Oak244

I have a Eclipse CD-8053 which I bought for the SQ level it has. I LOVE it and do not want to give it up. Any idea if there is a way to get Sirius Radio to play through the deck? I live in an area North of Dayton OH. All the Radio Stations point there sat's South towards Cinci... Therefore my reception just sucks. I listen to the Radio when I am in Dayton, but listen to CD's when home, because my SQ system really brings out the Hiss's and Pops! Any help for me??

I am not sure, I am waiting for them to arive still. I am going to do one of the following amp combos... US Amps USA-600x US Amps USA-300x (or 1000x) US Amps USA-300x Bridged Or US Amps USA-400x US Amps USA-600x US Amps USA-300x Bridged Basically I still need to buy one more amp. I have a Chrome USA-300x on the way, and a Chrome USA-600x on the way. I am still looking for the last amp which will either be another Chrome 300x, or a Chrome 400x. Whichever I find will determine which amp goes on what speakers. Lastly I need a geat adjustable Crossover to work with my Eclipse CD Players crossover to make the whole thing work. I have been told to use a Coustic XM6, but would be interested in other options if anyone has any. These links might help... http://www.usamps.com/old_site/products/inv/usa-400.htm http://www.usamps.com/old_site/technical/p...s_manual_99.pdf

Ok, I just got a long e-mail from the guy I bought my USA-600x from. He asked what my system was like, so I told him, and he claims I have way too much power! He quarentee's me that the USA-300x I plan to put on my sub (SI D2Mag 12") will blow the sub for sure, and that the 600x will murder my CDT ES520 set! This is his quote... "You should get a 200X new style 7" chassis to drive your 520 europoops, a 400X to drive 4 of your 8's and a 600X to drive 2 of your 12" woofarts" "I had guys ask me how come a 200 watts US Amps keeps blowing 1000 watts woofers. I told them the 1000 watts woofer was actually 100.0 watts RMS (US Amps watts) the decimal point is missing that's why. One USA-1000X has enough power to drive the crap out of 4 of them 12" woofers, or 2 of them 12's and 4 of them 8's all at the same time." So what ya think???

Anyone around Dayton OH know how to change the Big 3 on a car? I do not see how to do it, but maybe someone who knows what they are doing could help me. PM me if you can! There is a Fuse box right off the Positive Terminal that throws me off right away. Then the wire to the Alternator seems to be wired under a plastic cover around the engine. I assume if I do the big 3, all that gets removed from the car? Here are two pics of the Fuse box I am speaking of... http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b...4/Battery01.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b...4/Battery02.jpg And here is a Pic of the Alternator, where it apears the power wire goes up inton that hard plastic cover that then wraps around the engine. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b...4/Battery03.jpg Is it normal for you all to have to tear the engine apart to change the big 3? All my wires apear to be wrapped in black plastic which is connected to other wires along the way. Like from the Battery terminal you see with the Fuse box, the wire goes straight down then "Y"s off and another wire connects to it, as it gets lost under the engine.

Oh so Under GOOD 1 and 2 are two independent solutions for good bass response? I read them as Step 1 and Step 2. So it really means, either place the sub in the rear corner, or options 2, plce the enclosure with the sub facing the rear of the car.

Could the Engine Ground Stock wire be as small as an 8 awg wire or less? There is one wire I can easily see on the side of the engine, comming out of some black wrap running with other wires, that connects to a bolt on the side front fender of the car. This is a ground for something, just do not know if its the right one or not.

I do not know for sure. I do know I can get a 180 amp Alternator for $295 shipped if I need.

Funny I have been waiting a week with this sub for the US Amp to arive. I guess I should take my MTX sub out and cut up that box to make it a 1.5 box instead of 4.4 and wire it up! lol Bummer is all I have is a Puch 100 DSM on my fronts which is not very loud. At least not what I am used to. I have a USA-600x on the way as well to run my CDT's!

Well something came to mind after looking at the SI's box recomendations. I am a SQ guy so the 1.5 cu ft box sealed sounds best to me. At 1.5 cu ft, that is almost 1/3rd of the size of the box that is currently in my car! I have a 4.4 cu ft box for a single MTX sub now. Anyway, The system I am replacing is the first single sub stereo I ever made. Needless to say, I only bought 1 SI Mag12" to replace it. However I am wondering now, should I consider a second sub? I will be running a US Amps USA-300x Rated at 900 watts at 4 Ohms at 12 Volts. Can this amp power 2 of these is some way? This dual 2 ohm voice coil stuff is kinda new to me. I am used to old school SVC 4 ohm subs lol. The front stage will be CDT Es520's with 150 watts and CDT EF8's with 300 Watts

Ahh that sounds like a logical answer lol

CDT EF8's With SI Mag 12 Side of Mag 12

lol Funny... I do not mind spending the extra $30 if it means it does something to save my future trouble. And under the car huh?? Whats that wire used for? I mean why does an engine block need a ground wire? I will probably use matching 0 awg for the fun of it. I have 17 Feet of Blue 0 Awg comming. May not need all of it, and could use some to do this project.

My Pick was Eclipse. I own the CD-8053 and its the best sounding CD player I have ever known, and the internal X-over, DSP, and EQ among other features make it above awesome!

Oops read the Big 3 Post at the top of the page. Now its much clearer, except #2. Where do I look for the Engine Block Ground? And should I use 4 awg or 0 awg? I am using 0 awg from the Battery to the amps. Lastly, A fuse must go between the Alternator and the Positive post of the Battery correct? How do I know what size fuse to get? Thanks!

I recomend the best CDT line of speakers you can afford! I have the ES Eurosports and love them. Killer Midbass, which makes most like them better then DLS. Plus they have a cool upstage kit you can add to place your soundstage at the windshiel level instead of sounding like its comming from the floor.

If you want I can check with my dad on a paint color for you. A guy he knew who worked for a paint company tried 100's of paint colors looking for the one which gave the truest picture color when applied directly to the wall. It looks great! If Interested I will ask him what the name of the color was.

Can anyone clarify. In the Part 2 of the Good section, am I reading this right? The speaker cone should be facing the rear of the car? Or does the cone face forward? If it is to face the back of the car from the corner, I do not see how this could be done.

Oh this sub would run with say 500 Watts? I am still waiting for my US Amp to arive but I have a Soundstream Reference 500 I could put on this sub to test it out.

Ok, I just got a long e-mail from the guy I bought my USA-600x from. He asked what my system was like, so I told him, and he claims I have way too much power! He quarentee's me that the USA-300x I plan to put on my sub will blow the sub for sure, and that the 600x will murder my CDT ES520 set! This is his quote... "You should get a 200X new style 7" chassis to drive your 520 europoops, a 400X to drive 4 of your 8's and a 600X to drive 2 of your 12" woofarts" "I had guys ask me how come a 200 watts US Amps keeps blowing 1000 watts woofers. I told them the 1000 watts woofer was actually 100.0 watts RMS (US Amps watts) the decimal point is missing that's why. One USA-1000X has enough power to drive the crap out of 4 of them 12" woofers, or 2 of them 12's and 4 of them 8's all at the same time." My System plans are... CDT ES520's (150 RMS) Power by a USA-600x CDT EF8's (300 RMS) Power by a USA-300x Stereo Integrity D2 Mag 12" Power by USA-300x Bridged So what ya think???

I was told to use a 1.5 cu ft sealed box with my 12" and using a US Amps USA-300x bridged 4 ohms

Yes Thanks, I know Flakko quite well, and he has been very helpful in my decision to change to US Amps. I look forward to trying them out! One question now... I drive a 1991 Geo Prizm, really its a 1991 Toyota Corolla. The Prizm is just a clone of the Corolla with different Tail Lights and badging, but open the engine or buy any parts for this car, and you always buy Toyota parts.. Anyway, Initially I will be running the USA600x at a 4 Ohm load and the USA-300x at a Bridged 4 ohm load. Once I get the kick pannels done, another 300x or 1000x will be installed to run my 8" midbass. How will the electrical system handle this? Am I going to have to upgrade it for sure? And if so what should I do? I looked at trying the Big 3 upgrade, but have no idea how to do it with this car. To start, right at the positive post at the battery there is a Fuse box with 3 Fuses, then the wire comes out from under it. Then it drops somewhere under the engine and I loose it. What do you all think? I know some amps run on less battery power but since I have never used US amps I do not know how these are. Thanks

Ok Thanks! I asked him if he had any experience with the stuff in my car, as it sounds like the people he is talking about were using Audiobahn kind of equipment! lol I do not think the CDT Eurosport line is a crappy line of speakers either. In Fact I know from experience they love power! The more you give them the better they sound! I was running them with a Xtant x604 and they sounded pretty good, but I always knew they could take more... I sold that for the Money to buy the USA-600x so right now I have a old school Rockford Fosgate Punch 100 DSM and oh its not even close to enough power to make these sing. I so look forward to the 600x powering these! lol

According to my 1995 Car audio Buyers Guide the VL-200 has a Mosfet Poer supply, 1 ohm stable design, 520 Watts Bridged into 2 Ohms. 4 Ohm rating us 100 x 2. THD .009, SN 112 Thats the most Info I can get for ya.

I am a new owner of a SI D2 Mag 12" Version 2 subwoofer. I need help with a box. This sub will play 65Hz and down and will be powered by a US Amps 900Watt at 12 volts amp. My car runs at 14.6 Volts. The rest of my system will be this. CDT ES520's in the kicks 150 Watts. CDT EF8's for midbass on the doors 300 Watts. The ES's will play 250 Hz and up. The EF8's will play 65Hz to 250 Hz. The SI sub will play 65 and down. Everything will be powered by US Amps. I am a SQ guy, so at first I would say I am looking for a SQ sub box design. However I have to ask , if I have 8's up front doing the midbass, and the SI sub is only doing 65Hz and down, will SQ even matter? If it does then by all means I am looking for the best SQ box possible. If not, then just any killer box will do! If you can help me THANKS!!