pat656

i have a volt meter and a friend who is an electrical engineer, ill look at it tomorrow thanks for the help

ok thanks, now time to go shopping!!

that was my thought exactly, i mean the alt was 6 years old but the car was checked over by a professional car audio installer and it was fine and like i said it has 4ga wire to top it all off my friend has a 2000W system in his 3series (with same battery) and he has no dimming at all Getting your car checked by a supposedly professional car audio installer means nothing nowadays especially if it deals with electrical or voltage problems, take your car to someone who knows or specializes in electrical work (be smart about how you take care of your car especially if you want it to last long). How about you get a volt meter so you can watch your voltage (Im pretty sure there is more in your car than that if its dimming, what other car audio equipment do you have in there?). Buy a digital multi meter and test amp and battery, with car on and car off. I hope when your sitting idle, you turn your system down. Do you play your system with car off alot? this guy is the best in my area and highly recommended, and happens to be a family friend, and i get it checked by the guy who works on my car i will play around with the meter, since i dont have a built in volt meter in my car and i never play it with my car off, i have seen too many of my friend's batteries die because of that well its just the stock HU, speakers (replaced but still stock specs) and stock amp i do rum 55W HIDs, but this was happening before i added those i just added the subs, no other audio equipment

Ok couple of things: that fusion amp WILL NOT give you 3000 watts not even on its best of days. if it has 4x40 amp fuses. that 160amps. to figure out wattage out OHMS LAW-- voltage x amperage. let's figure a good voltage of 14.5 -- 14.5 x 160 amps= 2320 watts total. seeing how your probably won't get 14.5 volts constant. it wll be even lower. the run from the front battery to the back battery should be fused twice, one as close to the front battery and the second as close to the back battery as you can. second if you can get zero gauge into the amp.DO IT! Third. You have to do the big three in all zero gauge if possible Fourth. NO ISOLATOR!. in my experience they add resistance and they are not needed unless you plan on bumping while the car is off and you want to spare your starter battery and i wouldn't suggest that. ok thanks i know it wont run 3000W, i just said that so people know which one i am talking about i am working on the big three now the amp will barely hold 4 gauge wire, so do i need to run 1/0 to an adapter?

that was my thought exactly, i mean the alt was 6 years old but the car was checked over by a professional car audio installer and it was fine and like i said it has 4ga wire to top it all off my friend has a 2000W system in his 3series (with same battery) and he has no dimming at all

120 amp i think, at least thats what it says on bavauto.com

thats how i blew my alt i had the air radio subs windshield wipers on full and all lights on and it died its brand new battery and alt everything is grounded correctly and i even did a battery ground on the batt to chassis wire the battery is really big but i dont know the size without taking it out Patrick

so what about the kinetiks?

ok cool so what size fuse do i need

A Kinetik HC1400 or 1800, anything battery with around 80AH. just curious, how did you figure out which one i needed, what calculation or specs did you look at

Sorry I didn't specify...my original question didn't need it ok so I'm gonna have a fusion 3000w amp and an fi bl12 dual 2 ohm sub I have stock hu and no other amps besides the stock one

yea i realized that part # was for the 16v what size do i need though

so like the hc16v? Are you running a 16 volt system with that battery? Kinetiks are great but what is your budget for another battery? Deka 9A31 is a great batt at a good price. I think the batt would be ok next to the box. Its not the box vibrating anyway. The driver makes everything else around the box vibrate. no standard 12 volt ( i guess....14 with alt.) i just need a second battery b/c everything dims, even my headlights

actually i dont think you all understand what im saying i dont know anybody with a n fi sub, i just heard how good they are i know a lot of people with stuff like sony and bad alpine, so yes i do want it to sound better, and probably anything will i spent a lot of money making my 15" box thats why i want to keep it i dont think i know everything, i actually know i dont know everything and i have found that out with other projects ive had thats why i came here asking which 15" sub i should get

i know how to use it, i have setup many for friends and i have had my rockfords for over 2 years without problems (i started driving at 15 b/c of SC law) thats why i want an fi sub and not another fusion

ok i dont care if everyone thinks my box is too small or how i blew my last one i just want to know which FI sub to buy, well actually what options on the BL should i get

I think you need to learn how to set your amps settings before getting purchasing another subwoofer just to damage it. What do you mean you want a new sub you can recone (thats ridiculous, just a waste of money). Save this somewhere on your computer for future reference so you dont keep pucking up equipment: Head Unit Settings Bass Boost/Exend = Off Loud/Loundness = Off Sub Level: + whatever yours goes up to minus a few whatever your preference Bass = 0 or lower, whatever your preference Amp Settings Gain = Set with DMM (with a 50Hz test tone and at subs rms or amps rms whichever is lower), no more than 50-60% if you dont have one. LPF = 100Hz or lower whatever your preference Bass Boost = Off SSF = 1-5 Hz lower than box tuning, or until subs start to reach its excursion level. all the amp settings were fine, i know how to set that, i just accidentally wired it as a 1 ohm instead of 2 i cant set my hu bc its a stock one and i dont want to replace it (i will look really bad in a bmw) i had those settings on my amp though, i actually made sure it wasnt all the way up bc i didnt want to blow it, ironic i know

ported but the only thing that fits in my car, i built it to exact dimensions of my car Then you shouldn't be running a 15". A single 12" in the proper box would out perform a 15" in a chocked box. i got a really good deal on the 15, actually less than the 12 so i got it, i know a bunch of people at my school with them and they sounded really really good so i got one

ported but the only thing that fits in my car, i built it to exact dimensions of my car

thata the whole thing i dont want to blow it, i wasted a lot of money bc the guy told me the wrong way to wire it i want to recone so i wont have to buy a new speaker my car vibrates with a 300W 12" system, i get use to it, i have put $100+ of wholesale priced dynamat in it i dont want the btl but prob the bl just with what options the box is 20x20x14, about 3.1 cuft is what the guy said who gave me the design Patrick

so like the hc16v?