amatt85

i might ride up there...oh how i wish WF was held in louisville again, that was about 10minutes from me...

there facing up playing thru my rear deck maybe u could try like me and fire everything into the cabin, sealed off from the trunk. although that would leave u just a little room for a port. or u could fire subs forward sealed off from the trunk and port thru the rear deck, or mabye some sort of bandpass ported thru the rear deck...

ok..im suppose to be studying but im doing this instead. just thougt id share my build. its the second box i built and the first install ive done...consists of everything in my sig...here we go...

thanks guys!! i have thought about going in a bracing it..but i just havent had the time, and since its about to be the 'off season' i will probably just wait. and i have no idea if they can handle up to 1k on music. i know that tommy (ho problems) runs the se12's and has a one IA20.1 for every two subs, and he is running off 16volts i believe...so they can probably handle more (although i did see him blow a sub or two and smoke an amp at finals last year, which was awesome) oh yea..that score of 141.2 was in meca with the new mic location at the headrest.

thanks! i love these subs...i really dont think they get talked about enough, but they are some loud and clean sounding subs imo...like i said, im shootin for the mid 140s with them...which might actually make me a little competitive in S1 in meca... which way are the subs/port facing in ur car?

my box is huge for two 10's, probably about 1.5cubes to big, but i havent had a problem yet with this setup in like a year. the box is about 5cubes net, tuned to 30hz with two 4"aeros for daily. when i competed i didnt have time to make a square port, so i just used two 4"aeros tuned to 37hz and i peaked at 41 on the meter. i have heard from a few people that this car peaks around 50ish...so i plan on tuning my square port to around 47 and hopefully will peak a bit higher...if i get my fusing down i really think i can get into the mid 140s...

so on the meter (TL) i did a 143.8 at 33hz in the kick with the driver door open (meca style...which is the org. i would compete it). i did a 140.2 at 33hz sealed up on the dash like dbdrag. i went to one comp and did a 141.2 at 41hz...my score was still climbing but my fused popped...i still plan on making a larger port for burps and testing with some fuses...im really not a fan of that meca rule..but oh well....she gets loud and low, and still holds pretty damn good sq...

after a lot of filling and sanding... a little "shelf" type thing that goes right under my port so i can still slide it out, or else it would hit the "false floor" putting it back together... a before and after shot...

then did the same thing to the other side...

now for sealing it off from the trunk... first time dealing with fiberglass...it was a learning experience to say the least... first time dealing with fiberglass...it was a learning experience to say the least...

onto the box...

the electrical is definitly overkill...but now i have room to upgrade...

i think the exact opposite. i have 2 10" SEs tuned to like 30hz in my accord. i installed a 12" Q in a truck for my buddy with similar tuning...the one Q gets loud...but i would take the SQ of my SE's all day long over the Q. i guess its all subjective though... edit: sorry for the double post..his Q is a 12" not a 10"...i changed it while it was posting, thats why it posted twice.

i think the exact opposite. i have 2 10" SEs tuned to like 30hz in my accord. i installed a 10" Q in a truck for my buddy with similar tuning...the one Q gets loud...but i would take the SQ of my SE's all day long over the Q.

i know..old thread. but im new here and have been reading through a bunch of things... thought this would be useful...this guy it the best fiberglassers out there imo...a lot of useful things and he takes TONS of pics to walk u through it...hope it helps somebody. http://www.*****.com/board/ind...hp?showforum=67

i doubt it. is this the new thing now? ...there was a thread over at termpro about T3 coming out with something this size...whats goin on?

first question: What would be the smallest enclosure you all would reccommend for two fully loaded 18" BTLs seeing about 3500watts(rms)/sub, tuned to the low/mid 30s and mainly for daily driving (with maybe the occassional competition)? second question: i know on your site it says the btl comes in a 10" size, but i thought i remember some problems with it so you all quit making them as 10s. im basically wanting to know if u all still make a 10" BTL that is built for pure spl? thanks, andy mods: u can move this to the FI technical section if u want...didnt know where to put it.

i realize this is an old post, but....since polyfill creates an "illusion" of a bigger enclosure for the sub, would it change the tuning frequency of the enclosure as well. if ur port is say, 20" long without polyfill, then u add polyfill to make it seem bigger, would u then need to lengthen ur port to compensate for a seemingly larger enclosure?....

u shouldnt be draining that bad with 1300watt..make sure all ur grounds are solid...do the big three and see if that helps first

good point...1300watts doesnt really warrant too big an upgrade...

this would be kinda difficult and make it a PITA if u ever wanted to open up your hatch...lol...but assuming there is like a factory 'handle' on the window in question, it is probably held on with some screws. u could take the handle off, run a brace from like to box to where the screw holes are on the back window, and then secure with screws from the outside....just a though..maybe a stupid one...lol

get as big as an alt as u can do, that way there is always room to upgrade...but i would say at least 200amp or so alt. as for the fusing it kinda depends on the amps u have and the gauge of the wire that ur running: the smallest fues u would want to run would be the total amount of fusing that is on the amp (thats if it actually is fused at the amp), the largest fuse would depend on your power wire...if ur running 4 gauge then dont go any bigger than 125amp fuse, if ur running 1/0gauge then dont go any bigger than a 325amp fuse...i always run the largest fuse i can...

watts the rms of these? same as the old ones?

and how many watts should the spl version of the 10" btl be able to handle for a couple of seconds? i mean i know its probably kinda determined by the enclosure size...but in general....how many watts?