slim142

Ah man! I wish I had the money for a 125.2 I want it so I can power 4 Alpine Type X components Hope sale comes back soon!!!

Sent you guys an email like a month ago, never got an answer. My email slim142 at h.o.t.m.a.i.l Was asking an approximate for a box for a single 12" ported tuned to 32hz and shipping cost to 33160

I didnt know that you are suppose to set your subsonic within 5Hz of the box tuning. So no matter what sub you have, and no matter if the specifications say sub handles 20hz-150Hz, you never set your amplifier to 20Hz?

Dont want to steal the thread but When you want more Bass, its better to go for more cone area than more RMS? Considering we are talking about Fi and their line of subwoofer only. Considering same size, 2 SSDs would be better than 1 BTL even when the BTL has more RMS?

Ingloriouts Basterds sucked so much. I hated that movie. Wanted to fall asleep, long, and just bad. Liked like 5 mins out of the entire 2:45

Ok so Back again I have a story to tell and I need recommendation ASAP. So I have my subsonic on what looks to be 20Hz on my 2000D (half is 25Hz so a bit less), so I decided to see how good can my subwoofer handle the low note on Put On by Jeezy. For my surprise.... As soon as I played the song (from a normalized volume CD with 75% volume) the very begining has this low frequency that made my sub make this super strange noise! Im going to try to describe those 2 seconds of HORROR because I thought I could have killed my sub in just seconds. I had my bass remote up. Started playing song. Sub started going up and down like crazy but this time it sounded as if the cone wanted to just launch to the roof and separate from the spider and this sound that came out of INSIDE the sub was.... imagine a huge piece of plastic (or thick paper) bending as a parabola up and down. I hope Im giving a clear idea of the sound. Now, I did bring up my subsonic even more this time. Its almost on half right now. But Im pretty sure my gain has to be decreased a notch too. I just want to know, is this song really suppose to make your sub make weird noises or movements? I know is hard to explain without a video, but I really wouldnt like to record it playing this song at least for now.

Well first sorry for making a somewhat new thread, I thought it wasnt reasonable to keep my questions going on the Fi Technical zone. Maybe I can get more help here I have a problem which Im trying to solve. Basically, Im trying to set my gains right, however, I dont have DMM or O-Scope so I have to do it by ear. Pioneer TS-W3002D4 @ 2ohms 1k RMS 12" Sundown 2000D @ 2ohms 1k RMS Rockford Fosgate 4-gauge kit Factory HU using RCA with Line Output Converter. Stock amp, no Big 3 No Bass Boost on Amp. No Bass Boost on Headunit. Everything Flat.

Does having anything thicker than 1/0 gauge really gives a noticeable improvement? Is it worth going 2/0 or 3/0? Where do you get this thicker power/ground cables?

Hey guys Sorry Ive been kinda busy and didnt really have time to make a video of the sub. Will definitely try to make it tomorrow and hopefully show you my set up. On the other side I have one question. My ford expedition came with a factory 8inch sub (which is where my 2000D is getting the signal from with a LOC) and it is located above the rear-left wheel. My question is, should I unplug the factory 8inch sub and just play the 12" pioneer? I have seen threads where people wanted to mix 12s with 15s and 10s and the answer was NEVER DO IT. I would like to know if I should unplug my 8inch sub. I havent disconnected it since its factory, I didnt think it would affect my system sound, but just want to hear some feedback from you guys. The 8inch is nowhere near my 12 and is mostly covered by my tools and materials that I have in the trunk.

Hi It just got to my head that I should probably get rid of the box I have and make one myself. The one I have was bought from a shop and I dont even know what it is tuned to or the cubic foot. From the outter measurements, Im calculating 1.75-1.80 cubic foot. Here are the measurements of the current box I have my Pioneer TS-W3002D4 Well, basically I want my own box so that I know the exact tuning and size. First, I would like to know if its good to have a 12" tunned to 32Hz since thats what I want to have my box tuned at. 32Hz with ~1.80cubic foot AFTER subwoofer displacement. I would prefer to have subwoofer AND port facing the same way and box measurements ~15-16inches the width, length and height. I will put the audio connection in the opposite side of the sub. Going a little bigger could help but unfortunately I dont have the space right now, but Im pretty sure 1.80 after displacement is more than enough for a single 12" right? Also, what materials/tools do I need? 3/4 MDF, the audio connection, screw driver. Thats basically what I know is a must.

I see, thats was clearly explained. I thought the term bigger the better applied just to everything. I guess I will stick to 1.25 to keep it to recommended manufacturer spec. This will be my practice test so I know how the process works so when I order my BTL im enclosure ready by the time it comes

May I ask what are some facts when it comes to building your own enclosures? Things that you MUST do regardless. Also, I want to use 45 angles on the corners. Does it improve things a lot? Finally, should I use double thickness for everything? Just the front (sub+port) side? or no double thickness at all?

Oooh ok, well then in that case I guess 1.25 is what I should follow since thats what Pioneer recommends for the TS-W3002D4 in a ported box. The tuning, you can have it at any frequency you want right? There is no "perfect" tuning for subs.

Hey thanks for that info At the beginning when I didnt know much about car audio, I thought that following manufacturer recommended enclosures was right. Then I starting reading a lot of people saying that the bigger the box, the better so I kinda disregarded what Pioneer recommends. Why is it better to follow the manufacturers recommendation in this case? Cause Pioneer recommends 1.25 for my sub and thats exactly what you have yours on. Doesnt the "the bigger the box the better" term apply in my case? if so, why?

Cmon bro! measure it so we know how much you hitting! loll I would say 160dbs but, thats just an estimate.

Ok like many others, I just jizzed here. 10/10 when it comes to products, quality, detail, work, and finish product. This is just KICK-ASS and even that doesnt describe how AMAZING, GLORIOUS, and INCREDIBLE this build is. I think the guy from the Tahoe just got the 1st place taken away. Some questions though Can we please have some numbers? I would REALLY like to know what you hitting with that car. ~160db should I say? Also, how come only 2 alternators? Car limitation or you feel good with only 2? Sundown 2000D would have been great there, but those S-2000D still look and seem to perform great.

Im pretty sure most people here will agree that LPF on 80Hz is ideal, but at the end it depends on taste.

I have pushed my 12 to the max and Im still not bass-satisfied.

Ok yes I think it will be better to take a video with some songs playing. But I can tell Ive almost got my gain right, Im starting to have more control over my sub.

Dam would love mids and highs. Im thinking about getting Alpine Type X but those are getting old and what better than Sundown for everything?

May I please know whats the difference? Technically, 10 Hz If you used 60 Hz. you would end up setting the gain too high. Haha, I think the technical part is pretty easy to get at first sight Ok then, will look for that user with the free sines again and download his rar package to get the 50Hz.

Hi First, Im glad to be part of this community. Ive been reading a couple of threads and I can tell there is a lot of people who know what they are talking about (from what I know). I recently joined a couple of forums but none of them were really helpful. I hope you guys can help me out!. So Im saving up for a FULL (all options and cooling) 18" BTL. From what I been reading, it looks like I will definitely need at least 2000watts RMS amplifier and an extra battery. Just to know, will the BTL run without an extra battery? In other words, with just the stock? Thats the sub. Now, for the amplifier, I was thinking about the Hifonics BXi 2010D. However, I just found out a lot of people mention Sundown as their preferred brand. I personally havent really heard much about them. What are your opinions on this brand? Specifically the 1500D and 2000D? The 1500D would be affordable in my case, I would love to go for the 2000D but thats a little high. We will see... Now, for battery I decided to go for the XS Power 3100 (Since S-M-D has like 10 of those, I thought they were the BEST when it came to choose a battery for your audio system). But I recently read that the Kinetiks HC2600 is actually the best one when it comes to power your audio system? Can somebody please explain to me why would Steve use XS and not the Kinetiks? Anything wrong with them? After knowing what Amp and Batt to get, now I need to know about the enclosure. Fi recommends 3.0 to 5.0 cubic feet for the 18" BTL. I have some questions regarding this. Will the 18" sound good if it is on exactly 3.0? How much loudness do you gain when comparing 5.0 to 3.0? If I put it in less, is there any way I can damage the subwoofer? Im currently in the process of getting a car and I was about to get a Toyota Corolla S (Sports), but now that I have plans to put a good audio system, I think a Corolla will be waaaaay too small for a BTL. In fact, somebody told me it would fit in the trunk (true or not?), but that because of space, it wouldnt sound as good. Now, Im starting to drops plan for the corolla and go for a Crossover. The reason why I dont go full size SUV is because they use too much gas and I cant afford to spend that much gas on a car which 90% of the time I will be driving myself (to go to my university). I think a crossover does the job. Trunk of most crossovers (Edge, Murano, Venza) are big enough (correct me if Im wrong) for 2 18" BTLs pointing up. The rest is just replacing the speakers and tweeters. Now moving on to one of the most important factors (from what I read). The alternator. Now, I have almost no knowledge about them because Im not into cars and I just recently found out that I might need to change it too. If I do, I wouldnt mind because I read it is one of the most important parts and I dont want to be left with no power in the middle of the road or with dimming lights. So, whats a good alternator? I think $300 sounds reasonable since thats how much a new battery (DC2600 or XS 3100) cost. I believe I have to pick a certain model for my specific car right? How many amps for the alternator (MINIMUM) for (2) 18" BTLs? (I say 2 because I want to be ready when I add a second BTL) Whats a good place to buy them, any specific brand? I know its a pretty long read, but I want to make sure I make 0 mistakes. I currently have a system and I got really pissed off when I found out I could have gotten something MUCH better. Im really dissapointed at my system and I decided that I was going to read and ask A LOT before spending another dollar when it came to audio system. I hope I get the help I need from this community! Looking forward for your comments! Thanks Slim142

May I please know whats the difference?

Does a 60Hz sine count? or does it have to be a song? I was planning on doing it old school. Burn a CD with JUST the 60Hz sine 0db with volume normalization (dont think it will apply since its only one song, but just for sakes ill enable it) and have it play so I set my GAIN to what I think its a notch below the stress point.

Hmmm thats where I had my ideas wrong. I thought there was such thing as "Perfect Gain Setting". Guess I was wrong.