Iced2

Thanks ,, I might pull out the box and do some changes to the subs and box soon so then I'll take some pics. Here are some vide's A vid with the old set up on only one amp

The reason why i ask is i currently have 4 RE SE 15" running off of a T40001bd,, they sound great but im only hitting a 148.3 with them so since i want to brake into the 150's I want to get a second T40001bd and some stronger subs,, thing is i like the way these SE's sound so Im trying to get something strong but that can sound atleast as nice as these SE's..

Sorry i just really dont see what you mean. fact is i dont know much about how is a sub is built so thats why i asked, if it cant be done then cool I'll move on to an other plan. i would say its more like asking the dealer what can be done with the car before i drive it off the lot. Personally to me it wouldnt matter what sub it is thats why i worte what im trying to get which is a nice soundsing sub that can take 2500 watts. Ask yourself this...do you need to run that much power or is there any reason that you should need to run that much power? Or should you probably follow what is suggested and recommended...so let's look at a scenario. You purchase a car..from a dealer. They assume the following: A) You can read as you probably read the gas mileage, warranty information, etc. B) They do not care if you can read or not...you signed and/or clicked the "I agree to the terms and conditions" without even reading them..so if you do manage to break it it is your fault because you did not read the warranty that you signed away that you read. If you do blow the car up the manufacturer/dealer is completely off the hook due to your signature. You purchased a car to go 70mph on the interstate in 5th gear to cruise daily for 300,000 miles..because it should be known that is why there is a 5th gear to travel at that speed. Or you can buy the very same car, attempt to take it 70mph on the interstate in 1st gear at 6500rpm depending on gearing of course..and you might make it 3 miles before the engine grenades. The dealer did not say that you couldn't do that..but it is recommended that you do not. Resulting in the 'abuse' clause in the warranty..because you abused it. Any idiot knows that you can't drive down the interstate in 1st gear and expect a car to last...speakers being mechanical devices are simply no different then the car. Case in point..you don't need that kind of power. Nor should you run a car in 1st gear down the interstate...if you want it to last anyhow. WOW Alright this Topic is getting a little out of hand, just to clear it up I was asking if a Q can be BUILT to handle that kind of power like a Quad coil deal , thats it really never said anything out just running one off the self. Now that i see it cant then cool I'll look into other options its no big deal . Which is why I explained the scenario more in depth..and why it can not be done because it isn't designed to do that. If you only need to run 1000 watts..1200 at most...why do you feel the need to run more power? If you feel the need to run gobs of power a Q is not for you...which has been said. Speakers (specifically subwoofers) are at most 1% efficient in converting watts electric into watts acoustic..so the other 99% of the energy that you are putting into that coil is burned off as you guessed it..heat. Which is why cooling technology is so important. But all the cooling and machining inside of the motor can only do so much to keep the coil from failing thermally.. Like i said ,, It cant be done which is cool no big deal I'll move on to somthing else its all good...

Thats not really what i want for my truck ,, I like it tuned down low I don't think you understood my post. Build two different boxes, or else use interchangeable ports. That way you can tune it higher for comps, then back down low for everyday driving. I know what your saying but I want to hit 150 tuned down to blow 35 hz, Im even hoping when i up the power i can hit 150's tuned even lower, I built the truck for music so to me thats where i have fun with it. Ive seen the trucks at the shows hit 150 ,155 at like 52hz but its just not the same.

Thanks I put weather stripping like whts used in car doors around the tunnel that goes from the cab to the bed then the way the box is build at an angle where the wheel wells are , they put that 300lb box to squezz it tight.

I personally feel like you could be doing a 150 with your current setup, you just need to re-do your box first. What size enclosure and tuning do you have for those subs? Wow a 2500rms Q, haha now thats hilarious. The set-up right now is 14sq tuned to about 35 hz. , Just in case your wondering what its all in heres a link http://www.****/board/index.php?showtopic=41835&st=0&p=592103entry592103 I guess the site didnt like links from other forums so i copied my build on to here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?/topic/31778-08-dodge-ram-2500-mega-diesel/page__gopid__559138entry559138

Out with the old, In with the new Well at least they look cool at night,

Doors done.. Laying out the wireing,, Laying in the amps.. Damn there is alot of wires. More of the box painted in bed liner All installed now... Well I was all done, this was back in Feb around the 12th, had to bust two 24 hour days on it straight to finish in time for my road trip and I over looked a seal in the blow through, just my luck it rained like crazy in cali right when i was out there and both 2000x's fryed just flooded in water. since i was close to US AMPS I took them in to see what they can do for me. One couldnt be saved so since then i fixed the leak and have been running on one 2000x wired to 8 ohm's . i looked for an other one to replace the one i lost but no luck. Plus the two 600x's wired down to 2ohms were ok but not really running 100% running threw the cross over it wasnt working right so, I had to star looking into some new stuff... this is what i came up with 2 JBL 1004's 1 RF T40001bd . [

Starting to cut this Truck up Damn cutting a new 2008 gotta hurt alittle.. Now time to strat cutting up the front Door Panels Laying things out Start working on the Bed.... Laying out the Box Ports im useing, 4 6" aero ports, there just the eazyest to tune and change if i want to These things are Huge.. Laying in the the Sub's so i can drill the holes This is how it looks in the bed Box done.

Thats not really what i want for my truck ,, I like it tuned down low Its not an all out SQ set-up I know my truck isnt going to win any SQ comp.. I just want a good sounding sub that will take alot of power . and its 8 JBL GTi C608GTi Two sets in each door running off 2 JBL 4 channel 600watts

Sorry i just really dont see what you mean. fact is i dont know much about how is a sub is built so thats why i asked, if it cant be done then cool I'll move on to an other plan. i would say its more like asking the dealer what can be done with the car before i drive it off the lot. Personally to me it wouldnt matter what sub it is thats why i worte what im trying to get which is a nice soundsing sub that can take 2500 watts. Ask yourself this...do you need to run that much power or is there any reason that you should need to run that much power? Or should you probably follow what is suggested and recommended...so let's look at a scenario. You purchase a car..from a dealer. They assume the following: A) You can read as you probably read the gas mileage, warranty information, etc. B) They do not care if you can read or not...you signed and/or clicked the "I agree to the terms and conditions" without even reading them..so if you do manage to break it it is your fault because you did not read the warranty that you signed away that you read. If you do blow the car up the manufacturer/dealer is completely off the hook due to your signature. You purchased a car to go 70mph on the interstate in 5th gear to cruise daily for 300,000 miles..because it should be known that is why there is a 5th gear to travel at that speed. Or you can buy the very same car, attempt to take it 70mph on the interstate in 1st gear at 6500rpm depending on gearing of course..and you might make it 3 miles before the engine grenades. The dealer did not say that you couldn't do that..but it is recommended that you do not. Resulting in the 'abuse' clause in the warranty..because you abused it. Any idiot knows that you can't drive down the interstate in 1st gear and expect a car to last...speakers being mechanical devices are simply no different then the car. Case in point..you don't need that kind of power. Nor should you run a car in 1st gear down the interstate...if you want it to last anyhow. WOW Alright this Topic is getting a little out of hand, just to clear it up I was asking if a Q can be BUILT to handle that kind of power like a Quad coil deal , thats it really never said anything out just running one off the self. Now that i see it cant then cool I'll look into other options its no big deal .

I personally feel like you could be doing a 150 with your current setup, you just need to re-do your box first. What size enclosure and tuning do you have for those subs? Wow a 2500rms Q, haha now thats hilarious. The set-up right now is 14sq tuned to about 35 hz. , Just in case your wondering what its all in heres a link http://www.****/board/index.php?showtopic=41835&st=0&p=592103entry592103

Sorry i just really dont see what you mean. fact is i dont know much about how is a sub is built so thats why i asked, if it cant be done then cool I'll move on to an other plan. i would say its more like asking the dealer what can be done with the car before i drive it off the lot. Personally to me it wouldnt matter what sub it is thats why i worte what im trying to get which is a nice soundsing sub that can take 2500 watts.

I just got a 4000X and i was wondering if anyone has tested to see what type of power this thing is putting out. One thing i wasn't expecting, its smaller then my 2000X, hope thats not a sign that im going to be disapointed in its performence Any info you guys got on this amp would help Thanks,

Bummer, well i learned a good expencive lesson on that one At least you have a limited edition amp.... we have a guy running one here daily with no problems, that little thing's a damn beast. I'm not going to say he beats on it constantly though. 2 guys here still use them in competition, in NSPL classes, because last year the fuse rating had to be 150 or less, and it has a 120 amp fuse rating. Guy with one of them hit 148.xx yesterday on 2 12's, and could have been a bit louder, but they couldn't get his cd player to quit skipping. During testing, the 4000x was .7 louder than a DD M3 well thats alittle bit of good news, i guess I'll just run it untill i get an other 2000X and team it up with the one i got to replace the 4000X, damn but those 2000X's are getting hard to find. Thanks for all the input guys.

Bummer, well i learned a good expencive lesson on that one

It says I do not have permission to use this feature when I click on it, any idea what im doing wrong?

Well i hope it an take daily pounding, thats what i got it for. Im going to run 4 RE SE 15's. Thanks for your input it gives me a better idea of what this amp is all about. Does anyone know where i can find the specs on this amp? i went to the old US Amps site and nothing..

The Motor is the best way to tell, like the other guy said it could have been reconed.

2x!!! i would be into that! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> 3X buying the mids/highs is always that hardest part of building a system for me. Those clean sounding mids/highs with that strong midbass is a hard compo to find.....

Oh trust me i know were not going to see those old prices on the RE stuff. All im saying is if they were making money off $160 and you imagen the profit at $405....

I got my SE's from RE new for $160. Can you imagen how much there making off the same sub trying to sell it for $405....plus i dont know about paying $3000 for the AX2000HC, I was hopeing on getting one in July maybe Aug ..but not at that price.

If i have 2 pairs of passive x overs, tweeters and woofers running off of two amps, would going active running 4 woofers and 4 tweeters and the same two amps be as loud?? Cus the way im seeing this active thing working is that when its playing music one amp is always off since its switching high to mid

there two, two channel amps. what im asking is having two 300wrms amps if i run two sets of mids and highs with passive crossovers when you play lets say 150Hz those four woofers get 600wrms VS. a Active set-up useing those same two amps at 150hz those woofers would only get 300Wrms right? Im asking this because i was thinking of going Active but was worried it might not be as loud as with passive X-overs

Thanks for all the info, and Im going all active to. If you dont mind me asking what are u running?