a cut through is not an option

What type of subs are people using with the 2500+ amps? Like 4 12s?

Not sure of the measurements of the box yet UPS should be dropping it off tomorrow. Its sealed 1cu ft of air space per sub. How do I know what the tuning freuency is? Goals, I just want it to hit hard and sound clean. But I can not send this box back and do not want to sell it and take a loss. Im told by M5 that itll sound like shit but I dont understand why it will? I had basically the same box in my 07 crew cab gmc but only .6cu ft per sub and it sounded ok but not great

cant I had them make this one special for me. Its not just their standard box. So I guess thats my mistake for getting the box with 2 12s Now that Im in this hole I dug myself in whats my best bet? Theres got to be some descent 12s thatll fit that motor width spec

I guess I COULD always sand down the inside to make it fit alittle better