deathcloud

I used to always try to do what u did. The first time that it finally clicked in my brain was when I saw a chart and it broke it down. A sub can handle 750 rms BUT that doesn't mean you need to throw 600rms. I used to think OH I HAVE TO GIVE MY SUB 600 RMS OR IT WILL BREAK OMFGMZMOMZOGM. But then in my other phorum they said you can get the same output by throwing only 300rms to the same sub that can HANDLE 600rms. Point is, you don't need to always give the sub full power to get its full potential. I had a sub amp that put 600rms to my 600rms sub. Then I got a amp that gives 400rms to my 600rms sub. And I couldn't tell the difference. It actually sounded the same. Got as loud as the other amp. And the 400rms amp is less stressful on my electrical. Win/Win situation. The only way you can hurt your amp/sub is from clipping and of course over powering your sub for long amounts of time. Set your gains right and give your amp a steady voltage and you will be fine. Hope this helps. It may take some hammering in your head but overtime it will make sense.

This is why I hate this forum... cuz now i want to try all these suggested speakers haha. I want to do that kind of set up but I was thinking a SLS8 in my door for midbass, focals for midrange, and i really like seas alum tweeter. But this is all way to advanced. This just gives me hope and future ideas for my car to make it sound great. Anyways I can't wait to see your build or your friends build or whatever. A car pc sounds crazy. Good luck

I am running saz1000D and sax100.4 with big 3 done and stock 90 amp alt and have serious dimming. But that is a good alternator. But remember it doesn't put out 160 at idle probably. I would do the big 3, throw a kinetik in the rear and call it a day as far as electrical. Me on the other hand has to think about getting a HO alt

I work at best buy #1790. Great college job since my degree is business. Dunno where I want to work yet... thinking insurance cuz we ALWAYS need insurance lol

Wow guys... all I have to say is wow... i agree opinions are cool. Freedom of speech right? I know theres a lot of people who get offended or hurt because someone comes off like a d1ck. Well here is an easy way to avoid endless threads/e-thug fights over the internet. IGNORE IT. Brush your shoulders off. Don't take it so seriously. What you find funny may not be funny to others. So what. Thats life. However, im 23 yrs old and I found this to be funny. Hey it could just mean i have a different sense of humor. Don't take wat these other guys say so seriously. Just let it ride.

I agree. One little note is that with some amp manufacturers you have the option of getting the wired remote so that you can adjust the sound of the sub. Well usually you have to buy it separately but not with sundown. I was surprised to see it included! Hell yes! I've never done a remote before and can't wait to do it. Also I was surprised how well built these "tanks" as people like to put it. They are so heavy. The pics on the page can be deceiving especially on the sax100.4 MY MY I was surprised. Love the products. Always will recommend them to friends. Great power/output. A++++++

Thx for the info. I guess I can change my ground. Make my own like they did in the elemental designs video. But I like jaycees idea as well. Maybe when I get the money for 0/1 awg again I can try to run it from my battery to the rear. But I would rather just try grounding it first to not the seatbelt area. lol.

Well I was watching some vids of grounds. And most people do it on the seatbolt belt in the rear seats. Mine has been cleaned off and sanded down. But I did watch a video by elemental designs on where they did the ground. They took out the rear seats, then sanded down a spot in the frame, then took some screws and screwed down the 0/1 awg terminal into the frame. Thats it. I was thinking about doing this to see if it would make a difference. One thing that I did was do a little trouble shooting today. At my battery I am reading with the car at idle 14.3-14.4 then at the rear at the amps I read 14.1-14.2 so there is a drop just from my run to the rear? wtf Next thing I did was disconnect the saz-1000D, and just had the sax100.4 hooked up. The high pitched noise was gone. the alt whine i am guessing. Then when I hooked back up the saz-1000D and had both amps going it started making the noise again. So weird. I don't know what that could be. I checked my grounds and they are all secure. Even the engine to neg is good. strut tower to neg is good. I dunno. I am lost.

Let me google that for you ROFL that shit is funny. I could use that all day in this forum jk guys

where is the best way to ground in the trunk? And what is the best place to ground under the hood? I did the strut tower but i dunno if it is the best. I couldn't find my engine ground where the factory engine ground went to.

My saz 1000D is doing it too. I wonder what it could be. I will check my grounds as well and see what the issue is. I didn't touch my HU either so hopefully it isn't that ground cuz it would be a pain to get to it haha

not to thread hijack but now I am having this problem. It happened when I hooked up my sax100.4 The thing I am going to try is checking all my grounds ( I recently did the big 3 but I don't think my grounds are that good. The neg to chassis is tied into my strut tower. The neg to engine isn't necessarily attached to the engine) anyways I guess I will check my ground on my headunit and see if that is the problem. My ground in the trunk is attached to the seatbelt bolt. Is that a bad spot. I think Ive read that it is... maybe ill change that as well.

Please do a review of the two. Is there a huge noticable difference? Cuz I am on the boat of maybe upgrading to the xcon but if it isn't that big of a difference ill just stay. Cuz I love my icon. I have an icon 12 on a saz-1000D and I am interested if there is a huge gain of going to the xcon 12 inch. Or maybe I should go to the xcon 15 inch. Even though I don't know because that box would probably take up my whole trunk lol. Thats why I stuck with a 12.

Honestly I think you have just a small portion of what it takes. Yes it can be summed up as individually setting certain crossover frequencies to the designated drivers. But then you have to start looking at which point crossover point sounds best. Tweeter on/off axis (lets say by 15 to 30 degrees) because once you get a different driver/tweeter they are all different and putting them in the right set up and stuff can get confusing. I would just stick to doing component. Research for a year (no joke) and then maybe try active when you get a deck that is fully capable of running an active set up. I really want that eclipse I showed you. Sell the alpine get the eclipse! hahah

If you want great crossover capabilities and also a great headunit get this ECLIPSE CD/USB Multi-Source Tuner with Bluetooth wireless technology CD7200 mkII | Fujitsu Ten reading the whole website about the e-iserv looks amazing. making me want to change out my kenwood x592 for this baby. But I think you are on the right path. For now I plan on using my deck + amps crossovers to act as a "bandpass" function. For the front I plan on using my sax100.4 and turn my HPF to 2500hz for my tweeters SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1" Textile Dome Tweeter from Madisound then for my mids i plan on getting mach5 mli65s and thats when I will bandpass them and on my deck set the hpf at 80hz and on the amp set the LPF to 2500hz. This should be a pretty sweet set up for an active. All these ideas and ways to complete this project was found on researching here. This place rocks for information!

You were in the phoenixphorum and thats how I got set up to this forum. I feel bad cuz IM here 90 percent of the time now

Yea I don't use the bass boost. That was the first thing that I heard never to do. The funny thing is some people ask "then WHY DO THEY PUT BASS BOOST ON THE AMP!" and the usual response is because it is a marketing gimmick. If they didn't have it, normal consumers wouldn't buy it without it.

GYM TIME. THEN TAN. THEN LAUNDRY. GTL BABY.

Ok this is a continuation of another thread that was being hijacked. So I thought I would create it here. What? No way...... they ask u what drivers u have in the rear and u dont have any? Man thats hard to believe... but maybe thats cuz I am not properly sound deadened? I think that would make a huge difference. People usually say "hey are your rear speakers working?" cuz all the sound is coming from my front components. And there is nothing in the rear doors. I just want the people in the rear to hear as good as us in the front and I thought that wasn't possible without having some rear fill. But I dunno... If what you say is true, then I would be happy to not have anything in the rear doors lol. Saves me money. Saves me time.

just finshed big 3. Can I have some more money.... hahahhaa I worked so much but the money dwindles fast in car audio. I just wanna be done already and satisfied.

That isn't surround sound, but very confused stereo. ROFL

Ok well can you tell me what a "good battery" is? There are so many out there and I think I did the math right on saying the HC1400 will suffice. I dunno I could be wrong. 90 amp x 13.6 = 1224 watts saz-1000D + sax 100.4 = 1400 watts Total 2624 watts But I have a battery in the front Die Hard Gold series 550CCA So would I be ok with the hc1400 or would I need a bigger one for the rear?

Ok so I have a 2005 mazda 3. After putting in a saz-1000D and a JL 300/2 (just ordered my sax100.4 which will replace the JL), my electrical couldn't handle it. So I decided to do the big 3 as it is the cheapest route. Well I just finished. And I think there was an improvement but not like I thought it would be. Now when my bass hits my voltage drops from 14.4 to 13.8 sometimes 12.8. This is with the car on and idling. And my lights still dim but not that bad as it used to. My car has a 90 amp alt. Upgraded to big 3 now. So my next step is getting a kinetik or XS battery for the rear to see if this makes an improvement. After I do the battery in the rear I plan on doing a little ways down the road purchasing a H/O alt about 200 amps as I am not doing anything crazy as you can tell with my setup. ALL I want to see is on my DMM at the saz-1000D when the bass hits my voltage only go from 14.4 to 14.3 that would be so sweet. Hopefully I can attain this so that I can have all my amps last a long time!

You cant compare the two speakers at all, the Mach 5 Audio is a midbass speaker and thats it. The O2 Audio speaker is a midrange speaker and that is it, they are made for two different goals in mind. Oxygen Audio USA Power Neodymium Mid-Ranges: OM-605ND-4, OM-605ND PRO, OM-6906ND, OM-509ND, OM-609ND-4, OM-809ND-4 I have the first one on the picture at top. They do make a midbass speaker though, it doesnt get as low as the Mach 5 Audio. Ok I see well that makes sense I guess. Is this a dumb question what do people usually use to have a 2-way active system? midrange + tweeter or midbass + tweeter. Hopefully this is a good question for the thread. Those midranges o2s look so sexy. I want!

My bad I guess I wasn't clear. I have a 300/2 in right now but I have a sax100.4 coming. So I want to have my electrical system beefed up without spending an arm and a leg. Now the question I have is lets say I get a kinetik HC1400 battery for 180 shipped. Should I A) Save the money and just get a H/O alternator B) Get the 2nd battery because I don't have that much wattage (1500 total watts) Just wondering all of what I need. Without going overboard cuz I am a college student.