deathcloud

Wait a minute. Everyone says using a DMM is the smartest thing to do. Clipping is when your pushing the amp more than its capable right? Well when I do 60hz test tone is used. Then you put it 3/4 volume. U then do the formula to set the right wattage to the amps capabilities. So lets say you have a 1000 watt amp. Running at 2 ohms. You would do root (1000 x 2) and get 44.7 volts. So you would adjust the gain on the amp at 44 volts with the 60 hz tone at 3/4 volume. This would mean if you don't go past that 3/4 volume it won't go past the amps limit of 1000 watts. You are saying that isn't the safest way?

I am so getting this!!!! OMFOMOMFMOG COME ON XMAS MONEY AND B-DAY MONEY!

I think line drivers are just for eliminating noise from the systems electrical system. I know that I have a line driver that outputs 8 volts and my deck is 4 volt pre outs (even though u don't get nearly that). I then used my line driver to get the 8 volts at 3/4 volume via a DMM and now my gain is almost not turned up at all. So this means that my amp is not working that hard. Producing less heat. Giving it a longer lasting life. It is not clipping at all. I used to do it by ear but I wanted to make sure that my amp was set exactly right.

Just so I got it as well... again box ported tuned to 32 hz so 1/4 octave below is 32 x .25 = 8, then 32-8 is 24 hz is what my subsonic filter should be set at. That is cool that I have a nice round number to work with. Makes it easier. Good stuff guys.

Wow reading this thread I think increased my IQ a bit. Hahaha. Joking aside, I learned a hell of a lot. I usually just do the through on my headunit as well assuming that my amp will sound better due to it having 24 db slope. But I never thought that the subsonic filter was another highpass filter. This is good to know. I thought the subsonic filter cut out low frequencies that would harm the sub. I.E. lp crossover at 80 hz subsonic at 25 hz. I just learned recently that lets say my box is ported and tuned to 32hz that the subsonic filter should be set below the tune of my box? With all these tweaks and such (going from 24db slope to 48db slope) I am excited to start really tuning/tweaking my settings now.

It took me 2 years of working out. 5 days a week. Eating healthy everyday. Not to thread hijack or anything. But yea maybe ill get someone else to look at it but it was repaired by the company who built it... so I figured they would know what to do lol. I just really want this amp. Badly. My uncle owes me for my old sub, box, and amp. That should be around 200 bucks (and thats being extra nice with the price) so I just need 80 more which is very attainable. Then I can just throw away the other amp.

Man this is so hard. I am saving for this. I am getting money for xmas. but it is coming down to..... A)Clothes B)amp I know that sounds like a easy choice but I have went from 150lbs to 195lbs and outgrew all of my large shirts (except LRG I love those shirts) cuz i got into working out. So none of my shirts fit ne more. BUT I just got my icon 12 inch DVC 2-ohm sub in. (omfg this thing surprised the shit out of me) it is huge! And now I need something to power it. I have a phoenix gold xenon 1200.1 so it can do 1200rms at 4 ohms if I wire it in series. It does full power in 1-4 ohms. But I would do it for 4 ohms so it is less stress on the amp ect... However I have had this amp repaired 1 time already. And now it stopped working. I am ready to just smash it with a hammer. Or chance it again and get it fixed. However I have read so many good things about sundown amps (Like their rating at 12 volts) also build quality, reviews, and small footprint for what you get. xenon is huuuuge. I really want this SAE-1200D so bad. I am probably going to get it. And just have my gf get me clothes. LOL

Omg I wish I could hop on this... Do you still have any left over? I am in the same boat as the other guy. As soon as I get Christmas money it is on! It would be nice to have this for headroom for my icon. And would also be good for future installs. What a great low price as well. Hopefully some will pop up around xmas

Well that is going by what denim said. What do you think I should do? Like 35hz?

I am going to get my icon 12" soon. I am super excited. I can't wait. I have heard good things about it. But here is the important part that everyone stresses. THE BOX. If you can't fit the right size box, then you might not get the WoW factor. So after reading countless threads on box building and such, I am going to attempt to build my own with 2.25 cuft with the displacement of the woofer should put me at about 29hz Maybe 30 hz. But it is going to be ported. But yea man the box is pretty important.

The thing I think we are all getting at is peoples ears are all different. What one person may like will be different from others. What someone calls "loud" wont be loud to someone else. And if you go by what someone says and waste money on getting it, then by all means listen to what people say. But honestly I have been searching for awhile for some speakers to replace my phoenix gold components (which are actually great bang for the buck and handle 125rms) but the main two things I read are: 1. Go active. Research and accomplish this and you will get a great sounding front stage. 2. Go to a shop and listen to their selection of speakers and see what is "loud" but also clear. Not muddy. Not too high on the highs. Not too sharp but clear. Ive had people say their comps are the best as being loud and yes they were loud in a sense but the tweets were TOO harsh for my ears and weren't for me. So this is why I go to audio shops (usually high end) and listen to the different brands and see which ones are suitable for my liking and also loud. 3. 3-way setup but this is also kind of advanced and usually requires fabrication and such. Those are what I get out of this forum but also other forums as well. I guess it is just annoying to others because I have literally seen "which component" threads in the last 2-3 weeks almost pop up every week. So to people who have been long time members it may just start to get at you. But to each his own. Lets be civil. And lets get back to the passion of car audio. But yea check out the phoenix gold rsd65cs they are relatively cheap and sound great.

Yea and to make sure that you can set the crossover for your tweets either on the amp 2.5khz and up. or can do it on your deck as well somehow. That is the only problem that you need a deck with proper crossover settings and also the amp.

Yea but he has a 2 channel amp. Don't you need a 4-channel amp to wire it active? tweets on the front and mids on the rear channel?

I am a firm believer in having a great front stage. They make the world. That is why I have had so many because I am never satisfied. And I still haven't found one that has amazed me. But you get what you pay for IN SOME aspects. I have had alpine type-r, infinity, CDT audio, and now pg rsd65cs like what you had. I also had a tweeter blow and it kind of screws up everything. And I just ended up buying a new comp set. However I am reverting back to CDT audio because I miss the clarity, loudness, and people were always amazed at how loud it got. Running only 75rms to them before but now have an amp that can send 200rms to it but will set the gains for 125rms just to have enough headroom. So take a look at CDT I believe they have great stuff. And have been satisfied. Just my opinion. I really want to buy the HD series but 450 for them it is kind of a lot. I like reading about components and what is the best bang for the buck. So hopefully someone has some of those and can write about them in here.

Yes I used to be a pre fabbed box guy. Just buy a box from best buy and and just deal with the output from it. I always knew that I could get better sound from a ported box but just never gave the time or money to learn about doing it the right way. What he is trying to stress is that having the box built to the specs and tuned right will make or break your build. You could get it done and have a shit box and then have poor performance. But if you had someone else more experienced or professional do a box built to spec and tuned right, you can have the sub pounding so hard and also sound musically perfect as well. But if not then it could be poor on lows or highs and bad on mids ect... So again make sure that you know what you are going to do with your box and also know that a good box is going to cost around 200-300 bucks to build if you have a pro do it. I chose to do it myself cuz I want to have the satisfaction of doing it myself. If you have any questions feel free to ask or maybe do a search on this forum to see some examples or maybe what people did with the size of their box with that sub. You will find a great deal of info on it.

Looks nice man. Keep it up. Is it always good to have 4 awg power and then bigger ground (ie doing 0/1 awg for the grounds?) Just wondering... Other than that I need to do a sick amp rack and install it to look cool haha.

"First off please stop listening to your friend, he doest know what he is talking about. Usually one strong sub installed and powered right can blow multiple sub setups out the water. Its not about fitting the most speakers in your car, its about fitting a speaker or speakers in the enclosure they deserve which will yield great output in the long run. " Wow amen brother. That so makes sense. That is why I am trying to build a box to accommodate my sub perfectly in terms of size and also being tuned right via the port. I am sure that if you got 1 15 BTL you would be more than happy. Especially if you listen to everyone and get the amp that goes perfect with it. But also remember getting the enclosure perfectly matched with the driver is the other half of the battle. Honestly this box building is the thing that is getting me headaches. But I want to do it myself and I feel like I have been learning a lot along the process.

Wow rainbow and dls? That is a good combo. I have had alpine type-r components, infinity components, phoenix gold components, CDT components... Yes I tend to switch around alot LOL but I swear you listen to one and it sounds good for a little while and then you want more... then more... then MORE. LOUDER, CLEANER, SMOOTHER... Basically you get what you pay for. So pay for a good set so you don't end up switching as many times as I did. I should have just saved and bought some rainbow or DLS components in the 1st place. I have heard them and they sound amazing. However I like phoenix gold rsd65cs components. they sound great. Loud. Smooth. However I just can't get over how my CDT CL-65 would be so clean and clear with the volume cranked up. I did use a DMM with a 60 hz test tone to make sure that my speakers at 3/4 volume would not shoot over the 120rms rated speaker power. And it loved it. Wanted more power it seemed like. People were amazed at the clarity. If I had the money I would invest in the CDT HD series 6.5 compoents but for 450 it is a pretty penny. I just bought some more CDT EF series 6.5 comps and I can't wait to put them in with a JL audio 300/2 amp. Just my 2 cents.

Omfg I am amazed... I just ordered an icon 12 inch and I plan on doing 2.25 cu ft tuned to 29hz and then use my phoenix gold xenon 1200.1 to power it. But I will set the gain accordingly to give my sub exactly 1000rms. I can't wait. I am so excited to see how this sub performs WITH THE DESIRED RMS rating. OMFG I am excited. Plus this will be my first sub with a ported box and actually built to specs instead of pre fabb box. I am used to a sealed enclosure LOL. im hearing great things about this icon 12 sub. I am stoked...

Let me know what you do bro. I might look into getting those speakers. They look solid as a midbass in the fronts. I am interested to see what tweeters you find that will work with it. Then run your front active on your amp. Now that is advanced stuff. I am old fashioned and just use the passive crossovers LOL but I hear great things about doing active on a 4 channel amp. And just running the rears off of the rear deck power. I will be watching to see what you decide and then if the sound you get is amazing.

Ok awesome... This forum is great. Making everything a lot easier on me. Thanks guys. I really do appreciate the input. I am going to measure my trunk space and see what I am working with. Also see the gap of my trunk and get the box to fit I am really excited to get started on this.

So I only have bought pre fabbed boxes... Yes I know I am a lame person. The boxes are probably not to spec. And the boxes I usually get are cheap and are usually sealed. So I have been doing a lot of research and I think that the next box I want to BUILD is going to be a ported box. I know this scares me because of how hard it is going to be but I think I can handle it... If not it is a learning process. I am getting a Icon 12 dual 2ohm sub. My uncle who lives here does flooring and has tools/experience with wood working and stuff. Also what he does have experience with is fiberglassing and also doing carbon fiber in the hull inside his jet ski to make it stronger. I was watching some videos of building fiber glassed boxes and it doesn't look that hard well the videos do make it seem easy. I know it may take time and experience but I want to attempt this. So help me out guys who have had experience... The box I want to build is 2.25 cu ft. I want it tuned to 29 hz. Can someone give me dimensions of the box and also the port? Here are some specs of the sub to help out for the box specs. Fs 29.9 Qms 5.87 Qes .45 Qts .42 Mms 212 g Sd 480 cm^2 Vas 43.7 l Bl 16.4 Spl 86.0 1W/1m Xmax 20.5mm Wattage: 1000RMS Displacement: 0.16cuft If someone could help me that would be great. I kind of just want a box that has the sub facing up to the trunk. And the slot on the bottom facing up to the trunk as well. I hope this makes sense... Thanks guys. I ordered my 12inch Icon sub I am super happy but want this box to be perfect for the sub. I am used to bass from 1 alpine type-r 12 inch sub. And all my friends think the alpine type-r subs are the best... well I am ready to blow them away with the icon as far as SQ and also with my box build...

Yea people usually look for a H/U that has good RCA pre outs. Good call on the eclipse... they usually make around 8 volts on their pre outs. Which then you don't need a line driver usually. Also look at the EQ that you get with the deck. However if I had the money, I would go for a denon with burr brown 24 bit D/A converter so sexy and so clean. Professional.

damn it.... I am so bad at this... How would I lower the frequency to like 28hz... Basically what is the way to lower the tuned frequency when building a box. Maybe if I knew then I could do that to my box.

Thanks for the welcome... btw I am from Roseville. Moved to Florida for school. Small world haha..