slim142

Thanks for the input guys. Will definitely keep an eye on it and will notify of anything before anythings happens

Well saturday night I decide to go out and put some music. I noticed my 2000D blue light no longer turns on (the one on the amplifier). Sub works so amp still working. What could have happened? Why? and Should I worry about it?

I dont know my voltage reading. No electrical upgrades at all. Just using 4 gauge. Amplifier is under passenger sit. I dont remember it getting hot at all before. And Jacob told me 4 gauge was fine for 1k rms with no electrical updates. Im not worried right now. But will keep an eye to see if it gets any worse. So far everything is fine no cuts or dimm lights or anything.

Thanks Jacob Btw, Im using my 2000D in 2ohms 1000watts RMS. Even tho Im not using the full 2000watts RMS, is it still normal that it gets hot? I was still able to leave my hand on top of it tho...

^ LMAO

Basically just want to have an idea of how loud should I be able to get with this setup. 1 Fi BTL 18 Fully-equipped @ 1ohm 1 Sundown 3500D @ 1ohm Big 3 1 XS D3100 battery (under the hood, main one) Alpine 9887 HU Maybe 225amp alternator Zero gauge everywhere. Enclosure around 5-7 cubic ft tuned to 30Hz

Here is my opinion, please correct me if Im wrong. His box is tuned to 32Hz. That subsonic filter is set to ~50% which seems to be 20Hz (a little less maybe since it points towards the left), isnt he wasting a lof of power by not having his subsonic within 5Hz of his box tuning?

I have some questions, hope I can get help. Where can I buy 2/0 AWG wire? Whats a good brand? model? Does 2/0 gauge really make a difference over Zero (1/0) gauge? Is anything thicker (3/0, 4/0) than 2/0 overkill and waste of space? Thanks

So there is absolutely no need to have 2/0 from batt to amps. If you do, is just to brag about it.

Ok so basically, 2/0 AWG and copper ring terminal from weldingsupply.com whenever it comes to power/ground cables for the amps. I thought about Knu Koncepts, but it sucks they dont have 2/0 AWG.

+5 for bass, wow. Your music must sound really muddy

From what I learned in this forums. When setting your gain, right before you do it, you set your music the way you want it to sound. So for example, if you want treble +3 and bass boost +1, set that first, then set your gain. The reason why you dont do it after is because you could have your gain right, but then you decide to go bass boost +2, you are going to clip your signal almost instantly and cause damage. By setting your bass boost/treble first and then your gain, you are making sure that the bass boost is not going to cause any clipping, of course, your gain might have to be set a little lower since you are boosting the bass from the headunit already. One tip: you shouldnt really use bass boost. Components/coaxials are not "cool" with low frequencies <100, so many people here would suggest you leave your bass boost alone.

Why cant u live in the east coast!!!

What will happen the day we can reach earthquake levels LOL

Thanks a lot sir.

hey dvalue, your post kinda scared me. The highest i have been exposed to has been 2 15inch L7s, so that means if I get into the Tahoe someday, I will experience nausea and chest pain? lol

Might try that later. Good idea.

Well thats cheaper. How was your experience with that company and how good was the cable?

Dam lowest note is 27Hz. So with a box tuned to 30Hz, set your SSF to 25Hz and thats more than enough to hit that note and enjoy that song to the max.

Ok I pmed him. Also fixed my subsonic in my 2000D just a couple hours ago. Something new to learn every day

Ok checked Welding Supply and found even 4/0 gauge. Thats good to know. So the company that makes this wires is Welding Cables which I suppose are the owners of the website? The reason Im asking this is because I plan on having someday (hopefully soon lol) a setup with 2 18s full BTLs. With two 2500D or maybe 3500Ds. I thought about 2/0 because if I go for the 3500Ds, its going to be a lot of power and I dont want power flow to have any restrictions/problems getting from one point to another.

Is that Sundown Amplifier I see in the floor a special edition one I havent heard about yet or an old model? Never seen such heatsink design before.

idk what my box is tuned for thats why I want to change it Im just not in the situation to do so right now. I bought it from an audio shop, and from what I remember the guy said it was optimized for Kicker CVRs (which is what I had before in that box). I want a ported box to 32Hz, hopefully it will happen soon someday. Right now my Sundown SSF is set close to 25Hz (almost the middle), but I think I will move that a little higher since I just found out thanks to this thread that <25hz is a no-no specially with a box god knows what it is tuned to. Also, doesnt the low note peak on 25Hz on that song from Jeezy "Put On"?

Well I have my LPF at around 80Hz so thats good. Now about the subsonic, I thought 20Hz was good since its the lowest a person can hear, but recently I have experienced cases where the sub would seem to look like its trying to jump off the box lol and got kinda scare since burn smell came out. So subsonic shouldnt be set at anything below 25hz. I have meet some people that say they play let say 10Hz just to "feel it" . This could be considered something stupid to say and do because you are damaging the subwoofer at an incredible level for just doing that right? In other words, is there any purpose on playing anything below 25-30Hz? Whether it is for SQ or SPL?

How exactly do you do power test and some solid abuse testing? Im just curious