tysonm

So far all the subwoofers I have had were, two 10" Memphis Power References (250 rms each), two 10" Pioneer Premiers (400 rms each), single 12" Cadence TX12 (450 rms i think), and now I have a single 12" RD Alpha V.2 (1500 rms). The 12" hit lows a lot better than the 10's, but the dual 10's seem to give off a more bass and everyone that heard my subs say that with my memphis' they could hear me way down the road where all my other woofers you couldn't. I don't know if that necessarily means that the memphis were the loudest, but anyways I just wanted to get some opinions on subs. Here is what I'm looking for, right now I have stock electrical so the RD Alpha can really make my lights dim if I have the bass turned up (right now it's on -9) it's in a 2.3 cu. box tuned at 33hz, I will probably keep my Cadence ZRS-8 amp which does 750rms @ 2 ohm, 1500rms @ 1 ohm. I want two 12" subs that are either SQ or """SQL""", I know some don't believe there to be """SQL""" and there are some that do, but I just want something that can take up to 1500-2000 rms. I listen to a wide variety of music, rap, alternative, rock, screamo, techno, and some heavy metal. I like ported boxes the best and want subs that will get good and loud and still sound clean. If you need anymore info to make me let me know. Here are a few video's of my previous setups: Two 10" Premiers: Cadence TX12 single 12": RD Alpha V.2 single 12":

I don't see an "Edit" button for my last post or else I would have posted this question there, but anyways, if I want to run dual 12" subs to get a 1 ohm load (since my amp is 1500 rms @ 1ohm), wouldn't I need to get D2 subs?

The current box I have is 28"L x 14.5" W x 14.75"H The way my trunk is designed is kinda weird so these measurements I think would be the best to let you know what TOTAL space I have and this would take up most of my trunk. These measurements are for a wider/shorter (height wise) box: 43.5"L x 27.5"W x 15"H

I guess this should have been the first thing I posted so you guys know what type of room I have to work with. I will get these measurements today.

How much room would the box for two 12" Icons take up though? Some of the box's they have them in on Youtube are HUGE! haha, I would want them to BUMP! but how much room would a good box take up?

Sorry I totally forgot to put my budget. I would like to spend maybe around $250 per sub. I am aware of the clipping issue, but for the video I turned it up to 62 just to let people see what it was capable of, other than that though I never turned it up that high.

I have a Pioneer AVH-P3200BT and was hoping to get some input from everyone on three specific things. 1. The mic for the Bluetooth isn't that great everyone I've talked to with it, say that I sound "far away" and I want to know if anyone knows of any mic's that can pick up your voice easily so the person you're talking to can easily hear you? 2. What would be a great backup camera that I could get for this unit? 3. Will this Ipod cable work the same as the Pioneer cable ? I want to be able to watch videos off of my Ipod onto the HU, but I'm not sure if the Ipod cable will do this, I noticed that the Pioneer version of this cable looks a lot thicker so I didn't know if there was a reason for it being thicker or not?

Anyone?

The link I posted would be a lot cheaper than the cdiu50v and it has the same aux/usb end, but the wires on the cdiu50v look a little thicker, shouldn't they work the same though?

I have the Pioneer AVH-p3200bt, so it has the Aux in and USB on the front. I want to be able to play videos on the HU from the Ipod. Is this the cable I will need? Ipod Cable

So I have a Poineer 3200bt, Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75" speakers/tweets on a Pioneer GM-9500F amp, 12" RD Alpha V.2 powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 (1500rms). I have 1/0 gauge from my battery then it runs into a distributor with two 4 gauge leads coming out to the amps. 12 gauge from my 9500F to the speakers/tweets. I had the cadence amp and sub in my previous car ('98 accord coupe) and my lights would dim a little with the volume high. In my 2011 mazda 3 I sedan. I have my volume at 24 and the lights dim on every bass note, and I was on the freeway last night got my rpm's at 3k and at 26 my lights were still dimming. The bass on the HU is set to -4 and I can turn my speakers (with subwoofer off) up to 35 with no distortion and it gets hella loud with no dimming. So I want to know if I could just add in an extra battery in the trunk if this would fix my dimming? I don't want to have to keep turning my bass down when I turn my volume up. Plus I want to get a video of the setup so everyone can see it The first day I got the entire install complete I had the bass on the HU at -4 with my volume at 36 and the sub was shaking the hell out of my car, but I know it was killing my alternator so I want to get this problem fixed without having to upgrade my alternator.

K, thank you very much everyone for the help!

haha that's my bad, he did say aluminum, I don't know why I typed nickel. Anyways, would it still be better to use my 1/0 gauge instead of the stock electrical wiring?

Would it help using my 1/0 gauge wire for the big 3? A guy at an audio shop picked up my wire and said that it is really light and then brushed finger at the end of the 1/0 gauge and said that it wasn't 100% copper, that it has nickel in it, which I could see the silver in the wire. This would still be better than what I have for my stock electrical wouldn't it? I'm assuming I have maybe 4 gauge at the biggest for my stock electrical wiring.

I agree with you Mkader, that is the way I was going to do it instead of using a relay, lol. So I thought I had everything figured out on running my wires to my speakers but I was horribly wrong because of that plastic piece and I couldn't get it out and I didn't want to break it and didn't want to have to take my door off either, so I took my car into an audio shop and the first shop was just outrageously over priced so I took my car to another shop and they quoted me $300 to install the speakers, tweeters, one amp for the speakers, and another for my subwoofer with a lifetime warranty on there work as long as I own the car. They said that it would take around 5 hours just to be safe, so it could take less. Do you guys think it's a pretty good deal?

Where is the best place to buy Knukonceptz 1/0 gauge wire for the cheapest price? And I also need suggestions on the best place to run my wire in my 2011 mazda 3. Right now I have Knukonceptz 1/0 gauge and the only place I could wire it was under my center console then I came out the side (driver side) and under my seat, and I don't know how to get it into the trunk of my car with it being un noticed, how can I hide it going through the back seat area into the trunk?

Anyone?

If you look at Post #28, it has the pic of the rubber boot and at the right end you can see there is a white plastic piece (or see link for better pic Plastic Piece ) This white plastic piece is flush with the metal which I have it pulled out just a little in the pic on the link. How am I supposed to run my speaker wire past the white plastic piece if it is this tight of a fit?

That is what I was thinking about doing in the first place, use a coat hanger and fish them through, but that white plastic piece is air tight so there is no way I will be able to get my wires to go behind it and being able to put the plastic piece back into its place after the speaker wires are ran into the door. Or do you just leave the white plastic piece hang out of it's "hole" I guess is what you would call it?

Sorry to keep asking "how do I do this" questions. Since this is my first time doing an install like this I have no idea what to do. I think I have all my wiring setup correctly and I was trying to get my speakers wired today, but realized I don't know how to get my speaker wire into my door since there isn't any holes on it where I could run my wires from under the door seals into the door without the door smashing the wire when I close to door. Here is a link to what my door area looks like http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz7/tysonmccrary/?action=view&current=DSC04247.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs808.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz7%2Ftysonmccrary%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC04246.jpg

Yeah that makes sense! Thanks everyone! I think I can finally get this install finished this week once I get time. Will post pictures of the finished setup once I get it all done. Thanks again everyone!!

Can you provide a diagram on how you run multiple amps. I currently have RCA's, a remote, and 1/0 gauge running to the trunk, based on the diagram you showed I should be able to put a relay there and power the amp. However, it seems though that the relay will be a point of weakness 1/0 gauge runs into it, but I don't know what gauge the circuitry is, so if it can handle the power draw or not. If this isn't a point of concern, do I just run a power wire from the relay to each amp for multiple amps?

Yeah that makes sense, thanks!

Can you provide a diagram on how you run multiple amps. I currently have RCA's, a remote, and 1/0 gauge running to the trunk, based on the diagram you showed I should be able to put a relay there and power the amp. However, it seems though that the relay will be a point of weakness 1/0 gauge runs into it, but I don't know what gauge the circuitry is, so if it can handle the power draw or not. If this isn't a point of concern, do I just run a power wire from the relay to each amp for multiple amps?

http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz7/tysonmccrary/?action=view&current=DSC04184.jpg I also wanted to hook this up so I can watch my voltages to see if I will be needing either another battery or a new alternator if my voltage's are low. How do I hook this up? run my subwoofer power wire into it and splice the wire into my remote wire as well?