waltham415

I would agree with everyone here that ported would be best, but if your set on your enclosure, the FI SSD 10's call for .6-1cuft and after the subs dispacement it sould leave you at .98cuft or something like that. Those subs should give you good volume if you amp them right. just an idea.

yeah, the front stage is going to be another mission all together. I have seen it doen with some custom made kickpannels holding the components along with some 3.5in speakers up in the dash but i have no experience with fiberglass and wouldnt know where to start. i have yet to look if i can get anythin online, thats my plan over the next few days. As for the ratteling, this bug is in such bad shape at the moment that im able to get to every inch of body so i plan on dynomatting all of the floor, doors, and the back near the engine, im hoping that will help keep it quiet.

Alright, So having passed all this to my friend he has desided to go with a 15in Fi SSD equipted with the BP Power and flatwound coil options, allowing him a little extra money to get an amp to replace his old jensen. We are going to place it in a 4cuft ported box tuned to (hopefully) 32hz. Does anyone have any box design ideas? im not sure of the exact dimensions of his cherokee but any designs within reason should fit easily. thanks again

One takes more power, if you dont have the room to run an 18" subwoofer then it will be a waste of money and should just stick with the 15" of either model you get. well its going in the back of a jeep cherokee so room shouldnt be an issue. but if there are no big advantages to an 18in sub ill probably stick with the 15in BL

Thanks for the quick responces. the general vote seems to lean towards the Fi BL which looks like a great sub. As recomended, i looked into the Fi SSD series and found that the 18in SSD is within the price range also. what would be the advantages/disadvantages of each sub (15in Bl or 18in SSD) being that they cost the same?

alright, thanks. kicker's subs have never really impressed me, im a SQ guy, but i figured i would throw it in because everyone talks of how loud they are. so has anyone delt with Fi, how much of a pain is it to order from them?

Wow, thats a cool program you have, and that box looks relativly easy to build also. being that its tuned just how i want it and i think it will be able to slide into my trunk, i think ill build it like that. Thanks for the help everyone

So i have decided to build a custom box for my 2 10in type-s alpine subs. I found an equation on JL audio's website to tune a box and have been playing with numbers for about an hour now. Everything looks good to me i just want to have someone double-check to make sure im not screwing things up. The outside dimensions of the box are 11.5X31.5X20.5in. Using 3/4in mdf that would leave me with 5700 cub inches inside to work with. there will be a single vent, 10in tall and 1in wide, going in 5.5 inches. after subtracting the volume of the 2 boards used to create the vent and the 2 subs( 86.4cu in each), ill be left with roughly 5444cu in of internal volume. with the equation i found that would leave the box tuned to 32.5 hz. .5 hz off of my goal Does that sound about right? the main reason im worried is that i thought the longer the vent, the lower the tuning, so a 5.5in vent seems really short to me. i dont know.... any comments are appreciated as i really want to get this right. Also... does anyone think i will need bracing for these subs? im running 500wrms between the two, so not too much power, but just to be safe?

Sorry for the delayed responce. so i have plenty more room in my trunk, mainly in depth and height, not so much in width though(too much bigger though and im not sure ill be able to get it inside my trunk). the driver displacement was, according to the sight, .050 cu ft. So by the sounds of it i am way off on just about everything so any help i can get would be appreciated, like i said i would like the box tuned to about 30-32hz and could care less about how much space it takes up in my trunk. any ideas, dimensions, formulas, ect would be cool. thanks Just as a reminder im running 2 10in alpine type-s subs ran at 2 ohms with about 250wrms being ran into each by an alpine mrp-m500(not sure if it matters)

Hey everyone, So ive desided to build my first sub box and am pretty much lost. I have 2 10" Alpine type-s subs being powered by a MRP-M500 alpine mono-block. At the moment i have them in a pre-fabbed folded horn box and just want an upgrade. On the Alpine site, they list the"optimum" vented box's stats which are tuned to about 36hz, which sounds good to me. So..... Would it work if i built 2 seperate boxes that share a single wall seperating the two? If i did that would I run one vent for each side and keep all the stats for each box to alpine's site? Ok, this question is confusing me just thinking about it so if it doesnt make any sence, ignore it... my rear deck has three speaker holes, two 5X7 and a 6X9 in between the two. could i build a box where the two speakers would be facing each other, in a v shaped area within the box, with a vent from this area into the 6X9 speaker hole, then there would be an area on each side of this v(where the magnets are) and have those vents( one for each side) ran through the 5X7 openings so that all of the pressure from the subs would be transfered into the cabin? If this makes any sence, would it sound desent? would it be louder but still have the same clearness? basically, would it be worth the effort to build something this complex or would it be just as good to leave all three of those speaker openings open and just let the trunk breath into the cabin? Wow, ok the main question was that first one, so please answer that one first, the second is simply a dream box that would be fun as hell to build. Any comments appreciated, thanks....

Well the sub is only responisve down to 30 Hz, would i want to tune the box down that low?

Ok, ill take your word for it, plus i think it would be good experience. so if i listen to alot of rock/metal (anything from linkin park to all that remains) and care more for sound quality than volume, what would you recomend i tune the box to?

So how about a bandpass box, any opinions there? the only reason im avoiding the single chamber, ported design is that that is what my currant pre-fabbed box is and the demensions for the new one would only be a slight difference and im not sure if a few inches here and there would be a big enough difference to justify the money and work in building a new one.

Yeah, pretty much my thoughts also, unless it would make a big difference volume wise, its not worth the extra work and money. i am probably going to stick with the one box/2 chambers design then. Would this setup sound any different then a having both subs in a single chamber?

After doing a little reaserch and a unexpected blow to my savings, I think that I am going to go with a set of Alpine type-R components in my mercury sable. a store i went to was askin 250 for the set not including install or anything, I found them online for about 150, and i can do the install myself. my question is,"are these speakers good enough to run a front stage setup?" I would rather not have any rear speakers in the back deck, alowing my subs to breath into the cabin, but im not sure if the alpine components,(powered about 60 watts RMS into each,) can hold thier own... any thoughts?

sorry i think i worded that wrong. in my price range and out of the ones i have listened to, i like the sound of the type-r's the best, but will they sound as full by themselves, without any rear speakers? (where i listened to them had both front and rear speakeers going in there sound booth thing)

Hey, everyone. On www.sonicelectronix.com, i have found a pair of Alpine Type-X reference series component speakers that, including dynomat and baffles, will run me about 200 dollars out the door. These speakers are running 300 dollars for just the speakers on Alpine's site. The only problem is there is no shops around that have these speakers available to listen to.... What are your opinions on this speaker and would you have any other recomendations (perferably costing less money?). At the moment i am running stock 5X7's in both the doors and the rear deck so anything will be an improvement. I want something with a high quality sound and i've heard good about Alpine. i'll take any advise you can give. Thanks

Here is the situation, I am looking into buying some 100wrms component speakers. I found this amp (Alpine MRH-F255) in my friends trunk and he said I could have it. After searching the internet i found out that it is running 35X4rms along with a subwoofer channel. Does anyone know how I would go about bridging this amp into a 2 channel (if its even possible). This amp is running a wire harness for its speaker outputs and so I have absolutely no idea on how I would bridge it... And if I cant bridge it, would 35 watts sound better than just the head unit to power the speakers (most likely Alpine spr-17s or sps-600c)? My second question is if i do deside to use the amp, I know i would have to buy a seperate wiring kit, but would I use the same remote wire that I use for my mono channel amp and just split it? Im new at this and am still not entirely sure what the remote even does. Thanks for any help

Alright, good to know. and the speakers im getting are 4ohm so it'll be fine. alright, this is going to sound stupid but most amps that i have seen are labled channel 1,2,3 and so on, you bridge them from chn1+ to 2- and 3+ to 4- this amp uses only left and right for the front channels and left and right for the rears... so would i bridge the front left + with the front right - and same with the rear or, front left + to rear left - and same with the right side....... or does it even matter

Ok, i thought trying it could maybe damage something if it wasnt suppose to. Ill definately give it a shot then.

Yeah, and i dont even think my deck will run 22rms. Well ill keep scouring the internet to see if that amp is bridgable or not. if i could run it at 70rmsX2 that would be perfect since i dont plan on running any rear speakers.

Oh yeah, didnt think of that. I guess 35wrms would still be better than whatever the headunit would be running.

Im pretty sure it is but since I couldnt find any info on the amp, I choose not to comment since I dont know. Yeah, I spent like 20 minutes just to find how many watts it was runnin, let alone what all i could do with it. Alright, i guess ill have to find some money to pick up an amp. I dont think 35wrms will do the speakers justice. Thanks

Alright, thanks, that makes sense. do you have any ideas on whether the amp is bridgable or not?

Alright, all makes sence. i guess ill just have to keep researching, that just opened a whole new set of possibilities. thanks for all the input